Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 36 of 36

Coolant leaking from back of engine somewhere?

This is a discussion on Coolant leaking from back of engine somewhere? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by mike13 Or if someone can tell you the proper size and thread pitch Yep, but specificly the ...

  1. #21
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Indio Hills, Ca (Palm Springs)
    Posts
    22

    Black
    00 WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by mike13 View Post
    Or if someone can tell you the proper size and thread pitch
    Yep, but specificly the safe depth to drill down. It seems kindof shallow but does drop down a bit on one side into the coolant passage. I actually just noticed that the other side has the same thing but was fixed right w/ a bolt. Seems like this would be a common enough thing that there would be plenty on info on it or a kit or something.

  2. #22
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    22,520

    98 Formula
    06 duramax

    I'm not sure of the thread size and pitch on that.....it's the same as the front so maybe you can pull one of those bolts out and go match it up. That should also let you know how far you can tap down. So I take it they just put jb weld over the hole? I told you several posts ago I've seen some pretty ghetto set ups when dealing with those ports. There is a kit, it's called block off plugs. There should be a pipe running across the fronts and then there's supposed to be plugs for the back which cost all of like $10 or something rediculously cheap like that. Maybe not $10, but they're cheap.

  3. #23
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Indio Hills, Ca (Palm Springs)
    Posts
    22

    Black
    00 WS6

    Think I figured out the solution.

    http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=242&catid=5

    incase anyone else has this issue

  4. #24
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Indio Hills, Ca (Palm Springs)
    Posts
    22

    Black
    00 WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    ....it's the same as the front so maybe you can pull one of those bolts out and go match it up. That should also let you know how far you can tap down. So I take it they just put jb weld over the hole? I told you several posts ago I've seen some pretty ghetto set ups when dealing with those ports. There is a kit, it's called block off plugs. There should be a pipe running across the fronts and then there's supposed to be plugs for the back which cost all of like $10 or something rediculously cheap like that. Maybe not $10, but they're cheap.
    I'm scared to pull any other bolts out now untill I'm financially able to repalce about half the engine after seeing this micky mouse poo. Yep they just stuck jb weld down the cooling hole, let it dry, and then called it good. I can't understand why they did the other side right though. The fronts already have AN line run back to the radiator so I'm good on that.

    I'm going to call TS tomorrow and see if they wanna sell me half a kit.

    Thanks everyone for the help. I really apreaciate all the hints and help you've provided.

    One last question real quick that I don't think warrents a new thred. Should I do the ls6 pcv conversion while I have all this apart? I was alittle bumed to see how dirty the intake was w/ oil after just a few thousand miles on it since the fast intake was swapped out (assuming they cleaned the ls1 intake before they reinstalled it)

  5. #25
    COTM July '09
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    1,111

    BLK/BLK w/CGM Stripes
    2010 Camaro 2SS/M6

    Mayron, good to see that you figured out where the leak was and it was just like we said, on those ports at the back. that's crazy how someone just put JB weld in the hole to block it off. Can you give us a couple pics to verify exactly how bad it is?

    Also later, when you're ready to do it "right" I'd go for another crossover like in the front (don't use the two block-off plugs in the back like usually used on LS6 setups) and turn it backwards and use a hose to bring the coolant up front and T it into the tube from the front ports near the radiator. This will hopefully keep the back end of the engine cooler by doing this (than plugging the steam ports at the back where they have no way to escape but to come all the way forward) 'cos many engines have failed in the 7-8 cylinders due to running hot. Not everyone agrees with my theory and some will say it's a tuning/intake issue but I'd rather be safe than sorry and let the coolant circulate better than blocking it off and hoping that nothing happens.

    Hope everything goes smooth.

    If you're going for the LS6 valley cover/PCV conversion, now's the best time!
    Last edited by Mean Green Z28; 09-07-2008 at 08:21 PM.

  6. #26
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    22,520

    98 Formula
    06 duramax

    I would imagine they probably stripped those threads in that hole and that's why it got the dose of JB in it.

    I have nothing against running another cross over back there. I actually questioned those block offs when I done mine but never thought of running a second tube back there, nothings in the way back there? Might be a winter project for me.

  7. #27
    COTM July '09
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    1,111

    BLK/BLK w/CGM Stripes
    2010 Camaro 2SS/M6

    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I would imagine they probably stripped those threads in that hole and that's why it got the dose of JB in it.

    I have nothing against running another cross over back there. I actually questioned those block offs when I done mine but never thought of running a second tube back there, nothings in the way back there? Might be a winter project for me.
    Nope, plenty of space around the sensors/wiring. You "may" have to bend the crossover pipe downward a bit to accommodate the back of the intake but that's not much of an issue and installing the intake itself will clear this.

