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Dead Battery

This is a discussion on Dead Battery within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Smittro Could'nt you guys use a self returning switch for it? Only on if you hold it ...

  1. #21
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Could'nt you guys use a self returning switch for it? Only on if you hold it on.. I also like aircraft type safety switches. They have a guard over the switch.. When the guard is closed the switch is off.. Possibly somethin' to look into..
    yes and you can also put in a momentary switch that you have to depress and hold. There are a few ways to wire that in. I have mine tucked up out of the way so it's almost impossible to turn mine on by accident.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    yes and you can also put in a momentary switch that you have to depress and hold. There are a few ways to wire that in. I have mine tucked up out of the way so it's almost impossible to turn mine on by accident.
    The only reason I dont like this idea is because I haven't found one that's small enough to mount on the shifter. Do they make one for a shifter application? Otherwise, the switch needs to be some where really convenient, because you need to have your finger on the switch while staging. My car jumps when staging, so you'd need a switch that you can make sure you can get a good hold on, maybe even like a dead-man switch (hand held).

    Just IMO.

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    Mine is hidden in the ashtray compartment.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Mine is hidden in the ashtray compartment.
    In the stock ash tray? Or aftermarket plate? For single pole single throw switch, it works well in either situation. I don't think a momentary would be bad on a aftermarket plate in that location.

    My concern would be with a small momentary switch in a tight place could be dangerous.

    A4 or M6?

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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    In the stock ash tray? Or aftermarket plate? For single pole single throw switch, it works well in either situation. I don't think a momentary would be bad on a aftermarket plate in that location.

    My concern would be with a small momentary switch in a tight place could be dangerous.

    A4 or M6?
    Stock ashtray. Sorry it was a little dirty



    I'm a M6.

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    On our A4 ashtray, there is a small cavity to the right that I mounted the line lock switch in. Almost impossible to accidentally enage it. I did mount the cutout rocker switch in the back wall of the ashtray.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Stock ashtray. Sorry it was a little dirty

    I'm a M6.
    Better location for linelock than a A4, I think, wouldn't be too bad for a momentary, but I would recommend an aftermarket plate like this (emblempros) for a momentary application.

    Again, just my .02

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    Sorry to bring up an old thread, but this problem still exists.

    New battery - dead in a week.

    I am going to disconnect the battery terminals and put my amp meter across the terminals and get a reading. Any idea what the reading should be with the car off? Should it be 0?

    I am thinking that maybe they ran the line-lock switch to the cigarette lighter so even when the switch is "off" it is still drawing off the battery.

    Once I get a reading with the car off, I plan on pulling fuses to see if the reading changes.

    Is this how I go about tracing this SOB down?

    This all started after getting the line-lock installed so I am thinking it HAS to be that. The voltage does not drop at all while cruising around and sitting idle, so I'm pretty sure my alternator is good to go.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Sorry to bring up an old thread, but this problem still exists.

    New battery - dead in a week.

    I am going to disconnect the battery terminals and put my amp meter across the terminals and get a reading. Any idea what the reading should be with the car off? Should it be 0?

    I am thinking that maybe they ran the line-lock switch to the cigarette lighter so even when the switch is "off" it is still drawing off the battery.

    Once I get a reading with the car off, I plan on pulling fuses to see if the reading changes.

    Is this how I go about tracing this SOB down?

    This all started after getting the line-lock installed so I am thinking it HAS to be that. The voltage does not drop at all while cruising around and sitting idle, so I'm pretty sure my alternator is good to go.
    The static draw of a car should be in the milliamps to even the microamps IIRC, I don't think it should get near 1amp though.

    The pulling of the fuses is a good way to tell, especially if it gives you a nice jump in the DMM's (or whatever your using) reading.

    If the draw is low enough, I don't think you would see a voltage change, but it could still be enough to drain the battery.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller View Post
    Is the solenoid wired up to constant or switched power? If you went with an optima it can be fully discharged and not harm the battery. Very good for cars that sit.
    Sorry to jack but do not think that with the red tops... ONLY the yellow and blue top Optima's can be discharged without harm to them because they are deep-cycle batteries.... the red tops WILL die!!!

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Sorry to bring up an old thread, but this problem still exists.

    New battery - dead in a week.

    I am going to disconnect the battery terminals and put my amp meter across the terminals and get a reading. Any idea what the reading should be with the car off? Should it be 0?

    I am thinking that maybe they ran the line-lock switch to the cigarette lighter so even when the switch is "off" it is still drawing off the battery.

    Once I get a reading with the car off, I plan on pulling fuses to see if the reading changes.

    Is this how I go about tracing this SOB down?

    This all started after getting the line-lock installed so I am thinking it HAS to be that. The voltage does not drop at all while cruising around and sitting idle, so I'm pretty sure my alternator is good to go.
    Draw test directions:
    Set meter to amps
    disconnect neg battery terminal.
    hook meter leads up. One lead to the neg battery terminal and one to the neg cable. WARNING:now all the electricity flowing through the car is flowing through your meter. Hopefully it has an internal fuse you can replace, because if too much current flows through, it'll blow. So don't open the door, try to start the car,etc. that might cause too much current flow through your meter.

    Normal parasitic draw is less then 25 miliAmps (.025 amps)

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