Results 1 to 15 of 15
Like Tree2Likes
  • 1 Post By johngoodman
  • 1 Post By SMWS6TA

Crack In Block

This is a discussion on Crack In Block within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I was pulling my engine this morning, and was transferring it from the hoist to the engine stand. That's when ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    46
    RV-10

    Crack In Block

    I was pulling my engine this morning, and was transferring it from the hoist to the engine stand. That's when I saw a crack at one of the bolt holes on the back of the engine, above the flywheel. Photo attached.
    Where do I go from here?
    John
    PS: I've edited this post with more photos.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by johngoodman; 07-23-2016 at 11:44 AM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator
    pajeff02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Mansfield, PA
    Posts
    21,252

    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    The block is aluminum - the crack can be ground out and welded. Just make sure it is done by someone who knows how to properly do it.

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    46
    RV-10

    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    The block is aluminum - the crack can be ground out and welded. Just make sure it is done by someone who knows how to properly do it.
    Thanks! I was hoping that would be the case. One more question - do I have to take the heads off? The reason I ask is that I just got the driver's side one back on.
    John

  4. #4
    Super Moderator
    pajeff02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Mansfield, PA
    Posts
    21,252

    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    That would be up to your welder. I would actually think that leaving everything sealed up is better as there will be some grinding involved.

  5. #5
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,201

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    wow talk about catching it in time.


    Where is this on the block?

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    46
    RV-10

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    wow talk about catching it in time.


    Where is this on the block?
    The crack is a bolt hole on the back of the engine, near the top, and on the driver's side. In the photos you can see the flywheel, and the shiny part above it is the driver's side head.
    John

  7. #7
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,201

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    OK, Usually if there is a crack it effects the starter mount. This is a first for me to see it on this side.

  8. #8
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wherever life takes me
    Posts
    12,393

    Red
    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Ouch. Let us know how it turns out.
    It's on jackstands.

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    46
    RV-10

    OK, here is an update on the crack at the bolt hole. I've got the engine at a shop right now, and the guy is prepping to weld it. Turns out the crack is completely through the boss, and it actually came off in his hand when he was prepping it. Our plan is to grind down a little, so there is room for new metal. Then, put a stud in it, so that it will stay in place. Welding comes last. This guy knows what he's doing.
    John
    pajeff02 likes this.

  10. #10
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wherever life takes me
    Posts
    12,393

    Red
    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Good luck. Take some pics if you can.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    46
    RV-10

    I got the engine back. He did a great job. He took off the flywheel, the Rear Main Seal cover, and gasket. He then taped everything up with masking tape. Now I've got to put it back together. The RMS is new for me. I understand that most folks replace the seal, along with the gasket. I also understand that there are some special tools needed. I don't suppose that there is a "how to" somewhere....

  12. #12
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,201

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    You can do it with a straight edge metal ruler.


    Loosely attach the rear cover with gasket and RMS already installed. Get the bolts close enough to hold in place but not to where you can't move the cover.
    Next using the metal ruler place it along the edge that the oil pan attaches to and adjust the rear cover. Check both sides. Now tighten a couple of bolts preferly near the oil pan. Now I put a dab of rtv where the rear cover, & gasket meet the oil pan. Not a ton, just a dab. Now hand tighten the oil pan on leaving the 2 long bolts that go thru the oil pan into the rear cover last. Tighten the oil pan to spec. Now insert the 2 long bolts and torque to spec, IN LBS here, not FT LBS. Or you'll be seriously cussing. Now tighten the rear cover bolts to spec. I have not had any issues or leaks doing it this way. Also make sure that barbell didn't fall out when the rear cover was off or you'll have no oil pressure.
    pajeff02 likes this.

  13. #13
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    46
    RV-10

    I've ordered a new RMS, which I'll install with an alignment tool from SacCityCorvette that I got my hands on. Should I get a new rear cover gasket? The original looks to be in great shape.

  14. #14
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL
    Posts
    10,201

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    IMHO yes. They're not that expensive and to have a potential future leak that is a PITA to fix later. Cheap insurance is how I look at it.

  15. #15
    Super Moderator
    pajeff02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Mansfield, PA
    Posts
    21,252

    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Glad you were able to get it fixed.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Help: weird crack
    By tep98ws6 in forum Appearance Section
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-10-2013, 05:42 PM
  2. Put the crack pipe down
    By Danger731 in forum Almost Anything Goes
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 02-01-2011, 06:36 PM
  3. i found crack
    By LS-T in forum Almost Anything Goes
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 06-15-2008, 11:19 PM
  4. Smoking crack? anyone?
    By ztrouble in forum Almost Anything Goes
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 11-16-2006, 12:52 PM
  5. Coloradoans get first crack.
    By Shpoone in forum Rocky Mountain Members
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-25-2006, 02:15 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •