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  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Fort Branch, Indiana
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    5

    Mystic Teal
    1998 Camaro z28

    Talking Did I get a good deal?

    I recently bought my Mystic Teal 1998 Camaro ls1 a few weeks back, its automatic, grey leather, all power, t-tops... everything is stock on car, even the exhaust lol. it has 113,xxx miles and bought for $4,500. Did I do good?

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Florida Man Status Acheivement
    Posts
    11,759

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Not bad and congratulations, hope it all goes well.

    Is this your 1st LSx/f body car?

    We have a lot of members here that are very knowledgeable on common issues and other stuff. Ask away if you have questions.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert - Stock

    78 FB - Just getting started......

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Fort Branch, Indiana
    Posts
    5

    Mystic Teal
    1998 Camaro z28

    yes this is my first fbody.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Florida Man Status Acheivement
    Posts
    11,759

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Here is some of the common issues that pop up on f-bodies:

    Passenger Window - It dies quicker then the drivers side. Reason is GM ran the + wire to the drivers side and then to the passenger side, by the time it gets there it is under current. There is a cheap ($38) fix from a company called Autotrix. Well worth the $$$, Did mine 5 yrs ago and still have both motors running strong.

    Body flex - When you can, invest in 2pt or 3 pt Subframe Connectors. Our cars are uni-bodies, meaning there is no solid frame from front to rear like most cars, the frame is connected to the body for the front & middle but the compartment area has none. SFC's tie the front & rear together and prevent flexing. There are bolt in and weld in, with bolt in you can always go back and weld in.

    98LS1 - oil pump is weak in it, trust me I know... It will still work fine for daily driving and cruising around but if you are wanting to track it I highly suggest getting either a LS6 oil pump or a Melling 10295 oil pump. You'll see a Melling 10296 but for stock & mild bolt on's stay with the other 2.

    Tune - Check out TunebyFrost.com - he has by far the best mail order tune, even for stock and mild bolt on's like headers.

    Rear - if there is a great weakness on these cars it's the rear 10 bolt. If you're a manual car stay away from Drag Radials or slicks.


    Here is some Tech stickies on other issues and problems that members have come up with fixes.

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/technic...tickies-79083/

  5. #5
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wherever life takes me
    Posts
    12,526

    Red
    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Welcome to the club. Fellow Hoosier here.
    Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tampa Bay
    Posts
    5
    Seems like a pretty fair deal to me

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