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Engine ticking

This is a discussion on Engine ticking within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; usually glass is the perfect surface...

  1. #41
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    usually glass is the perfect surface

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    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    I have an 01 Z28 (Sara) garage queen with 28K original miles, and I have had a low uneven tick (can hear it more @ idle) since 8k. I have no adverse problems with the vehicle, have plenty of power, and throw no codes. I run 10W-30 synthetic oil.

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  3. #43
    Junior Member Keith01's Avatar
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    I have the same exact ticking, sounds louder under the car but when listening from engine bay its loudest at the drivers side rear of the motor. Which after doing countless searches I think it has to be the oil pump o-ring making #7 lifters do the ticking. I pullled all the rockers and push rods to check for straightness, all checked out good and I put assembly lube on the rockers. When I started it there was no ticking for about 1 minute then started again. Its very irritating.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith01 View Post
    I have the same exact ticking, sounds louder under the car but when listening from engine bay its loudest at the drivers side rear of the motor. Which after doing countless searches I think it has to be the oil pump o-ring making #7 lifters do the ticking. I pullled all the rockers and push rods to check for straightness, all checked out good and I put assembly lube on the rockers. When I started it there was no ticking for about 1 minute then started again. Its very irritating.
    That could very well be true. I've read about that before.

  5. #45
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    To the OP- if you change your oil every 1000 miles (Did I read that right?) you really don't need synthetic oil IMHO. I got 300K + miles out more than one GM vehicle using conventional oil. As far a noise- I think the aluminum block/heads amplify engine noise and it may just be me but synthetic oil seems very thin when compared to the same type (10/40 etc.) in conventional oil.

    I damn sure wouldn't be pulling out my oil pump when the car has good pressure..... maybe that's just me. Then again- I can't really tell how loud your car is...

  6. #46
    Junior Member Keith01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LETHALxLS1 View Post
    I damn sure wouldn't be pulling out my oil pump when the car has good pressure..... maybe that's just me. Then again- I can't really tell how loud your car is...
    Thats why I haven't pulled out the oil pump yet. Then if i did pull the pump and the ticking was still there i would be really pissed. If you want to know how loud it is. Take a motor with adjustable rockers and loosen one of the rockers till it klacks and put the valve cover back on lol.

  7. #47
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith01 View Post
    Thats why I haven't pulled out the oil pump yet. Then if i did pull the pump and the ticking was still there i would be really pissed. If you want to know how loud it is. Take a motor with adjustable rockers and loosen one of the rockers till it klacks and put the valve cover back on lol.
    Yeah- that would be much louder than I thought. I know this isn't your issue but my Z had piston slap when I first bought it and it made me really uncomfortable. One day I started it up and didn't hear it anymore..... can't tell you how glad I am.

    Good luck

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    Last of the Breed j nix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LETHALxLS1 View Post
    Yeah- that would be much louder than I thought. I know this isn't your issue but my Z had piston slap when I first bought it and it made me really uncomfortable. One day I started it up and didn't hear it anymore..... can't tell you how glad I am.

    Good luck
    I know this might be elementary for you guys, but what exactly is piston slap? I have ticking as well that I am trying to get rid of. When I searched out the sound, I found it was coming from my injectors. Could some one give me their opinion on what I could check for and or what I could do to get rid of the sound. I used fuel injection cleaner, but the sound didn't go away.
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    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j nix View Post
    I know this might be elementary for you guys, but what exactly is piston slap? I have ticking as well that I am trying to get rid of. When I searched out the sound, I found it was coming from my injectors. Could some one give me their opinion on what I could check for and or what I could do to get rid of the sound. I used fuel injection cleaner, but the sound didn't go away.
    I'm not an expert, but injector ticking is all together a different sound. i really can't say i have not listened to your car, but personally i find it harder to listen and pinpoint where a noise is coming form, and some one did point out that its also harder on an aluminum block, and i agree. if I'd have to take a stab at your ticking and you think its near the injectors, i would look at your rocker arms and valve springs, there known to make a little noise. but, piston slap is form the piston rocking in the bore when the piston changes direction the skirt slaps up against the bore. can be a tolerance issue or caused from short skirt pistons.

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    Last of the Breed j nix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob00Taws6 View Post
    I'm not an expert, but injector ticking is all together a different sound. i really can't say i have not listened to your car, but personally i find it harder to listen and pinpoint where a noise is coming form, and some one did point out that its also harder on an aluminum block, and i agree. if I'd have to take a stab at your ticking and you think its near the injectors, i would look at your rocker arms and valve springs, there known to make a little noise. but, piston slap is form the piston rocking in the bore when the piston changes direction the skirt slaps up against the bore. can be a tolerance issue or caused from short skirt pistons.
    What do I look for with my rocker arms and valve springs. Is fixing or replacing them a complicated and or expensive job.

  11. #51
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    Stock rockers have been known to spit out their needle bearings which will then either lay on top of the head or drop down into the oil pan.

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    Last of the Breed j nix's Avatar
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    So is it a complicated job to install new rockers or springs?

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    I might be missing some steps, but I believe the install is pretty straight forward...it's the torquing down the rockers and adjusting the lash to spec that can me a PITA. But if you know what you're doing, everything should be cake.

  14. #54
    Last of the Breed j nix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    I might be missing some steps, but I believe the install is pretty straight forward...it's the torquing down the rockers and adjusting the lash to spec that can me a PITA. But if you know what you're doing, everything should be cake.
    There is the catch," if you know what you are doing". Lol. I know my way around my tools, but don't know much about internal engine, yet. Think the factory service manual will explain how to do it? If I just switched them out even if they were good, will I benefit from after market rockers?

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    A factory service manual should help. It will give you torque specs and lash settings.

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by j nix View Post
    There is the catch," if you know what you are doing". Lol. I know my way around my tools, but don't know much about internal engine, yet. Think the factory service manual will explain how to do it? If I just switched them out even if they were good, will I benefit from after market rockers?
    Well, if you go with AM rockers, Either make sure they are matching ratio to your factory, or you could need a tune... Picking a different ratio, effectively simulates making the cam bigger... Which May cause ECM/Fueling issues without a tune, and/or valve spring bind.

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    You need two special tools to change out the springs: 1) An air adapter that screws into the spark plug hole and attaches to your shop's air supply. This keeps the valves raised as you remove the retainers and swap out the springs. 2) A tool to compress the springs on the head so you can remove the locks. I see that Jeg's now lists one in their tool section for the LS1 heads.

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    Last of the Breed j nix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FORD RECOVERY EXPERT View Post
    Well, if you go with AM rockers, Either make sure they are matching ratio to your factory, or you could need a tune... Picking a different ratio, effectively simulates making the cam bigger... Which May cause ECM/Fueling issues without a tune, and/or valve spring bind.
    A different ratio and a tune might not be a bad idea. I have 116k on my car. She runs great, but I was debating if I should do the cam and heads on this engine. Any idea what it would run approximately.

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    Last of the Breed j nix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    You need two special tools to change out the springs: 1) An air adapter that screws into the spark plug hole and attaches to your shop's air supply. This keeps the valves raised as you remove the retainers and swap out the springs. 2) A tool to compress the springs on the head so you can remove the locks. I see that Jeg's now lists one in their tool section for the LS1 heads.
    I don't like getting into a project with out the right tools. Not that haven't done it many times. Lol. Good looking out. Are there any major don'ts when taking this on. Something stupid I could do that will really F my car?

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    If you follow Jeff's instructions, and you don't pull the heads, there shouldn't be an issue.

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