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E-cutout wiring help

This is a discussion on E-cutout wiring help within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Guerrillakilla13 sorry to resurrect the subject but I finally got everything going. almost everything.. only problem i'm ...

  1. #21
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrillakilla13 View Post
    sorry to resurrect the subject but I finally got everything going. almost everything.. only problem i'm having now is finding a power source.. I've read that many people put the ground and neutral to the cigarette lighter under the stereo. Is any splicing required for those wires? I can get to it but I can't see the back of the lighter..

    thanks!
    Ground = neutral = negative in a car. Positive = hot in a car as well, just so you don't get things mixed up.

    They sell fuse taps, which are the cleanest way to get power if your not running a new line into your own fuse block. Here's what they look like:


    And you can simply ground the wire underneath a bolt/nut that touches the bare metal of the body.
    Last edited by KMdef9; 07-21-2012 at 07:11 AM.

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    ^^ That probably would not fit under the cover on the side of the dash. Otherwise, neat setup and far better than the usual manner of tapping into a fuse panel.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    ^^ That probably would not fit under the cover on the side of the dash. Otherwise, neat setup and far better than the usual manner of tapping into a fuse panel.
    EDIT: used it on a mini blade application, must have been for a different car. Forgot these were the regular sized fuses.




    And OP, if you are going to tap a fuse, make sure you test each socket (I cant remember any more, I made my own fuse block) and use the side that doesn't have power when you turn the car on. That way your device is fuse protected.
    Last edited by KMdef9; 07-21-2012 at 11:25 AM.

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    ^^ Do you mean, doesn't have power when the car key is off? For the most part, you tap the terminal that is hot with the key on and run a separate in-line fuse in the wire as close to the power source as you can.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    ^^ Do you mean, doesn't have power when the car key is off? For the most part, you tap the terminal that is hot with the key on and run a separate in-line fuse in the wire as close to the power source as you can.
    ^^ Do you hook it to an existing (being used) fuse outlat or one of the spare open ones?

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    I think I had one open spot in the side fuse panel. It's been a while and I have since changed out my power runs as more accessories have been added.

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    anyone ever have an experience with ''wireless cut outs''....ya know the remote controlled kind?

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    Assisted in installing a wireless exhaust system on a friend's Corvette 2 or 3 years ago. Don't really recall the details of the system, but it moved a valve in the muffler when you pushed a button on a keyfob.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Assisted in installing a wireless exhaust system on a friend's Corvette 2 or 3 years ago. Don't really recall the details of the system, but it moved a valve in the muffler when you pushed a button on a keyfob.
    yeah i dunno? i saw one on youtube thought maybe it would be a lil easier?(not that the wire install is hard) just thought id ask everyone?

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    You still have to run power and ground to the cutout, even if it is wireless. So the only difference would be the addition of a switch for the non-wireless version.

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    I like the fact that you wouldn't have to mount a switch in the car. I did mine to where I didn't have to drill any holes but even still it'd be nice not to have a switch mounted.

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    Sorry gents but i'm lost.. when it comes to tapping power from the fuse box, only one wire can touch the adapter?, while another one can be connected anywhere-metal on the car? I think it might just be easier to connect a battery to the damn wires

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    yes....you'll have a hot wire ( usually red and fused) that will go to your fuse box and then you'll have a ground (usually black) that you can ground to any screw that goes into metal. You can put a 1/4" spade on the red wire and plug that into your fuse box like in my picture and then put a ring terminal on the black and either find a screw to put it under or use a self tapping screw and put it under that screw. Either way I would recommend hitting the piece of metal with a little sandpaper first so you get good metal to metal contact. After it's in I always shoot a little spray paint over it to keep it from rusting around the screw.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    ^^ Do you mean, doesn't have power when the car key is off? For the most part, you tap the terminal that is hot with the key on and run a separate in-line fuse in the wire as close to the power source as you can.
    Some of the accessories won't have power unless they key is turned to on. With the fuse pulled (I like using the windshield wipers circuit b/c I never use them), one blade insert side will have power and the other won't. If you tap the side that doesn't have juice, you'll be using the fused end of the circuit and don't need to use a an inline fuse. This could be an issue if you use both accessories at the same time, but I think it would be rare if you used your wipers and the cutout and the same time.

    If you plan on using an inline fuse, I'd do what Jeff is saying, b/c then your not doubling accessing the fused side of whatever circuit you choose.

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