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06-26-2009, 04:25 AM #1
do i need a torque arm or something else?? (pics)
i laid some rubber the other day and afterwards i noticed there was still wheel hop in the marks, though i didnt feel it at the time. wheel hop was atrocious before any mods, so it is much better now. the mods i have thus far are LCAs, relocation brackets, PHB, 3-point SFCs, tunnel brace with safety loop and eibach pro-kit (but i still use the stock shocks ). would an aftermarket torque arm stop the wheel hop or maybe new shocks?
and why does this happen mostly on only one side?
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06-26-2009, 05:34 AM #2
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
a properly angled torque arm will help stop/control wheel hop
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06-26-2009, 07:17 AM #3
It does seem worse on passenger side...
You might try adjusting tire pressures. Record starting pressures and go up or down to see if changing helps. Find a smooth white concrete slab where you can see the changes. Behind my Lowe's there is a big smooth, clean, white slab with no traffic or CCTV.
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06-28-2009, 05:40 AM #4
I totally agree, the BMR adjustable cromoly torque arm is the way to go, it comes with a poly mount where it hooks up to the tail shaft of the transmission, it will also let you adjust your pinion angle if you ever lower the vehicle.
I run a 3000 stall (2.3 STR) along with 3.73:1 rearend gears, with a race grade 2-4 billet servo, and I have no problems with wheel hop.
SteveCLast edited by SteveC; 06-28-2009 at 05:42 AM.
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06-28-2009, 04:21 PM #5
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- Jul 2007
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- Allen, TX
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Red- 2001 Trans Am
nice rubber, how did u do that?
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06-28-2009, 04:32 PM #6
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Pewter- 2000 Trans Am
did you lower the car? if so, you might need relocation brackets and an alignment.
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06-28-2009, 04:58 PM #7
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06-28-2009, 05:06 PM #8
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- May 2009
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- Toronto
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SOM- 2002 SS
Im all stock but no wheel hop. stock shocks ?
Ok I just re-read your post. All those suspension mods and still stock shocks... keep hiding under that chair I'll hold my tongue...Last edited by 5abivt; 06-28-2009 at 05:14 PM.
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06-28-2009, 05:57 PM #9
will a torque arm also kill brake dive under hard braking?
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06-28-2009, 06:09 PM #10
may be bending your pan hard rod as well if its stock. may want to look into and adjustable tubular panhard rod.
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06-28-2009, 07:14 PM #11
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Flame Red / Orange Custom- 1998 Trans Am
98 Trans Am Custom Paint, Ghost Skuls On Racing Stripe + Custom Front Lip, :MODs Tubular K-member, Tubular Upper and lower A-arms, Tubular Control Arms, 4:10's, Cam L-.567/.575 D@.05-.212/.218,1.85 Roller Rockers, P&P Heads, ARH Headers & HF Cats & Y-Pipe, SLP loudmouth catback, +'s
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06-28-2009, 07:21 PM #12
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- May 2009
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Flame Red / Orange Custom- 1998 Trans Am
Like shady milkman said try aligning it, if you dont want to buy a new tourq am or try poly bushings or just buy a new one spon has one that takes the stress off of the tail shaft of the transmishion just dont forget to align it. Also did you get new lower control arms also? cause if not I would get some tubbed ones I got the BMR tubbed non adjustable Lower control arms and the difference was night and day the car drove way better after (for burn outs too). Hope this helps.
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06-28-2009, 07:24 PM #13
I can't remember, can we put air bags in our cars? That helped my buddies cobra.
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06-29-2009, 04:17 AM #14
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06-29-2009, 04:25 AM #15
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
tourque arm
lower control arm relocation bracket
lower control arms
panhard
there you go..these parts will get your car set for anything you want to push at it...larger rims..increase traction..durability.
i am a huge UMI fan...for my suspension i will only use UMI and strano products ..and hopefully some konis. So it is only natural that i suggest those to you
i also made sure to link adjustable suspension part..it should go without saying..adjustable is the way to go..as your car changes etc...your suspension must also. Also no 1 car is alike so fine tuning the suspension will lead to dramatically faster times
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06-29-2009, 04:27 AM #16
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
im sorry..i for some reason thought you were bone stock..but none the less the torque arm is the way to go...it will be my next suspension purchase..then it will be onto the front and shocks and springs $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
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06-29-2009, 05:18 AM #17
thanks for all of the help/suggestions. i checked the pressure in the tires, the driver's side right was about 5 PSI low. now they are all even again. i will try this again on a more consistant/level surface.
i think i will order a torque arm in the next couple of weeks. shocks will probably have to wait until winter or spring (i dont want to piss off the wife too much!). come to think about it - after swapping out the springs and everything else, i never had the car aligned.
should i get a BMR chromoly adjustable or sphon? (the lower control arms, relocation brackets, panhard bar and tunnel brace are all BMR and the sub frame connectors and strut tower brace are UMI.) oh, its also a 6-speed. is it better/stronger/prettier to connect the torque arm to the chassis instead of by the tail shaft of the transmission?
thanks again for all of the help!
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06-29-2009, 05:21 AM #18
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
you want the T.A to be attached to the chassis ..not the transmission ..transmission mounts put alot of stress on the tailshaft...and when/if your pushing more then stock...that isnt a good idea. so go tunnel mount ..and also go umi (i am basis) they have great customer service and their products are too die for..not to mention umi is still a relatively small company..so the workmanship is there
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06-29-2009, 05:22 AM #19
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
i wouldnt worry about chrome moly personally...you should be fine
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06-29-2009, 07:58 AM #20
do you have your LCA's in the lowest hole on the relocation brackets?
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