Directions for re-tightening my crank pulley??

**jb3golf** · 12-28-2010, 01:33 PM

What up LS1's. Happy Holidays to all. My question is, what must I do to correctly re-tighten my crank pulley? It looks as if it has come loose a bit. Standing above the car, I can see 2-3 threads of the silver portion of the pulley. I don't think I should be seeing that much. I also have been hearing a weird pulling/adjusting noise JUST before my car starts to move while driving. I realize that noise could be my motor mounts, but I'm not sure.

What all do I need to do?? Please tell me I don't need to remove my radiator!! Can I just tighten it as is by putting my T56 in 5th gear?? Any help would be appreciated.

**jb3golf** · 12-28-2010, 01:34 PM

ORION where you at my brother???!! I know you have a competent answer for me!!

**pajeff02** · 12-28-2010, 01:56 PM

I'm not sure if that is a torque to yield fastener or not. If it is, you need to replace it rather than just tighten it back down. Someone who knows will chime in eventually.

**cammed goat** · 12-28-2010, 02:02 PM

Is it an aftermarket/underdrive pulley? Some underdrive pulleys come with a pin and guide for you to drill a keyway between the actual crank and the pulley itself. And, like Jeff said, if the bolt is torque-to-yield, the bolt should NOT be reused.

**Firebirdjones** · 12-28-2010, 03:09 PM

Yes, the crank pulley bolt is torque-to-yield. If it is loose, then a new bolt is required. You'll need a torque-to-yield wrench as well, but I believe there is a ft lbs. torque setting out there that gives you close to the same result if you have to.

**bene** · 12-28-2010, 03:21 PM

First of all...

If your stock crank/aftermarket pulley came loose your belt would have been thrown off and your crank bolt aftermarket (ARP) or stock one would been loose also or completely gone.

Second

When you try to press in your pulley back, use the old one as it shouldn't put that much stress on the crank threads unless your pulley is all the way out or almost there then you need a crank pulley installer (the right one to use not the old bolt)

Third,

Replace the old one w/ a new TTY bolt as these bolts are meant to be used only ONCE. Or buy the ARP crank bolt which can be used multiple times.

You don't need a torque wrench as someone said, it can be done w/o it however it's recommended. I used the angle method w/ a really long breaker bar.

**Firebirdjones** · 12-28-2010, 03:29 PM

You do need the torque wrench to do it correctly.

It's been a few years since I've done mine, but the GM manual says to torque the bolt first to something like 240 ft. lbs.
Then loosen the bolt and torque again to 40 ft lbs. Only then do you use the angle torque wrench and tighten to a certain degree.

This is all off the top of my head so I don't remember exact numbers,,,,but this is the proper GM method.

If you are using an angle wrench or a breaker bar right off the bat and simply marking off a certain degree and tightening the bolt without first doing the sequence I mentioned above,,,,then the bolt was not torqued properly and will more than likely fail at some point.

**cammed goat** · 12-28-2010, 03:32 PM

I agree with FBJ. Head, pinion, crank bolts are all TTY. Better to do things right the first time.

**jb3golf** · 12-28-2010, 06:02 PM

Thanks guys for all your help with this.. Again, it's not loose to where any belts will fall off. It simply appears that the pulley has loosened a bit. In other words, the threads of the pulley itself seem to be showing more than when I tightened it. Are you suppose to see ANY of the silver threading of the pulley when tightened?? That would kind of explain if it's loose or not.

For example, if I put a flashlight into the area where the pulley is seated against the timing cover, I can see 1-3 threadings from pulley.......Looks like I may have to empty my radiator to tighten it.....

**pajeff02** · 12-28-2010, 06:04 PM

Pics? If possible...

**cammed goat** · 12-28-2010, 06:06 PM

Originally Posted by jb3golf

Thanks guys for all your help with this.. Again, it's not loose to where any belts will fall off. It simply appears that the pulley has loosened a bit. In other words, the threads of the pulley itself seem to be showing more than when I tightened it. Are you suppose to see ANY of the silver threading of the pulley when tightened?? That would kind of explain if it's loose or not.

For example, if I put a flashlight into the area where the pulley is seated against the timing cover, I can see 1-3 threadings from pulley.......Looks like I may have to empty my radiator to tighten it.....

You shouldn't have to remove the radiatior. You have a short extension or a deep socket for the pulley bolt?

**jb3golf** · 12-28-2010, 06:27 PM

Originally Posted by cammed goat

You shouldn't have to remove the radiatior. You have a short extension or a deep socket for the pulley bolt?

Yep I sure do. Hopefully I will not need to remove the Radiator......

**jb3golf** · 12-28-2010, 06:29 PM

Hey Guys any special instructions on the tightening?? Do I need to put my T-56 in 5th gear through all this?? Any help would be appreciated.

**0rion** · 12-28-2010, 06:45 PM

I read once somewhere the clearance that pulley should have and I can't find it. Is the sides of your belt chewed up at all or any squeaking coming from up there? Any other reason than you looking at it that would make you think it's loose?
I'm gonna keep looking for that clearance on that pulley but not sure if I can find it again...been a few year since I saw it. The stock bolt is torque to yield so you can't reuse it once you loosen it. The ARP bolt is the way to go. Crank it down to 240 ft/lbs and you're done.
You're better off in 1st gear than 5th.

**jb3golf** · 12-28-2010, 06:59 PM

Originally Posted by 0rion

I read once somewhere the clearance that pulley should have and I can't find it. Is the sides of your belt chewed up at all or any squeaking coming from up there? Any other reason than you looking at it that would make you think it's loose?
I'm gonna keep looking for that clearance on that pulley but not sure if I can find it again...been a few year since I saw it. The stock bolt is torque to yield so you can't reuse it once you loosen it. The ARP bolt is the way to go. Crank it down to 240 ft/lbs and you're done.
You're better off in 1st gear than 5th.

OK thanks!

**Firebirdjones** · 12-29-2010, 07:49 AM

I removed the starter and locked the engine at the flywheel.

Not sure if putting it in gear would work. In my case it wouldn't, because I had the car up in the air on the lift. Easier to access the bolt from under the car. Worth a try though if you are on the ground.

Radiator will be fine. I removed and reinstalled my crank pulley and never touched the radiator or the fans. I even had enough room to install a puller and a crank pulley installation tool.

**jb3golf** · 12-29-2010, 08:57 AM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

I removed the starter and locked the engine at the flywheel.

Not sure if putting it in gear would work. In my case it wouldn't, because I had the car up in the air on the lift. Easier to access the bolt from under the car. Worth a try though if you are on the ground.

Radiator will be fine. I removed and reinstalled my crank pulley and never touched the radiator or the fans. I even had enough room to install a puller and a crank pulley installation tool.

Ok, thanks!

**Smittro** · 12-29-2010, 09:51 AM

Put the parking break on and you can use just about any gear..

**jb3golf** · 12-29-2010, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Put the parking break on and you can use just about any gear..

Nice!! Thanks for the info.

**Cutlass** · 12-29-2010, 06:35 PM

1 Tighten the USED crankshaft balancer bolt to 330 N·m (240 lb ft).
2 Remove the USED crankshaft balancer bolt.
3 The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in)
4 Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt.
5 Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
6 Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees