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Engine ticking

This is a discussion on Engine ticking within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Cutlass Sounds like the typical sewing machine LS1 noise to me. lol yes its possible....

  1. #21
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Sounds like the typical sewing machine LS1 noise to me.
    lol yes its possible.

  2. #22
    Member km346's Avatar
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    The sound quality of that video is terrible so its really hard to hear... but it sounds like it just has really bad piston slap. A rod bearing will be LOUD. It will also get louder and softer depending on load and rpm, and under load it will be the loudest. My buddy has an 02 with really low miles that slaps really loud at idle, and just like you said it seems to be worse when its really hot out. A stuck/bad lifter will make a much different noise then the car in that video... it would have been ticking like crazy as he revved it up, not the nice slow clack, clack, clack, clack. FWIW my car will slap very softly when its cold and then go away once warmed up, and my buddies car makes all sorts of noise at idle no matter what temperature. Some of these engines just seem to be noisy as hell.
    Last edited by km346; 06-07-2011 at 09:24 PM.

  3. #23
    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Interesting. Before you go ripping into things, I think you need to better verify the general area the noise is coming from. I understand that is sounds louder underneath the car, but noises can due weird things and be difficult to pinpoint.

    Find a good clean piece of wood -- something like a 2" x 2" that is 2-3' long. Do this very carefully! With the engine running press the end of the wood against a rocker cover and place your ear against the other end. This will amplify the sound and transmit it to your ear. It will also block out other engine bay sounds to a degree. As best you can, change positions on the rocker cover and listen again. Then move to the other side and try the same thing, and then finally go under the car and place it against your oil pan and move it around. Find where the sound is the loudest and clearest and that is the area that is generating the noise. Just be damn careful not to get yourself tangled up in the belt doing this.

    I agree with everything that has been suggested -- an exhaust leak, a bent push rod, a collapsed lifter, rod knock... it could be any of these.
    thanks! I tried this with a long screwdriver... didn't think of trying it with wood. And, yes i find it crazy all these noise sound very similar in an LS1 with some deviations with sever problems, its a little bit of a PIA when it comes to diagnosing problems, i gather it has a bit to do with all the aluminum.

  4. #24
    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by km346 View Post
    The sound quality of that video is terrible so its really hard to hear... but it sounds like it just has really bad piston slap. A rod bearing will be LOUD. It will also get louder and softer depending on load and rpm, and under load it will be the loudest. My buddy has an 02 with really low miles that slaps really loud at idle, and just like you said it seems to be worse when its really hot out. A stuck/bad lifter will make a much different noise then the car in that video... it would have been ticking like crazy as he revved it up, not the nice slow clack, clack, clack, clack. FWIW my car will slap very softly when its cold and then go away once warmed up, and my buddies car makes all sorts of noise at idle no matter what temperature. Some of these engines just seem to be noisy as hell.
    I agree the sound quality sucks, but the similarities are the same. Im kind of coming back around to what i originally thought the problem was, and that is a really bad case of piston slap. I can pick out a bearing well, it just does not fit the mold, but then again I've seen some weird stuff too, but bearings are pretty straight forward there junk, going to be junk very soon, or done.
    Last edited by Rob00Taws6; 06-08-2011 at 05:53 PM.

  5. #25
    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    lol yes its possible.
    Umm sewing machine noise, would be associated with the valve train, beehive springs rocker arms? at least that is my association with the sewing machine noise, if that's the sewing machine, then i would have to say no, i can hear the sewing machine noise under the sound of the knocking.

  6. #26
    Last of the Breed j nix's Avatar
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    I would go to your local auto parts store and by a $10 stethoscope. It works really well on pinpointing noises. Then I would check and see if it is coming from your injectors. I am not a mechanic either, but this is were I found my clicking was coming from. Noises drive me crazy too. Hope this helps.
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  7. #27
    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    So if it is a severe case of piston slap. One, would that effect the knock sensor and subsequently retard the timing, my thoughts are hell yes it probably does. And second question is would throwing a cam at this engine a "bad idea". I think its probably a bad idea. would i be better suited looking for a good short block?

    My theory now its make the car LOUDER so I don't have to hear knock knock knock! but not at the expense of blowing an engine.
    Last edited by Rob00Taws6; 06-08-2011 at 06:28 PM.

  8. #28
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    First motor in my car ticked and the new one ticks too.

  9. #29
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    You still need to diagnose the source of the noise. At this point, we are all still guessing at what it might be. If the PCM is indeed pulling timing due to the knock sensors going off, you will be able to see this with a scanner. Another possibility is to get a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) to see if you have excessive metal particulate matter in your oil. This would assist you in determining if you have an engine bearing issue.

  10. #30
    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    You still need to diagnose the source of the noise. At this point, we are all still guessing at what it might be. If the PCM is indeed pulling timing due to the knock sensors going off, you will be able to see this with a scanner. Another possibility is to get a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) to see if you have excessive metal particulate matter in your oil. This would assist you in determining if you have an engine bearing issue.
    I agree! I just did an oil change. I'll be honest with ya I change my oil like i change my Underwear, and that's way to often, oil never sees 3000 miles, nor does the filter. the magnetic tip on the oil plug is probably useless, and will not take the place of a UOA but I never see anything on it to raise that good ol' red flag, where would i get the Used oil analysis? So the scan would it specifically say the PCM is pulling timing, also would that throw a Check engine light if the PCM is pulling timing, just wondering cause i had a scan done last year and the mechanic printed the whole report, and i didn't see anything in regard to a knock sensor pulling the timing back, guess that's a good sign then, was just wondering if there was a little more obscurity to the PCM pulling timing. or is it knock sensor triggers, pulls the timing back and throws the code as well as a light?

  11. #31
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    The PCM won't throw a CEL for pulling timing if I recall. If your tech is using freeze frame data on his scanner, he would be able to point out where the timing is being pulled/retarded. The SOLUS and MODUS from Snap-On can run at real time and catch when the PCM pulls timing using a graph. Hope this helps.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    The PCM won't throw a CEL for pulling timing if I recall. If your tech is using freeze frame data on his scanner, he would be able to point out where the timing is being pulled/retarded. The SOLUS and MODUS from Snap-On can run at real time and catch when the PCM pulls timing using a graph. Hope this helps.
    Ok, that's what i thought it be, a little more obscure, he did have one of those scanners but I'll never go back to him and at the time i had a different problem, and i was 7 hours away form home so i really wasn't looking directly at timing, i had an a miss fire that would come and go, he told me that it was a burnt valve, I'll give ya $500 dollars for the car, i told him BULLSHIT I'm a little smarter than your think... was the internet 02 sensors i put in the car last year... but he was showing me everything fuel curbs for each cylinder, and a bunch of things to try to justify his position, with his little scanner... noting with timing, then again, i would like to see whats going on with that.
    Last edited by Rob00Taws6; 06-10-2011 at 04:45 PM.

  13. #33
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    A tech who knows his shit WILL show you what your PCM is doing as well as all sensors in your car. And he will give you printouts.

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    factory rockers hold oil do to the fact there are no hole in them to release the vacum effect

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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    A tech who knows his shit WILL show you what your PCM is doing as well as all sensors in your car. And he will give you printouts.
    ya that guy was far from professional, was in a little bit of a bind at the time. living in a new place now, its hard to find someone that knows there shit!

  16. #36
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    You want it to not sound like a sewing machine? - 10/40 conventional . I been running 10/40 valvoline in mine since 06. I tried synthetic oil in my Z and changed it within a few hundred miles- do not like. I change my oil so often I don't need synthetic anyways....
    Last edited by LETHALxLS1; 06-10-2011 at 09:08 PM.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by LETHALxLS1 View Post
    You want it to not sound like a sewing machine? - 10/40 conventional . I been running 10/40 valvoline in mine since 06. I tried synthetic oil in my Z and changed it within a few hundred miles- do not like. I change my oil so often I don't need synthetic anyways....
    ya. I change my oil a lot too, I know I'm not living in extreme cold, personally I've always used a good quality synthetic sense i had my 89 GTA just thought synthetics had better wear properties. maybe its the same changed every 1000 miles? good Sarge question! come to think of it i think i asked him something similar back in the day. think it had something to do with film thicknesses of oils, think he did say that conventional have better film thickness then synthetics, i think.
    Last edited by Rob00Taws6; 06-11-2011 at 06:56 PM.

  18. #38
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    I'm trying to remember if Marvel Mystery Oil cures the ticking.

  19. #39
    Member Rob00Taws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    I'm trying to remember if Marvel Mystery Oil cures the ticking.
    Ive used it on my two jeeps as well as other peoples cars for sticky lifters works well. Think i got to at least pull the valve covers off check before hand.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Check the valvetrain. There are some members who will suggest the "roll" test with the pushrods. Take out the pushrods and roll them on a flat surface to see if any are bent.

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