Dead Battery

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-01-2010, 01:35 PM

So I got a new battery last summer and about right when the weather started turning cold this year the battery went dead. I charged it and after the car sat for a week unstarted, it died again. This happened several times until finally the battery wouldn't take a full charge anymore.

So I went to Autozone and got a new battery and installed it. Car sat the last week and now this new battery is dead.

Where should I start? The terminals are clean. While driving around with the new battery installed I didn't notice any voltage drops at all so I don't think it is my alternator.

The only things I've had installed on the car this year are shocks/springs/PHB and a line-lock.

I don't know what could be drawing power from the battery with the car off. I didn't even set the alarm on it this last time.

**Tyler_LS1** · 11-01-2010, 02:05 PM

My buddies line lock was draining his batt. But he was using it as an ebrake, you sure your linelock isn't drawing any current?

**KMdef9** · 11-01-2010, 02:17 PM

Disconnect the battery and do a static current test. Connect an ammeter to each wire harness. I'm not positive, but it should be in the milliamps, anything higher you have a short somewhere.

**0rion** · 11-01-2010, 09:43 PM

what type of switch is on your line lock? Is it an on/off with a momentary switch or is it a toggle? What I'm getting at is could that be on causing the drain? If not then I would start pulling fuses using a volt meter to see if there's a drop when a fuse is pulled which will at least point you toward the guilty circuit.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-02-2010, 07:54 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

what type of switch is on your line lock? Is it an on/off with a momentary switch or is it a toggle? What I'm getting at is could that be on causing the drain? If not then I would start pulling fuses using a volt meter to see if there's a drop when a fuse is pulled which will at least point you toward the guilty circuit.

It is a toggle switch. I can almost guarantee now that it is probably set to the "on" position. It's in the ash tray.

I will check it when I get home. If I remember right, this happened after the last time I went to the track....I bet that is it!

If it helps any, it is the SLP line-lock.

**pajeff02** · 11-02-2010, 08:48 AM

Let us know Jon -- there is a real easy way to do a draw test if the line lock is not the issue.

**bigrondownhiller** · 11-02-2010, 03:12 PM

Do you have an optima?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-03-2010, 07:36 AM

I haven't had time to recharge the new battery yet. However, the toggle switch was forward. I don't recall if this is "on" or "off"

as it isn't labeled.

I'm hoping to get the battery charger on it tonight.

Big - I have a Duralast Gold battery.

**0rion** · 11-03-2010, 08:06 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I haven't had time to recharge the new battery yet. However, the toggle switch was forward. I don't recall if this is "on" or "off"

as it isn't labeled.

I'm hoping to get the battery charger on it tonight.

Big - I have a Duralast Gold battery.

not knowing the position of that switch could be dangerous....need to label it or something. Just take some red paint or the wifes fingernail polish and put a red dot in the "on" position.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-03-2010, 10:34 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

not knowing the position of that switch could be dangerous....need to label it or something. Just take some red paint or the wifes fingernail polish and put a red dot in the "on" position.

Let's say the switch was set to "on". Would this just mean that the solenoid would have a constant power?

What other adverse effects could there be? I understand how the line-lock works, but perhaps I don't understand it fully. When it is off and I depress the brake pedal, then switch the toggle to the on, I understand it "locks" or "closes" the brake line running to the rears which would allow the rears to not have brake fluid pressure and stay off while the fronts received pressure.

Now assuming I left it on or turned it on without decompressing the brake, would the rears still not have braking power? That part is a little cloudy to me.

**pajeff02** · 11-03-2010, 11:49 AM

I never checked mine to see what happens if you flip the switch and then apply the brakes.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-03-2010, 12:30 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I never checked mine to see what happens if you flip the switch and then apply the brakes.

I am not sure really since there would be no pressure in the line at that point.

Assuming it was set to "on" and I didn't hit the brakes...I drove my car around like this for about 1-2 months...which would be probably 7-10 times. I didn't notice any degradation as far as braking was concerned.

I'll know more tonight once I get my battery charged. I might do a burnout in the f'in driveway just to check the positioning of the switch...and just because

**bigrondownhiller** · 11-03-2010, 12:47 PM

Is the solenoid wired up to constant or switched power? If you went with an optima it can be fully discharged and not harm the battery. Very good for cars that sit.

**0rion** · 11-03-2010, 12:52 PM

you're looking at it backwards......the solenoid holds pressure on the fronts not release pressure on the rears. That's why you can set the switch with the brakes applied and do your burnout and release the switch and roll out of the burnout.

**KMdef9** · 11-03-2010, 02:20 PM

If it's switched power, which it should be, then the next time you shut your car off the solenoid should shutdown and shouldn't be draining your battery. If you have constant power, and leave the switch on, the solenoid is active and using current. I can't imagine you left it on, you would grind the hell out of your brakes or would have no braking power when driving. As Orion said, the linelock system locks the pressure when power is applied to the solenoid, whatever it maybe, into the front brakes, keeping your rears fully functional.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-08-2010, 04:55 AM

OK fellas. The line lock was definitely "on" because up is on. As soon as I hit the brakes with the switch already up the car stopped rolling and the brakes were set.

I have no idea how the switch got to the "on" position. It certainly had to have been set to on after the car was parked because I would have noticed the brakes grinding.

I charged the battery last night and drove the car around a good 45 minutes to an hour. The voltage did not drop at all while idling. I went out this morning after having the car sit since 8PM last night (almost 12 hours) and she fired right up.

I'll get an eye on the battery voltage with my meter to see if it drops any over sitting a few days. If it does I know something else is drawing from it.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-08-2010, 04:57 AM

To add, I called Speed Inc to ask about the line lock position being set to on and if that would be a constant draw. They said it would.

**KMdef9** · 11-08-2010, 07:53 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

To add, I called Speed Inc to ask about the line lock position being set to on and if that would be a constant draw. They said it would.

Makes sense, the solenoid requires power to lock the line pressure.

Glad to hear it was a easy problem.

I would change the power source to a switched source, so when your cars off so is the solenoid. Also, maybe a lit switch so you will be able to see it's in the "on" position.

**Smittro** · 11-08-2010, 09:21 AM

Could'nt you guys use a self returning switch for it? Only on if you hold it on.. I also like aircraft type safety switches. They have a guard over the switch.. When the guard is closed the switch is off.. Possibly somethin' to look into..

**Blackbird WS6** · 11-08-2010, 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Could'nt you guys use a self returning switch for it? Only on if you hold it on.. I also like aircraft type safety switches. They have a guard over the switch.. When the guard is closed the switch is off.. Possibly somethin' to look into..

true, just so dam big, kinda stick out sometimes BUT Jon has his hidden so that shouldnt be a problem