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DRL's

This is a discussion on DRL's within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I see where many people are having trouble with the front blinkers. And see where water is getting the rap ...

  1. #1
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    DRL's

    I see where many people are having trouble with the front blinkers. And see where water is getting the rap for this. I've had to do the passangers side twice now and both times the plastic part of the bulb is dry and brittle. The socket also looks the same. I'm not saying water did not cause this but what about the heat from always on. The brittle plastic seems to be from heat, though I could be wrong. And just where are you guys finding replacement sockets? Don't want one from the bone yard. Bet the headlight makers love the always on lights.

  2. #2
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    i know what your saying. . but most of the time there is much corrision/rust on the prongs of the bulb and inside the socket. i think the evidence of heat damage on the bulb comes from the bulb shorting out because of the moisture/water. but i don't rule out them being on all the time being a possible cause of some damage.
    dont remember how the harness goes into the housing on the camaros but on the trans ams (not the firebirds) it goes in vertically with the bulb facing up, allowing any moisture that gets into the housing to settle in the socket. i know i have one housing the has small cracks in it (which could be caused by the heat, in turn indirectly causing this problem), which probably allow the moisture in. Also on the birds, the flip up headlights allow water to drip directly on the turn signal housing, especially when the headlights are up. Lastly, the rubber/foam seal goes bad on the harness, also possibly letting moisture in.
    As for gettin new harnesses, I got mine at oreilly's. Don't ask em to look it up on the computer, because the one they bring up costs like $40. Go into the electrical aisle and find it yourself. I think our bulbs are 3357's, but i think the harness says 3157 on it. Should cost around $4-5.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the heads up on the socket. In the Z28 it mounts with the bulb down seems like water would run out. And I can see where arching might cause some of the problems, I just really wonder about the heat generated. I know that if you drive at night lots it is like the same thing. But always on.........why????? Guess I should just disable them.

  4. #4
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    well even with the bulb facing downward. . the heat in the housing combined with any moisture that has got into the housing could cause a high moisture content in the "air" in the housing, so the harness could still come in contact with moisture. again, i'm not completely positive that the moisture/water is primarily causing the bulbs to go out and the heat maybe having a indirect role. the heat could still have a direct role in some circumstances. I just know that everytime Ive had an issue with the bulb burning out, it seems that moisture is the main cause.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89RS&98Z28 View Post
    Thanks for the heads up on the socket. In the Z28 it mounts with the bulb down seems like water would run out. And I can see where arching might cause some of the problems, I just really wonder about the heat generated. I know that if you drive at night lots it is like the same thing. But always on.........why????? Guess I should just disable them.
    the problem with the heat is because the drl's turn on the turn signal element in your bulb, not the parking light side, for visibility in the daytime. brighter lamp= more heat.

  6. #6
    Something Diabolical... chuckie669's Avatar
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    I removed my sockets and repaired them. To me it looked like the bulb sits too close to the top and the damage occured where a temp conflict such as water hitting the top of the socket housing (rundown from headlights) and caused stress cracks.

    After removing the housing, put a coat of JBweld across the top of the piece, then sanded down. Ran a bead of silicone on the front edges where the clear plastic meets the solid housing and replaced the sockets using the cutless method found in a writeup around here.

    Then replaced the flasher with a HD unit and put 2 amber LED's up front. There is no heat put off from my front signals and have not burnt a bulb or had water in the housing since (went thru at least one a week before w/ daily driving).

    total Price < $20

  7. #7
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckie669 View Post
    I removed my sockets and repaired them. To me it looked like the bulb sits too close to the top and the damage occured where a temp conflict such as water hitting the top of the socket housing (rundown from headlights) and caused stress cracks.
    i can see this. . .

    how do you like the led's? I've been thinkin of converting all my lighting (except fogs and headlights) to led

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckie669 View Post
    I removed my sockets and repaired them. To me it looked like the bulb sits too close to the top and the damage occured where a temp conflict such as water hitting the top of the socket housing (rundown from headlights) and caused stress cracks.

    After removing the housing, put a coat of JBweld across the top of the piece, then sanded down. Ran a bead of silicone on the front edges where the clear plastic meets the solid housing and replaced the sockets using the cutless method found in a writeup around here.

    Then replaced the flasher with a HD unit and put 2 amber LED's up front. There is no heat put off from my front signals and have not burnt a bulb or had water in the housing since (went thru at least one a week before w/ daily driving).

    total Price < $20
    any problems with the leds? maybe its only if you do front and rear, but i understand they cause flasher trouble cuz they dont draw enough current. [at least on a harley anyway you need a load equalizer to run leds in turnsignals]

  9. #9
    Something Diabolical... chuckie669's Avatar
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    LED's are great. Replaced the front and rear with them. You will need to get an upgraded flasher unit for your blinkers to work, but that's it. Got mine from O'reilly on sale for 5'ish bucks.

  10. #10
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    whered you guys get your leds?

  11. #11
    Something Diabolical... chuckie669's Avatar
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    I got mine from ledlight dot com. It looks like their prices have gone up since my last visit so I don't know if you can find a better deal.

    If you do stumble across a good buy, let me know because I want to get a few more.

  12. #12
    Junior Member stormy69's Avatar
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    i know its old but its on topic... i put led brake and running lights in my 99ss and now cruise doesnt work. havent done any troubleshooting but thought i would ask if anyone else had this issue till i get around to it this weekend.

  13. #13
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    my front housings on my formula melted from the heat of the DRLs, them suckers get hot. The pass side was the worst, not so much on the driv side. 40$ apeice from the stealership

  14. #14
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    Generally if the bulb is exploded it was because of water.

    Lots of people have cracked housings from rocks etc and that lets extra water in.

    We sell thicker gaskets to replace the factory ones that shrink up. I have not replaced a DRL bulb since I put them on. It used to be a guaranteed 6 month issue.


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