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Crap...got a security light

This is a discussion on Crap...got a security light within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Yup...damn light stayed on the whole time I was driving tonight...about a hour. The car still starts and runs great ...

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    Crap...got a security light

    Yup...damn light stayed on the whole time I was driving tonight...about a hour. The car still starts and runs great still...pretty weird Is there a actual PASS II module that might have gone bad? I don't think it's the key or the ignition cylinder because the car still starts...could this be a sign of either one getting worn?? Any ideas?

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    1999 Chevrolet Camaro Z28

    GM didn't use a good idea of making a connection between the key cylinder and
    the wires running down the steering shaft housing.

    The solder connecting the two white wires to the key cylinder breaks after some use (read starting/shutting down).

    Now it can't read the resistance of the key, so the security light shows up reminding you that.

    2 ways now, it's either you pay about $300 to have the key cylinder replaced or wire in a resistor of the same value of your PASS KEY II chip on your key and be done with it.

    Having the key cylinder replaced will be provided a new set of keys. The resistance will be the same since it has to match your BCM (Body Control Module) but the cut is different (to turn the key cylinder)

    If you do pick the route to get the key cylinder replaced, put black tape holding the two white wires to the key cylinder so it rotates with it instead of twisting itself off after some use.

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    This blows...guess my new rotor money is going to have to go towards a new cylinder. So it's either the bcm or the cylinder....the factory alarm is bypassed already and I tried the spare key and the light's still on. So it's $300 just for the cylinder?

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    1999 Chevrolet Camaro Z28

    Quote Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn
    This blows...guess my new rotor money is going to have to go towards a new cylinder. So it's either the bcm or the cylinder....the factory alarm is bypassed already and I tried the spare key and the light's still on. So it's $300 just for the cylinder?
    Aprox $300, that's what I found out 2-3 yrs ago.

    How is the factory alarm bypassed?
    You can bypass the key cylinder with a resistor wired in series with the two tiny white wires going down the steering column to a small black connector.

    What I did was read the resistance value of the key chip, went to radio shack and got a 1/4 watts resistor with the correct resistance and then I cut the wires from the connector to the key cylinder and soldered a resistor in series with it.
    Now it starts without the security light.

    And this way I can always disconnect the resistor via the connector if it's going to be used for a long term storage such as at a rental storage place or a not so safe area.

    Spare key or not, it's still the same. The connection is broken at the key cylinder, there is nothing wrong with the keys.

    You couldo that and spend only a few dollars and a bit of your time and still get the rotors. I did not opt for the $300 key cylinder.

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    Impounded YoMommasTA's Avatar
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    Silver
    Bullets
    key failures.)
    GM No-Crank in vehicles with
    Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS)
    A No-Crank condition in GM vehicles with Vehicle Anti-Theft Systems may be caused by either a bad igintion key or a
    problem in the ignition switch/VATS wiring harness. (Switch/harness assembly problems seem to be more common than
    Test 1) Check the ignition key. Each key contains a resistance pellet. Remove the key and check the pellet’s resistance.
    The chart below shows possible resistance values for ignition keys. If the key resistance matches one of the chart values,
    go to Test 2. If the key’s resistance value doesn’t match one of the values in the chart, replace it with a new one. Your
    GM dealer can provide part number information if you give him the VAT module identification number.
    Test 2) Insert the ignition key in the ignition switch. Remove the lower dash bezel. Locate the two-terminal white connector
    near the base of the steering column, and disconnect it. (See the next tip for a schematic.) Insert your ohmmeter
    leads across the terminals of the connector half containing the white wires and measure the resistance. The resistance
    value measured across the connector should match the key resistance. If it doesn’t, then the problem is in the switch/
    harness assembly. Replace the assembly.
    Resistance Value Chart for GM VATs (Lists possible resistance values, including acceptable ranges)
    • 402 ohms (acceptable range 386-438)
    • 523 ohms (acceptable range 502-564)
    • 681 ohms (acceptable range 650-728)
    • 887 ohms (acceptable range 850-942)
    • 1130 ohms (acceptable range 1085-1195)
    • 1470 ohms (acceptable range 1411-1549)
    • 1870 ohms (acceptable range 1795-1965)
    • 2370 ohms (acceptable range 2275-2485)
    • 3010 ohms (acceptable range 2890-3150)
    • 3740 ohms (acceptable range 3590-3910)
    • 4750 ohms (acceptable range 4560-4960)
    • 6040 ohms (acceptable range 5798-6302)
    • 7500 ohms (acceptable range 7200-7820)
    • 9530 ohms (acceptable range 9149-9931)
    • 11800 ohms (acceptable range 11328-12292)
    Key/Switch
    Temporary Fix for GM No-Crank in Vehicles
    with Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS)
    White Connector
    Ignition Key
    with
    Resistance
    Pellet
    VATS
    Module
    White wires
    from Ignition Wire colors
    to VATS module
    typically a color
    other than white
    VATS
    Module in the key.
    Silver
    Bullets
    Experience suggests that VAT
    ignition key failures are less
    common than no-cranking conditions
    caused by switch/harness
    failures.
    If you need to start a car to get it
    into the shop, try this:
    • Remove the ignition key and
    measure the resistance of the pellet
    • Drop the steering column bezel
    and disconnect the white wire
    connector.
    Resistor Bypasses Ignition Key
    • Connect your sensor simulator across the terminals of the harness connected to the VATS module and “dial in” a
    resistance equal to the key pellet resistance, or simply insert a fixed resistor of the correct value.
    This bypasses the key/harness and, in many instances, it will allow you to start the vehicle and drive it into the shop.
    Last edited by YoMommasTA; 03-31-2006 at 02:06 PM.

