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Cruise Control in engine swap

This is a discussion on Cruise Control in engine swap within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Can someone help me with wiring the cruise. I have swapped a 2002 ls1 engine into a 36 chevy pickup ...

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    Angry Cruise Control in engine swap

    Can someone help me with wiring the cruise. I have swapped a 2002 ls1 engine into a 36 chevy pickup with a 4l60E trans. I have classic gauges. I have found the wires from the TAC and have a 4 position switch mounted on the dash. I need to know what wires it takes to operate the cruise. Will the cruise work using only wires from the TAC or do I need to power the switch and will I need a wire from the speedo or tach?

    Any help would be appreciated. I worked on this thing all day Saturday.

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    I have the factory books for the '02 and will be glad to assist. Are you running a factory or aftermarket harness? How about the PCM?

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    Quote Originally Posted by insadj2 View Post
    Can someone help me with wiring the cruise. I have swapped a 2002 ls1 engine into a 36 chevy pickup with a 4l60E trans. I have classic gauges. I have found the wires from the TAC and have a 4 position switch mounted on the dash. I need to know what wires it takes to operate the cruise. Will the cruise work using only wires from the TAC or do I need to power the switch and will I need a wire from the speedo or tach?

    Any help would be appreciated. I worked on this thing all day Saturday.
    I am running a harnes from fast wire. I had the computer flashed by street & performance. It is drive by wire.

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    That is going to be different from what a stock '02 had as they all came with cable actuated throttle bodies. I should still be able to provide info on the correct signal and power wires though -- will post up tomorrow evening as I am getting ready to shut down for the night here.

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    Here is an email I sent to Street & perf. Mark replied I need a momentary switch which I have. Not much help.


    Writing you from Knoxville Tn. I know you talk to a lot of people. I have an old guy “Donnie” who has been helping me for some time build a 36 Chevy truck with ls1. I know he has called you several times. He has been battling health issues and is currently laid up after surgery. We had you re-program the computer and purchase various other things from you guys. Anyway. After 9 years we have her running, paint complete and doing the final assembly. But I cannot figure out how to make the cruise work. I have a dash mounted 4 way switch that I am pretty sure we got from you guys a couple years back. In short I have no instructions with the exception of a sheet that was hand written by you with the C1 (etc) connections from the TCA box. I have those wires identified and pulled out but looks like I would need a positive to run the switch and make everything work. Then looks like I would need a wire from the speedo or something? Can you help me? What wires do I need in addition to the 4 from the TCA box. Oh I guess you figured I was running drive by wire. I am. One other thing. My switch has 5 wires coming from it.



    Any help would be great.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Sounds good. Thank u

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    I'll see what I can do to assist.

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    Quote Originally Posted by insadj2 View Post
    I am running a harnes from fast wire. I had the computer flashed by street & performance. It is drive by wire.
    If it drive by wire it's a piece of cake. However you would have to specify to Fast Wire that you want to use the cruise and then they should have stubbed the wires out for you and labeled them (actually if they were decent they would have asked you when ordering). Then all you have to do is buy a controller, hook it up and run with it. If you ask Fast Wire they should be more than willing to send you a schematic at no charge.

    I use Howell for my custom wire harness LS swaps and they always send along the wire schematics for the cruise to make the switch hookup a snap.

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    FBJ - cruise control on ETC equipped cars is all through the stepper motor on the throttle body? I guess that makes sense - never really played with one yet. All I know is that I can't stand the ETC on my Caddie. It is not very responsive coming off idle and has made pulling out into traffic a bit more interesting than necessary quite a few times.

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    Thanks for all the input. Fastwire is no longer in business. I purchased the harness a long time back. They did stub the wires out and I have a controller (dash mounted) Used the factory stamatic to wire from the tac box. Problem is I am not sure I am correct. I wired the on and off as the instructions reflect. The momentary switch has three positions. It also says that the brake light has to be wired back into the lt blue wire from the tac. It also states that the system must see the resistance from the brake light bulb. I have not hooked up the brake light but I would think it would only shut off the cruise anyway. I have put way too many hours into this issue. Any suggestions? Thanks again

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    FBJ - cruise control on ETC equipped cars is all through the stepper motor on the throttle body? I guess that makes sense - never really played with one yet. All I know is that I can't stand the ETC on my Caddie. It is not very responsive coming off idle and has made pulling out into traffic a bit more interesting than necessary quite a few times.
    Yep. I'm not a fan of the electronic throttle either, the only thing good I can say about it is that it does make cruise control easy to adapt on a retro swap because you aren't messing with servo's and cables, but that's about it.

    On the responsivness I always go into the tune and tweak the tables to make it more active. GM also uses some torque management tables through the electronic throttle body which I also eliminate. Once that's done it's pretty snappy. I'm still not a fan of it though just because I'm still old school and prefer a direct link with my right foot

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    Quote Originally Posted by insadj2 View Post
    Thanks for all the input. Fastwire is no longer in business. I purchased the harness a long time back. They did stub the wires out and I have a controller (dash mounted) Used the factory stamatic to wire from the tac box. Problem is I am not sure I am correct. I wired the on and off as the instructions reflect. The momentary switch has three positions. It also says that the brake light has to be wired back into the lt blue wire from the tac. It also states that the system must see the resistance from the brake light bulb. I have not hooked up the brake light but I would think it would only shut off the cruise anyway. I have put way too many hours into this issue. Any suggestions? Thanks again
    Do you mean to tell me Fastwire didn't label your cruise wires? Howell always sends my harness's with labels, and the cruise wires are always labeled with "coast" "accel" "brake switch" etc.... So when I get a control switch with wires, even if they aren't color coded the same I still know I'm hooking up the wires correctly. It's like connecting the dots, very easy. Then run keyed power to the control switch and I'm in business. The hardest part is finding a nice place to mount the switch that isn't an eye sore and still easy to reach.
    If it's not labeled clearly like I mentioned above then it's going to be a guessing game, because the control switches I've bought seem to differ in color coded wires, they aren't all the same.

    On the brake light switch you are correct, it just shuts the cruise down, which is a necessity. If not hooked up that way and you get into a panic situation and hit the brakes, the engine will still be pushing you making it impossible to stop. In an emergency you won't be thinking you need to reach over and flip it off by hand, and even if you did think of it, you likely wouldn't have time for that anyway in a panic situation.
    If doing a manual transmission with the swap, I also run the wire to the clutch pedal as well just as the factory did.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 11-13-2013 at 08:06 AM.

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    Thanks, FBJ.

    Well, that explains why I couldn't find any info on Fast Wire on the internet. The "resistance" statement may simply mean that it needs to run through a regular light bulb as opposed to an LED.


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