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Cooling system flush question

This is a discussion on Cooling system flush question within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by pajeff02 I think that is what I ended up with -- it was marked "GM Approved" as ...

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I think that is what I ended up with -- it was marked "GM Approved" as I recall. Interestingly, our local GM dealership did not have any Dexcool in stock and would not order it unless I purchased the entire case.
    I guess thats what im using then. I was able to talk to the previous owner of the car and she said that the coolant in the radiator was drained once. She didn't had the system flushed. They added the coolant that you can mix with any kind of coolant (red or green). It looks red right now.

    I guess is a good thing that I' doing this flush. I'm getting the radiator hoses today and i will do it later or tomorrow.

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    Hoses are real easy to change -- with the exception of the heater hose assembly. That was a fight with how close the AC box is to the exhaust. I did it with the stock manifolds on the car. Not sure if it is any easier (or worse) with headers.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Hoses are real easy to change -- with the exception of the heater hose assembly. That was a fight with how close the AC box is to the exhaust. I did it with the stock manifolds on the car. Not sure if it is any easier (or worse) with headers.
    The problem is that they don't sell the hoses from the pipe to the heater itself. They only sell from the pump to the pipe. I was trying to see if I can eliminate the whole pipe assembly and just run a hose from the heater to the pump and secure it so it don't get close to the exhaust manifold. I can check what are my options to make something work from the pipe to the heater.

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    I suppose you could cut the hoses off the pipe and have the ends flared. That way, you could re-use the piping and just replace the hoses. I remember it was expensive to buy the whole assembly. If you do go with straight hoses, I would consider wrapping them in something like DEI's heat reflective tape where they pass alongside the exhaust.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I suppose you could cut the hoses off the pipe and have the ends flared. That way, you could re-use the piping and just replace the hoses. I remember it was expensive to buy the whole assembly. If you do go with straight hoses, I would consider wrapping them in something like DEI's heat reflective tape where they pass alongside the exhaust.
    That's an idea. Where can get the pipes flared? machine shop? I was looking and seems like the hoses coming out of the heater are different diameter and the ones from the pump are same diameter. If anything comes down i can get me a set of rubber plugs and keep them in the car in case the hose breaks. I will really like to change it and have all hoses brand new. Do you know the hose size of the heater?
    Last edited by JayTA98; 01-24-2011 at 09:49 AM.

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    Not a clue on what size they are, but I do recall there is a difference. From what I understand, except in an emergency, the heater hose fittings on the engine should not be capped. Better to loop them by using the smaller diameter hose and somehow shoving it onto the larger fitting. This allows coolant to continue to circulate.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    well im stuck until tomorrow I had to order the lower radiator hose. I have to pick it up tomorrow. I found out the diameters for the heater hoses. I got 6' of each one and I'm going to remove the whole assembly and see if I can use a straigh hose from heater to pump. The sizes are 3/4" and 5/8". I found some write up on google of some people doing this and they haven't had any issues.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    Okay the only stuff I find is prestone dexcool approved stuff. Will that work?
    Long as it clearly states GM Approved DexCool. I use Texeco DexCool.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Long as it clearly states GM Approved DexCool. I use Texeco DexCool.
    yup it does.

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    ok I can't see the passenger side drain plug. I can see the driver's side one but i don't have an allen socket or wrench that big. So i guess ill flush it as good as I can.

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    good luck man.. if can let me know how it goes i my self need to replace my water pump since it just started to make bearing noise...

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    ok I can't see the passenger side drain plug. I can see the driver's side one but i don't have an allen socket or wrench that big. So i guess ill flush it as good as I can.
    If you go to Autozone, you will find a set of 3 allen head sockets for something like $9.99. You want the kit that includes the 17 mm socket. The passenger side drain is hidden by the starter. Look between the starter and the engine block and you will see a smaller allen head plug there.

    There is a lot of coolant that remains in the engine if the plugs are not removed.

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    the problem is that I don't have another vehicle. I think i will have to fill it up and then reflush it again sometime this week. I did saw the other plug is kinda of tight spot to get it out. Do I need to remove the starter? I fill it the radiator with water 3 times and is still coming out with some red. Is like you said i need to drain those plugs. I have to work tomorrow so I will get all the sockets that I need. Will it be okay to run for a few days? I know there is going to be some tap water left

    I don't see how can i get the one by the starter without a long ass allen wrench unless i remove the starter. this has been more complicated than what i expected. can I just drain it by the driver's side plug?
    Last edited by JayTA98; 01-25-2011 at 12:33 PM.

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    I used a 6" extension and was able to extract the plug on the passenger side without a problem. As long as the temp stays above freezing you should be fine. You could flush it a dozen times without dropping the block drains and it'll still run red when you drain it.

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    ok wife came home early and I was able to get everything I need. I was able to remove the plugs and drain the plugs. I flushed the system until water came out clear. I used one gallon of distilled water and 1 gallon dexcool and it still not full. I removed the 5/16hose that goes to the front of the block (the one that we do the TB bypass). I filled the radiator up and it slowly drains down. How much more dexcool and distilled water I need? I'm waiting for this t storm to pass to get more but I will like to know how much more. thanks Pajeff for all the help.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 01-31-2011 at 07:54 PM.

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    Off the top of my head, I want to say that it takes 12 + quarts to fill the cooling system. You'll need another gallon of coolant and another gallon of distilled water. Don't forget to refill your overflow bottle as well.

    On initial startup, keep an eye on things as you do not want the cooling system to air lock. If the upper radiator hose stays cold after the temp gauge comes up over the usual operating temperature, shut it down.

    Glad to assist.

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    Ok going to walmart to get the other gallon of dexcool and distilled water. Those plugs beat me up. I had to pull out my 1/2" ratchet to get them out. I also got a pretty nice splash of dexcool/water on my face. It driped all over the place and got me. On top of that it was rainning.

    I'll update in a few hours after in done filling up the system.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 01-31-2011 at 07:55 PM.

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    Ok i fill it up with 50/50 mix. I started the car and let it run until it reach around 180 F. The coolant level went down a bit so I added more. I let it sit without the cap for about 30mins constantly checking the level of coolant. Initially I can see bubbles coming out at the radiator opening but after 10 mins it was a steady stream. I revup the car for a few mins but I couldn't get the temp to go over 180 F. I added the rest of the mix to reservoir to the proper level. I will drive tomorrow and keep an eye at the temp. We have a bad T storm passing by and I don't feel like driving under rain. My job is 10 mins away so if it oveheats I can make it safe. I will bring the water and dexcool with me. I haven't seen any leaks and I replaced the heater hoses with regular heater hose. I did my best to route them. They are not too close to the exhaust manifold. I will keep an eye on them to see if the heat is affecting them. If anything I will try to see if I can find the hose assembly brand new if not I can make it work better but I need some L shape brass fittings. I can always re install the old assembly.

    I hope this is it. It was kinda of hard but at the end I learned how to do myself. Thanks Pajeff02 and evryone else that guide thru the process.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 01-31-2011 at 07:55 PM.

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    Okay i had a small leak with the new heater hoses. It was the OEM clamps. I removed those and put worm clamps on them. I don't see any leaks anymore but my coolant level is dropping everytime i check the radiator. Does this mean i have air in the system? I took off the hose at the water bypass and slowly filled the radiator until coolant came out of the tube. its not everheating. i don't have any visual leaks. It has a 3 week of radiator cap so i know is good. Any ideas?

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    The level in the overflow and radiator will change with the temperature. When it is hot, it will push fluid into the overflow and then suck it back in to the radiator as it cools. Since the level was down, it may take 2-3 run cycles before it stabilizes. Just add some more at this juncture and see what happens so long as you can not find another leak.

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