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    Impounded YoMommasTA's Avatar
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    i tried to attach a pdf that explains more but the site won't let me????

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    Cool..thanks for the info guys, it's really helpful. I'm going to ohm check the wires and see if it's the cylinder for sure before I buy a new one. I would do the resistor bypass but i'd rather get the vats working again....I don't live in the nicest place in the world. I realize that it's easy for a car thief to get past the system, but at least it eliminates the theives that just shove a screwdriver in. And the ones that know what they're doing...i'm sure they'd rather jack a vette Good news is I already have a multi-meter

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    Tech Junkie hammertime's Avatar
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    Pewter Metallic
    2001 Camaro SS

    I haven't seen the cylinder, but isn't it worth trying to resolder the connection first.

    Secondly, if your alarm has been bypassed, then you may as well just put the resistor in as stated. Save your money for those rotors.
    Hammer - hammertime.us
    2001 Light Pewter Metallic Camaro SS, 6 speed
    K&N, SLP Lid, SLP y-pipe, GMMG cat-back, Lou's Short Stick - more to come!

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammertime
    I haven't seen the cylinder, but isn't it worth trying to resolder the connection first.

    Secondly, if your alarm has been bypassed, then you may as well just put the resistor in as stated. Save your money for those rotors.
    Not sure about the connection...but that's a good idea, i'll check it out when I pull it. The factory alarm is bypassed because I have a aftermarket alarm installed...i'm wayyy too paranoid not to have a pager car alarm...shit goes off and i'm runnin out there with my .40

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    Pewter Metallic
    2000 Trans Am WS-6

    Same Light

    My 2000 Trans Am WS6 is doing the same thing. I went in the store and
    when I came out and fired it up the light stayed on to this day. This was about 5 weeks ago. I can't figure out why, if the wires are broke loose from the lock, the car still cranks. It wouldn't be getting the right res. going to the VATS box. Really it is not getting any res. signal at all which should act like the wrong key is in the lock. My car still cranks and runs the same but the light stays on. Don't make sense. It souldn't crank.
    Also what kind if pager system do you have, I have been wanting to put one on my Bird and also on my 1967 GTO.
    Billy A

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    It's a python 680xp...it's a really good alarm for the price...it looks identical to a viper and has all the same features...made by the same company. Why it has 2 diff names is beyond me...probably a marketing thing.

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    Impounded YoMommasTA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BA2157
    My 2000 Trans Am WS6 is doing the same thing. I went in the store and
    when I came out and fired it up the light stayed on to this day. This was about 5 weeks ago. I can't figure out why, if the wires are broke loose from the lock, the car still cranks. It wouldn't be getting the right res. going to the VATS box. Really it is not getting any res. signal at all which should act like the wrong key is in the lock. My car still cranks and runs the same but the light stays on. Don't make sense. It souldn't crank.
    Also what kind if pager system do you have, I have been wanting to put one on my Bird and also on my 1967 GTO.
    Billy A
    because if the wire breaks while the key is on the system continues to let you start and use the car.it only disables the car if it thinks its being stolen.so if the wire breaks as you turn the key on before it starts you are screwed.if it breaks after you start the security light comes on and stays on but the car continues to run normally.

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    Pewter Metallic
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    OOOHHHH, I see. Guess I got lucky for a change. With my luck it should have broke while I was trying to crank it, miles from the house, late at night, in the middle of a lighten and thunder storm right after changing a flat.
    I,ll check on the python 680xp, sounds like what I am hunting.
    thanks
    Billy A

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    Red
    Does any of this info apply to a 95 Camaro Z28 because my car does the same thing. IT always has the security light on but still runs

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    hey severe, does that alarm have a starter kill? Mine has a starter kill so without the remote I can't start it either way, the key does nothing. (I do have an emergency override switch hidden just in case) If yours is the same bypassing the vats won't matter since the key cylinder won't start it regardless

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by z_driver1
    hey severe, does that alarm have a starter kill? Mine has a starter kill so without the remote I can't start it either way, the key does nothing. (I do have an emergency override switch hidden just in case) If yours is the same bypassing the vats won't matter since the key cylinder won't start it regardless
    It's an option for my alarm...can't remember if the installer did the starter kill or not. I'm gonna call the dude in the morning...if it does then I might just bypass the vats. Even if he didn't do the starter kill it'll be cheaper to have him do it then replace the cylinder. Thanks for the idea bro

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    Impounded YoMommasTA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RapidoBandido
    Does any of this info apply to a 95 Camaro Z28 because my car does the same thing. IT always has the security light on but still runs
    yep

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    Red
    Thanks

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