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First oil change - best oil to use?

This is a discussion on First oil change - best oil to use? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; P.P. 10w30 with a k&n filter end of story That pdf file is BS.. sarge explained it on another thread... ...

  1. #41
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    P.P. 10w30 with a k&n filter

    end of story

    That pdf file is BS.. sarge explained it on another thread... said bleach would show the same results...anyway...







    till something better comes out ..as sarge says.

  2. #42
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpfranks View Post
    gm recommends the ls1's run mobil 1. mobil is fantastic oil. personaly i think its one of the best. if you wanna go top of line, i would recommend ams oil, but thats only available through dealers and maybe the internet. how many miles are on your car? and if youre worried about leaks, thats usually only a problem on high mileage cars. obviously thats due to worn gaskets, not the type of oil. synthetic is thinner because it more refined and lubricates better, however on high mileage cars its easier for the oil to seep out of the gaskets. which is why high mileage oil is the exact opposite of synthetic. your car will run the exact same on regular 49 cent oil, the only real difference is how long the interior of you engine will last. but basiacally any name brand sythetic will be fine.
    You base "Mobil1 is the best" statements on what? Synthetic is not thinner...it utilizes the exact same viscosity rating as conventional. High mileage oil is exactly the opposite of synthetic...WTF does that mean....High Mileage oils utilize GRPII/III base stocks and PAO add packs just like synthetics and Conventional.....HM oils utilize seal conditioners and additional cleaning agents in their add packs....that is the only difference....Lord help me with folks on the internet spewing bullshit.............

  3. #43
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpfranks View Post
    what is UOA's?

    and why would you run 10w-30 when it calls for 5w-30? there is basically no difference but still. the only reason to run 10w is if its in cold climates cuz its more of an all season oil.
    Damn son! 10-30 has less viscosity enhancers thus more shear stable than a 5-30. 10-30 is good to go for like -50f. Where do you live? The North Pole?

  4. #44
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpfranks View Post
    that people werent getting the "performance boosts" Royal purple said. and that the oil looked very gunked up after oil changes, not to mention the price. but thats just what the guy at summit racing said, ive never used it myself.
    You can tell nothing from looking at an oil. Many uninformed say my oil looks black so it must be shot....nope....TBN test will tell you how much active TBN you got left....many add packs turn black as tar after 500 miles...looking at an oil doesnt tell you shit. UOA's reflect Royal Purple shearing out of weight and shitty wear metal analysis.....that is the reason RP gets shitty reviews in LSX motors ( and many others).....not because what it looked like to some invisible "person" who through a third party you "heard"....

  5. #45
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SINISTER-TA View Post
    Mobile 1
    Mobile is a town in Alabama.
    Mobil is an oil company.
    If you are using Mobil1 then you are paying top dollar for a mid pack oil.
    My statement is based on hundreds of UOA's.

  6. #46
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandomOmen View Post
    http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

    Look at that, and then please tell me how it's not applicable to Royal Purple in LS1 engines.
    Ahhhh....the old Timken....Timken test is designed for grease.....it in no way represents in the slightest of the real world environment inside your engine.....Bleach works really really good in the Timken test...but I aint putting bleach in my built race motor....nope I aint.

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    Quote Originally Posted by freshadenamufcka View Post
    ok so i go to get my oil changed today and the tech goes "are you really sure you want to put that crap into your car?" and he goes on and on about how castrol syntec is the best oil on the market. he also said i should not be using 10w30 because the car recommends 5w30
    Your tech is an idiot.

  8. #48
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    lol right on sarge. u know ur oil well man. ill stick with the pp 10w-30

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    Sarge finally came I love reading Sarge making people look stupid

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    I dont make anybody "stupid"....but I will enlighten anybody to the difference between internet bullshit and science any day.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Ahhhh....the old Timken....Timken test is designed for grease.....it in no way represents in the slightest of the real world environment inside your engine.....Bleach works really really good in the Timken test...but I aint putting bleach in my built race motor....nope I aint.
    Thanks, Sarge.

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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Damn son! 10-30 has less viscosity enhancers thus more shear stable than a 5-30. 10-30 is good to go for like -50f. Where do you live? The North Pole?
    oops your right had that backwards. but anyhow i live in northeast ohio and in the winter hits -15 easy. some people like to switch for the differnt seasons...

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    You base "Mobil1 is the best" statements on what? Synthetic is not thinner...it utilizes the exact same viscosity rating as conventional. High mileage oil is exactly the opposite of synthetic...WTF does that mean....High Mileage oils utilize GRPII/III base stocks and PAO add packs just like synthetics and Conventional.....HM oils utilize seal conditioners and additional cleaning agents in their add packs....that is the only difference....Lord help me with folks on the internet spewing bullshit.............

    well i guess its good to straighten that out. i have never really reseached oil like you obviously, but i suppose what i said was the common belief. i do work in a shop, so im not an idiot, though it may seem like it after that post. i guess it just goes to show that you can know alot about working on cars but there are always new things to learn.

    and the reason i like mobil is because we have a customer who has an older suburban with over 270,000 miles. the car is in excellant condition and has run mobil 1 since new. we have taken most of the motor apart and the internals look new. so i guess thats the reason why i think its a good oil. also i have never heard anything bad about mobil, always more good than bad.

    but i guess next time anyone has a question about anything we'll just ask you first.....

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    You can tell nothing from looking at an oil. Many uninformed say my oil looks black so it must be shot....nope....TBN test will tell you how much active TBN you got left....many add packs turn black as tar after 500 miles...looking at an oil doesnt tell you shit. UOA's reflect Royal Purple shearing out of weight and shitty wear metal analysis.....that is the reason RP gets shitty reviews in LSX motors ( and many others).....not because what it looked like to some invisible "person" who through a third party you "heard"....
    like i said its what summit said, and that still doesnt change the fact that summit racing is pulling it from their shelves. thats gotta tell you something, no?

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    Currently I am running Mobil 1 5w 30. My question is for sarge...for the summer what weight oil should i get? P.P. 5w 30 or P.P. 10w 30. In the owners manual it says 5w 30 but as I've read your numerous oil threads I'm gunna go with you. And BTW I live in Ohio so it get about 80-90 in the summer.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Currently I am running Mobil 1 5w 30. My question is for sarge...for the summer what weight oil should i get? P.P. 5w 30 or P.P. 10w 30. In the owners manual it says 5w 30 but as I've read your numerous oil threads I'm gunna go with you. And BTW I live in Ohio so it get about 80-90 in the summer.
    10w-30 year round.

  18. #58
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    Why is that? Just curious im not the oil guru. And ive also got 100k on my engine.

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    Just what works best via the UOA's.

    I am sure Sarge can go more in depth as to why.
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    And this will work best on a stock engine correct?

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