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Thread: Could this be a computer issue?
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10-26-2010, 05:16 AM #1
Could this be a computer issue?
Bought a 2000 Camaro SS about 7 weeks ago.
While driving, the car would hesitate once in awhile when accelerating which progressively became worse. The car needed a new alternator and right after I replaced it the car started running really bad. Rough and low idle and would hesitate when hitting the gas. Eventually the SES light illuminated and began to blink off and on which resulted in a misfire code and O2 sensor codes. The car struggled to go over 25 mph. The O2 sensors were replaced, the car ran slightly better and the codes went away but still something was defiantly wrong.. I replaced the spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, air filter and cleaned the MAF and added some Seafoam to the fuel but it still had a low idle, sluggish throttle response and the car loses power and hesitates at exactly 2500 rpms consistently. Also the ASR light has recently started illuminating every once in awhile. It threw codes 0171 and 0174 which eventually went away.
It seemed as though the car would run better every time I drove it when all of a sudden the SES illuminated again and started flashing and went back to running really bad as in almost no acceleration and some backfiring. I let the car sit for about 15 min and then was able to drive to home without much trouble. Pulled the codes which were 0171, 0174, 0301, 0704, and 1133. Could this be a computer issue??? My mechanic friend swears it is.
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10-26-2010, 08:56 AM #2
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[]D [] []V[] []D- 1999 trans am
when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter... check your fuel pressure, clean the maf again, make sure the air filter is clean... also it is possible to get crapped out 02 sensors... amek sure your cats aren't clogged as well...
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10-26-2010, 08:57 AM #3
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10-26-2010, 09:47 AM #4
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10-26-2010, 10:11 AM #5
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[]D [] []V[] []D- 1999 trans am
when you cleaned the maf what did oyu clean it with??? there are very small sensors on there that are easily broken... other than that make sure the wire plugs are all back in place... (i once started my car with the maf not plugged in)... i'd still check to make sure you have good fuel pressure... you can buy a FP tester for like $4.00 at an auto parts store...
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10-26-2010, 10:29 AM #6
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Here are several possible answers, any and all it could be.
1) Did it do this while test driving the car or just came on after the O2 were replaced? Did you get the correct O2 sensors? Did a wire get broke or not connected Parts clerks (I use that term loosely) these days know jack shit about cars. If the computer doesn't tell them they don't know jack.
2) It almost sounds like your computer is in limp mode. Idling at 2500 rpms, under power and sluggish, were the same symptoms along with a dead battery that my alternator gave up the ghost. I needed to replace the Alt, Battery and a PS Pump. My Alt died from a PS pump leak.
3) Go over everything one more time. A loose spark plug can cause all of this, a wire that is disconnected or broke for a coil pack same thing as a bad coil. Not sure how to test a coil pack. Someone else might chip in on how too.
4) Do you know if the previous owner used a chip programmer? A shitty programmer can seriously screw up everything. Frost would be a better person to ask about this. In case you didn't know, he's our resident tuner and does excellent work.
5) Low fuel pressure, Spaz may be on to something here. Bad fuel pumps are not uncommon.
6) Clotted Cats = new LT Headers & ORY if possible
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10-26-2010, 01:02 PM #7
-MAF was cleaned with CRC electrical parts cleaner and I inspected it and found no discrepencies
-The car showed no signs of a performance issue when test driving
-The hestitation progressively got worse, occured before and after the O2 sensors were replaced. Bosch Part #13444
-The car doesn't idle at 2500 rpm but hesitates at that rpm consistently when not doing it randomly at different rpms
-The previous owner did use a Powerchips handheld programmer which my friend re-flashed the computer with right after the alternator install
Thanks for taking the time to help guys.
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10-26-2010, 05:39 PM #8
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1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
Any modifications to the car (aftermarket MAF, Headers, throttle body, cam, etc??)
P0171 and P0174 are lean codes and usually indicate a bad MAF, loose or disconnected intake duct after the MAF, low fuel pressure, or a large vacuum leak. These 2 codes fit well into your driveability issues and should be where you start concentrating your diagnosis efforts.
P0301 is an engine misfire on cyl #1. Usually a spark plug or plug wire issue. Can also be a bad/clogged fuel injector or bad ignition coil among other things.
And P1133 is a common O2 sensor code associated with headers.
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10-26-2010, 05:43 PM #9
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
I think there are folks here who have had issues with the Bosch O2 sensors.
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10-27-2010, 04:59 AM #10
It is a full bolt on car with a cam and dyno tune done 3000 miles ago
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10-27-2010, 06:23 AM #11
Who did the cam work. You a shop or previous owner?
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10-27-2010, 08:28 AM #12
I believe the previous owner had Next Level Performance do the install and tune.
Last edited by Spaz; 10-27-2010 at 09:19 AM.
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10-31-2010, 12:54 PM #13
I would try the spark plugs 1st and wires. Get you a few of the cheap ones so you can change #1. Test it out and see if it stops the misfire. Check for a bad wire also. You can swap the wire with another one and see if the problem goes to that other cylinder. Same thing with a bad coil pack.
Do you live in south orlando area? I think I saw your car the other day while driving at OBT and weatherbee rd.Last edited by JayTA98; 10-31-2010 at 12:57 PM.
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10-31-2010, 01:59 PM #14
with ever thing u checked i would be checking the coils next good luck
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10-31-2010, 02:08 PM #15
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10-31-2010, 02:15 PM #16
my wife parents live like a mile of that intersection on weatherbee. If im correct you have a black stripe on the hood right? I never seen a camaro with that hood in orlando. I drive a black 98 TA with red accents. If you need a hand just PM your number. I live by sea world area.
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11-01-2010, 01:00 AM #17
The codes are telling you it's running lean, misfire on cyliner 1, insufficient switching. If I read correctly this started after you repalced the alternator.
A couple of thoughts:
Check very carefully for vacuum leaks - did some get disconnected during the alternator swap?
Check your voltage - is it running at 13.2 to 13.7 ?
Check cylinder 1 - plug, wire, coil, injector wire, etc.
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11-01-2010, 04:46 PM #18
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11-02-2010, 05:51 AM #19
ok lol. i did noticed the avatar. i didnt knew if it was updated pic. I guess my eyes failed me that day.
Spark plugs, wires and coils are not hard to do change. the vaccum leaks are not hard either. Have you check the pcv valve hose? they tend to crack. good luckLast edited by JayTA98; 11-02-2010 at 05:56 AM.
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11-02-2010, 07:20 AM #20
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NBM- 1998Z28
Some electical cleaners leave a lite oily residue which use to clean and lube the old type varible resistors used for volume controls,balance,tone ect. It keeps the contol from making that scratchy sound you got when you turned your stereo up. Go get the same brand CRC but make sure you get the can that says MAF CLEANER on it. I hope this helps out.TSP 347 SB, TSP Stage 2.5 PRC LS6, TSP MS4, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E, Yank PT4000, 4.11s, Fast 90/90, FTRA Cold air intake+all the free mods, Dynatech Supermaxx Exaust System, DMH Cutouts, Hooker Catback/FTRA Tips. Tuned by RPM/Garner NC. 11.28@119
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