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Did I get a bad tune or ???

This is a discussion on Did I get a bad tune or ??? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; that high idle is a sign of un-metered air. Make sure you have the throttle body and everything tightened up ...

  1. #21
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    that high idle is a sign of un-metered air. Make sure you have the throttle body and everything tightened up good and there are no leaks post MAF. You could've knocked a vac line off, leaky air intake tract after the MAF, or something like that. Sounds like there's some un-metered air somewhere. Did you use new IAC and TPS sensors?

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    Brand new Delphi sensors from Napa. The only thing out of the ordinary that I noticed was a crack in the nearly 13 yr old lid(already ordered a new one). I didn't put any stress on the PCV hose when I took it off the throttle body, so I don't think it's the PCV lines. Is there any trick to putting the throttle body on? It seemed pretty straight forward and I remember reading to not over-tighten the TB bolts, I didn't replace the gasket as it looked brand new. Would it be worth putting the old sensors back on to see it acts the same?
    Last edited by 01Hawk#6; 07-19-2013 at 05:22 AM.

  3. #23
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Have you followed the pcv hose all they way around?

    Two of the most common spots for cracking are at the pcv & the Y section on the back side of the intake.

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    Easy check would be to unplug the PCV line from the side of the throttle body and plug off the hole. Start it up and see if there is any difference in the idle. Also, can you confirm that the throttle blade is all the way closed?

  5. #25
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    Well somehow I missed tightening the bellows clamp at the throttle body so it seems that it was indeed getting unmetered air(thanks 0rion!). I double checked the bellows for holes/tears and then tightened it up. It settled down to about 1100 in neutral/park and 900 in gear(which is still a bit high). I'm guessing I should try another idle relearn? I took off the PCV at the intake and plugged it and it didn't sound any different, although I was by myself and had no-one to watch the tach. It seems that the throttle blade is closing all the way, but at the same time it looks like it hits the throttle stop screw.

    BTW, I found my cam card. It's a FMS F13-114 230/232 .595/.585.

  6. #26
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    did you try to drive it? Is it still wanting to surge and stall? That idle is pretty high but do an idle relearn and see if it settles down a little bit. Did you bring it up to temp or were those cold idle numbers? Did it idle long enough for the car to go into closed loop? Basically did it get up to temp? That throttle stop screw is exactly what it sounds like.....the blade will appear to be closed when actually it's cracked just a hair. At those idle numbers I might not adjust that screw because I can almost guarantee the car will want to auto cruise. I would say if the idle doesn't settle down some and it's still wanting to stall it may just be time for a correct tune. The good news is the tuning knowledge and methods are constantly evolving so you'll end up with a much better tune in 2013 than you would've gotten in 2005.

  7. #27
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Also do what Orion suggested earlier - flip the throttle blade screw. Makes for easier adjustments.

  8. #28
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    if you do flip that screw yourself you'll need to check the voltage at the plug with a multimeter so you can put it back to where it is now when you put the screw back in. Much easier and quicker if you have a scan tool.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    if you do flip that screw yourself you'll need to check the voltage at the plug with a multimeter so you can put it back to where it is now when you put the screw back in. Much easier and quicker if you have a scan tool.
    I let it get up to temp but didn't drive it at all. Which plug are you talking about checking the voltage on? I've got a meter but not a scan tool. I'll do the idle relearn again before anything else.

  10. #30
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    I believe he means the TPS.

  11. #31
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    Took the TB off again today to check if the blade was closing all the way. It was staying open a hair, so I adjusted the best I could. After adjusting and putting it back on it settled back down to around 800-850 rpm without an idle relearn. So it'll at least be drivable to get it tuned. I didn't throw the old TPS & IAC away, is there any way to test them off the car and is there a market for reselling them or just hang on to them? Thanks for all your help guys.

  12. #32
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  13. #33
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    Just a little update, got the car re-tuned last week and what a world of difference! No more worries of stalling at stops and I gained another 10rwhp. Some of the things wrong with the first tune: converter set to lock at 40 mph, nothing done to the torque management and we think the hole in the throttle blade may have been enlarged slightly.

    Now to get the guts to throw the drag radials on and make some passes and see if the rear end holds up. What are the stock rears usually good for power wise? I have the Auburn option from SLP when I ordered it.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01Hawk#6 View Post
    Just a little update, got the car re-tuned last week and what a world of difference! No more worries of stalling at stops and I gained another 10rwhp. Some of the things wrong with the first tune: converter set to lock at 40 mph, nothing done to the torque management and we think the hole in the throttle blade may have been enlarged slightly.

    Now to get the guts to throw the drag radials on and make some passes and see if the rear end holds up. What are the stock rears usually good for power wise? I have the Auburn option from SLP when I ordered it.
    stock rear is good for about 100HP less than stock Seriously though......they're not that durable. Being an auto you have a little advantage but not much. Glad you got your issues straightened out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    stock rear is good for about 100HP less than stock Seriously though......they're not that durable. Being an auto you have a little advantage but not much. Glad you got your issues straightened out.
    I figured as much... I hate asking all these newb questions as I've forgot a lot in the several years that I've been 'out of the loop'. I guess I'll have to start saving for a 12 bolt!

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    Congrats on getting things sorted out.

    I was nervous running our car at the track on the stock rear. Swapped out to a 12 bolt and have had zero issues -- definitely a good choice.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 01Hawk#6 View Post
    Just a little update, got the car re-tuned last week and what a world of difference! No more worries of stalling at stops and I gained another 10rwhp. Some of the things wrong with the first tune: converter set to lock at 40 mph, nothing done to the torque management and we think the hole in the throttle blade may have been enlarged slightly.

    Now to get the guts to throw the drag radials on and make some passes and see if the rear end holds up. What are the stock rears usually good for power wise? I have the Auburn option from SLP when I ordered it.
    stock rear is good for about 100HP less than stock Seriously though......they're not that durable. Being an auto you have a little advantage but not much. Glad you got your issues straightened out.
    Best advice.
    It's on jackstands.

  18. #38
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    Check out our sponsors. I helped a fellow member swap in a Strange 12 bolt. The rears on the F-bodies are pretty straight forward to replace.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    You arent really bad mouthing them as you haven't determined it's the tune that needs adjusting. It's just speculation at this point. I just can't believe you'd pay all that money to have it tuned and not take it back immediately if you thought the tune was incorrect.
    X 2 on this comment!!

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