Doing a full intake/exhaust job...
This is a discussion on Doing a full intake/exhaust job... within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; ...and I've got some questions. Any and all input is appreciated. 1998 Z28 and all it has done to it ...
07-30-2011, 07:57 PM #1
Doing a full intake/exhaust job...
...and I've got some questions. Any and all input is appreciated. 1998 Z28 and all it has done to it is GMMG catback. This is the plan right now:
1 3/4" ARH
LS6 intake mani
So now for a bunch of questions.
Should I do a FAST 90/90, or is that too big for this setup?
I haven't had any problems with the PCV so far, and all the hoses look in good condition. Should I upgrade to an LS6 PCV or wait?
Is there any reason not to get volant?
For the LS6 intake, should I do after market TB or just port my LS1?
My car will probably never see track time. That being said I like to run out to the mountains every so often. Will 2pt SFC's be good enough?
Are there any supporting mods I need or should do?
07-30-2011, 08:59 PM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- San Diego, CA
2002 Z28 A4 NBM
- Sadly now demodded :(
Intake manifold will be dependant on cam. I don't see you specing a cam so I'd go stay with the LS6 intake.
LS6 intake does not have a PCV. What do you mean?
Stock TB should be fine untill you exceed 500 hp.
No track time? Then why alter anything?????
If you are more into the twistie's then I'd go with the best SFC's (3 point are better than 2 point although I have 2 point type) as well as a STB as this is better for handling vs. 1/4 mile performance.
Last edited by 67CamaroRSSS; 07-30-2011 at 09:10 PM.67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...
2005 Corvette LS2/M6 Magnetic Red Metallic (What else would it be?) w/ Cashmere interior
2002 Z28: NBM/Tan, MTI smooth lid, smooth bellows, !AIR, !cats, 1-3/4" QTP SS LT's, 2-1/2" TD's with X-pipe, MagnaFlows dumped at axle, custom welded SFC's, MidWest Chassis body mount adjustable T/A, 3400 stall, 3.23 gears (was 2.73). Tuned: 343rwhp/357rwt (before TD's). Best: 12.559 @ 108+, 1.73 60' @ 3500' DA w/MT ET Street DR's.
Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!
07-30-2011, 09:47 PM #3
a cam or H/C setup is somewhere in the future. As for the PCV, I meant if I should do the valley cover mod. I've heard that the LS1 system drains oil and the hoses go bad so I was just wondering if its worth it to do it now or if it can wait. why mod? why not? I'd love to take it to a track actually, so maybe one day.
08-01-2011, 09:31 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Central Florida
Navy Blue, Dark Cherry
- 98 M6 TA, 87 A4 TA
1) Intake I'd also suggest going with LS6, if you end up stroking it dow the road or go with a heavy heads/cam setup you might need to upgrade beyond the LS6 intake but you can likely resell it for what you buy it for (if you buy used).
2) If you are referring to the LS6 valler cover mod I wouldn't bother, most who do the mod also end up running a catch can. I went this way: (LS6 intake LS1 valley cover with the PCV running through a catch can), and I am happy with the setup. I did replace all my old PCV hoses with fresh hoses.
3) I can't compare MTI to Volant head to head but I also went MTI and am happy with it, but I don't have any reason not to like Volant, I'd also do the cold air intake mod.
4) Stock TB ported should be good unless you bore/stroke it.
5) any SFC is an upgrade, again i can't compare 2pt to 3pt back to back, but I went with 3 point SFC
6) I'd suggest you read through the free mods: TB cooltant bypass, Porting TB, AirBox baffle trim, etc. I also strongly suggest a tune after the headers and intake (Frost mail order worked great for me). If its a 6-speed, the cluch drill mod, and aftermarket shifter (I went B&M and am happy with it). Don't forget your brakes and tires (faster you run those mountians the faster you'll need to stop). Might also want to start considering an aftermarket torque arm to strengthen the power transfer from rearend to chassis or at least get the front of the torque arm off of the transmission. If your doing headers you might want to consider doing motor mounts while you are in there (they are a bitch but took a lot of the side to side play out of my moror and thus out of the shifter).
good luck and enjoy
Last edited by TransAmX2; 08-01-2011 at 09:33 AM.
08-02-2011, 07:58 PM #5
Thanks for the tips guys. I'll get going on those free mods soon
08-03-2011, 12:08 PM #6
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Ugy Lower Corner of AL
Navy Blue Metallic
- 98 T/A w/a little mods...
1. If you got the cash sure, but you said you won't be doing any track time, so why bother? The Ls6 Intake are pretty good (Yes, I have one), can be had for around $300 used.
2.PCV - there are 3 types on mind sets on this subject. (A) Purest - keep it all original, (B) The "I don't see why" crowd - they see no improvement or changes in performance, plus I don't have to do the work or spend the $$$, (C) The "I've done the LS6 VCT Mod ( Yes I'm one) - I've made a sticky that can explain the differences in the OEM PCV setup vs the LS6 VCT mod.
I personally feel it's a better setup and cleans the engine bay up nice. I will always recommend doing this mod. Cheaper then replacing the OEM piece and looks better then the quick fix. (Yes I've done it too)
3. None, I like the look, just don't have the hood for now. I may get it when I get my WSQ hood from VFN.
4. I as well as many others have the P&P TB. No noticeable difference between them and the 80mm TB. If you do go with a FAST 90 or 120 Intake then yes an aftermarket TB would be best.
5. 2 point are good, 3 point are best, if you have a Vert then your stuck with 2 point. Weld in vs bolt on. No differences in performance just Bolt ons can be welded in later.
6. Someone already post about the free mods. AS far as what else to recommend - we can spend your $$$ very quick. You just need to decide what you want to do with your car. DD/Street/Track/Show or a combo, research, take note, and plan it out. It will save you time and $$. Unless you have a large bank roll plan on it taking a few yrs to do it all. Normal builds can take the average gear head 3-5 yrs. It all depends on $$$, time, skill & tools. I've had mine for 2 1/2 yrs and she was stock when I got her. I've done everything in my signature since then.
Good luck and welcome to the site.
Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-03-2011 at 12:10 PM.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, SLP Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
08-03-2011, 06:59 PM #7
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Madison, WI
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
- 2001 Silverado Z71
2. I agree the LS6 valley PCV is a better/cleaner looking system. I do recommend it, but its certainly not a required mod...especially if you aren't having any problems with your current setup.
3. I think the Volant is a bad ass looking filter setup. I never had one, but I've heard that they do a whole lot for performance over the other options.
4. Port the LS1 TB. s2performance.net does a nice job with there's.
5. 2 points are good enough. 3 points are even better.
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)