Damn belt is squeaking AGAIN!
This is a discussion on Damn belt is squeaking AGAIN! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I thought the old remedy to figure out which belt is squeaking was to spray WD-40 on each belt while ...
11-16-2006, 12:08 PM #1
Damn belt is squeaking AGAIN!
I thought the old remedy to figure out which belt is squeaking was to spray WD-40 on each belt while the engine is running. Which ever one stopped sqeaking, that was the one that needs replacing. Well, I tried that this time and now both damn belts squeak louder with higher rpms!
Although that was yesterday, so thankfully its just down to the regular squeaks and they only occur around 1200-2000 RPMS, not at idle.
Bottom line, shit needs to be replaced. Can someone please post up part numbers of BOTH tensioners? How about belts too? I have the ASP pulley, so I dont remember if that makes a difference.
I replaced everything maybe 1.5 year(s) ago.
11-16-2006, 01:01 PM #2
Try taking off the A/C belt completly so that does not turn at all and then see if your squeak happens. The A/C tensioner from my experiences does seem to go bad and start to squeak. Sorry I don't know the part # but just call a dealer and ask for the lower tensioner for your car. As far as the top tensioner I would say get one of the fixed ones like the Ktech, Comp, there are some others also. These work much better than spring loaded tensioners.98 T/A: HPE 5.3 Heads, 238/242 113 cam, Kooks 1 7/8 stepped LT headers, Custom Y pipe, Cut out, Borla, NW 90MM TB, FAST 90MM Intake, TB Bypass, Under Drive Power steering and Crank, 150 Dry NOS, Yella Terra rockers, 3400 TC, HPE tuning,
11-16-2006, 03:25 PM #3
Yeah, I was thinking about getting COMPs tensioner, in fact, I even made a thread about it a couple weeks ago.
There used to be a guy on here that could find ANY part number for our cars. God damnit, where did he go...99 T/A M6
LS6 intake, Hooker Coated Long Tubes, Y-pipe w/1 carsound cat, Hooker Catback, MTi Clear Lid, FRA w/ Holley Power Shot, ASP crank pulley, 1.8 RRs, 3.73s w/TA girdle & Eaton Differential, Granatelli SFCs, Pro 5.0 Shifter, LS6 Clutch, Diablo, TByrnes Maf Ends (in winter), All the Free Mods
11-16-2006, 08:14 PM #4
12560344 Drive belt tensioner (top) GM List: 87.12 GM Parts Direct: 51.65
12564401 Pulley, belt idler (water pump pulley) GM List: 48.46 GMPD: 28.72
Those are from a CD I have that is supposed to list all part numbers for 93-02 F-bodies. I looked at the diagram and those two numbers I know are correct. I couldn't find the smaller belt for some reason, and the number it shows for the serpentine doesn't come up in GMPD, probably an old number.
However, I did find some numbers I had written down from some TSB awhile back, and these are supposed to be the correct numbers for both belts, they do come up in GMPD, of course they only say "engine drive belt", but they should be the right numbers also. Might want to double check with a dealer though.
12569527 Engine drive belt GM List: 35.30 GMPD: 20.92
12569529 Engine drive belt GM List: 18.11 GMPD: 10.73
Hope this helps.
11-16-2006, 08:58 PM #5
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Bakersfield/Long Beach Ca
- 04 GTO M6
Just go to a Chevy or Pontiac dealers parts depo and say you need new belts, they will guide you in the right direction.
11-17-2006, 03:38 PM #6
11-17-2006, 05:57 PM #7
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
I've had good luck with Goodyear Gatorback belts. Almost always cures the squeaky belt issue, if it is indeed a belt. Could be tensioner like other people say.
BTW, I see you have a Diablo in your sig. I am thinking about getting one since I just installed my LT Hookers with ORY. I need to lean the car out now and eliminate my many PCM codes. How do you like it? Is it worth my while to get a Diablo and mess with the A/F? Or will that not have enough capabilities for my car, which only has a lid, low restriction muffler and now these Hookers.
11-18-2006, 07:38 AM #8
Um, well the Diablo is good for what it does, but I am really shooting in the dark with it. To really get the most out of it, I have to strap the car to a dyno and tune it that way. If I did that, I might as well get a dyno shop to tune it themselves.
Is it good for a "tune in a box?" No.
Is it good for advanced users with data from other resources? yes.
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