Finally doin the Headers but need suggestions

**rcorte3001** · 05-06-2010, 11:17 AM

Okay guys I have finally got everything together I think...I have a 98 formula automatic With only 40,000 miles

•Mac midlength headers
•existing stock bolts
•gm factory (new) gaskets
•ORY y pipe /w O2s
•new spark plugs
•new wireset

now I know I need to take coil packs off,Spark plug and wires, air system,and stering shaft, I also was told to tie down the stering wheel when disconnecting the steering shaft,what else is there?

Also do I need any gasket sealant?

Any suggestions before I get in this mess?

Also are stock bolts okay? And anything to look out for ?

**basballny2** · 05-06-2010, 12:17 PM

no gasket sealant, re-use the stock bolts....why midlengths tho?

**gnomee** · 05-06-2010, 05:01 PM

Don't worry about removing your steering shaft. Worst case scenario you will need to loosen it to get them in. I think mid lengths will be a since.

I installed SLP long tubes and only had to loosen it. Also did not remove coils.

**99yellowz28** · 05-06-2010, 05:07 PM

If your going to mod the car why mid lengths may i ask????

**rcorte3001** · 05-06-2010, 05:29 PM

Well the headers were pretty much free and I'm not planning on throwing in a cam or much more than just bolt ons,

Now I lifted the car and it looks so cramed down there how the he'll can u even fit a hand in anywhere?

**pajeff02** · 05-06-2010, 06:11 PM

I removed the coil packs and agree that it did provide more working room. It's not all that difficult to take them off. The back bolt on the passenger side is a bit of a challenge. You will also want to pop the pins on the cowl seal as they are sharp and will shred your hands in a hurry. Just push up on them from underneath with a flatblade screwdriver or something.

Do you have the torque specs? Best recollection is that plugs are 11 ft.lbs. and header bolts are 18 ft.lbs. New GM gaskets are definitely the way to go. The stock manifold bolts have a thread locker on them. On our car, a couple wanted to tighten up as they were unscrewed. I carefully threaded the bolts in and out a bit and this seemed to loosen them up for easier removal. Last thing you want to do is snap one off or bugger up the threads in your heads.

**bberretta** · 05-07-2010, 08:00 AM

I've been told you can use high-temp rtv on the inside of slip joints to help keep them from leaking (basically like using a gasket/o-ring). Haven't ever tried this myself, but may give it a whirl when I do mine in the next couple of weeks- sure can't hurt.

My advice- don't get all Hercules on it and go overtightening anything! The header bolts are rather small and can shear off and also warp the flange. If you crimp the pipe you'll create leaks. Good luck- post pics!

**basballny2** · 05-07-2010, 08:47 AM

agreed on not overtightening.....get the tq specs and use a tq wrench......remember, its an aluminum block

**LS2Tuner** · 05-07-2010, 07:28 PM

You NEED to get a tube of Permatex Ultra Copper.

Take the silicon and place a small amount on BOTH sides of the gasket around the port opening. Spread the silicon out with your finger so it basically forums a thin bead/o ring. Allow it to fully sit up before installing. You will never burn them out unless you allow bolts to come loose and continue to drive that way. We have MANY race cars that we re use the same header gaskets for more than one season which usually includes multiple removals.

Believe me I have been doing this for 15 years now it works.