    Just glad that my experience/knowledge from working on these engines/platforms for the last 4 years helps someone.
    Last edited by Mean Green Z28; 09-07-2008 at 08:33 PM.

  8. #28
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Indio Hills, Ca (Palm Springs)
    Posts
    22

    Black
    00 WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by That Guy 2-1 View Post
    Can you give us a couple pics to verify exactly how bad it is?

    Also later, when you're ready to do it "right" I'd go for another crossover like in the front (don't use the two block-off plugs in the back like usually used on LS6 setups) .

    This will hopefully keep the back end of the engine cooler by doing this (than plugging the steam ports at the back where they have no way to escape but to come all the way forward) 'cos many engines have failed in the 7-8 cylinders due to running hot.
    I'll try to get some pic's posted tomorrow.

    It's funny you mention not pluging the rear passages. I was going to ask why gm put them there and then got rid of them on the ls6's (higher perf. motor) and if they ever came back on any of the newer better engines. How big of a problem is it for 7 & 8 running hot if the cars running at <200* anyways? I plan on doing a big inch lsx someday and swapping the engines down the road once I get the car paid off in a couple years. These engine bays are so damn tight it's hard to do much work on them short of bolt on's while the engine is still in the car. It's already got a mild cam, and ported 853 heads (don't know if they're any good) + they claimed it had a completly upgraded valve train Anyways I can't think of anymore I'd really wanna do that wouldn't just make more sence doing on a stand and swaping motors afterwards. Is the extra cooling going to make much of a difference on a weekend driver? I mean i'm not going to be easy on it or anything, that's no fun, but I've got AAA Platnium (200mi tow) and another daily driver so I won't be too pissed if it starts loosing compression a few years down the road, but I don't want it blowing up either. I know nobody can really say one way or another but unfortunatly I don't have any experience w/ the longevity of these engines.

  9. #29
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Indio Hills, Ca (Palm Springs)
    Posts
    22

    Black
    00 WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I would imagine they probably stripped those threads in that hole and that's why it got the dose of JB in it.
    Man, that's exactly what I'm afraid of now that I know the other side was done w/ the bolt. It still seems like it would have been easy enough to just tap one size bigger and then just hack down a bolt from the hardware store to the right length, but what ever. I'll figure out something once I see what should be there bolt wise or decide to go w/ the extra cooling line runs.

    Just a side thought that probably fits better w/ my last post but would it make any sence to connect the two rear ports just to each other so that it would equalize the temps/air pockets between the two heads? I swear I remember seeing them doing that on older hipo carbed engines back in the day.

  10. #30
    COTM July '09
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    1,111

    BLK/BLK w/CGM Stripes
    2010 Camaro 2SS/M6

    Quote Originally Posted by Mayron View Post
    I'll try to get some pic's posted tomorrow.

    It's funny you mention not pluging the rear passages. I was going to ask why gm put them there and then got rid of them on the ls6's (higher perf. motor) and if they ever came back on any of the newer better engines. How big of a problem is it for 7 & 8 running hot if the cars running at <200* anyways? I plan on doing a big inch lsx someday and swapping the engines down the road once I get the car paid off in a couple years. These engine bays are so damn tight it's hard to do much work on them short of bolt on's while the engine is still in the car. It's already got a mild cam, and ported 853 heads (don't know if they're any good) + they claimed it had a completly upgraded valve train Anyways I can't think of anymore I'd really wanna do that wouldn't just make more sence doing on a stand and swaping motors afterwards. Is the extra cooling going to make much of a difference on a weekend driver? I mean i'm not going to be easy on it or anything, that's no fun, but I've got AAA Platnium (200mi tow) and another daily driver so I won't be too pissed if it starts loosing compression a few years down the road, but I don't want it blowing up either. I know nobody can really say one way or another but unfortunatly I don't have any experience w/ the longevity of these engines.
    Sure on a daily driver, little mods like this aren't gonna affect longevity by much but for me it's all about using what I know from experience to be safe so I don't have any regrets in the future or am ready for upgrades and don't need to tare into the engine again 'cos I was lazy to do it the first time. I've seen many engines blow up because of high heat conditions in the last two cylinders. Some attribute it to a lean condition and tuning and some attribute it to bad flow characteristics of an intake but the main issue when it all boils down even with the most perfect intake and perfect tune/injectors/etc. is HEAT and getting it out of there as quick and efficiently as possible.

    Another example of my OCD ... lol
    While putting my engine together, I also did the hole mod in the lifter trays (1/2" holes in the lower side of the lifter trays; lets the oil drain into the engine without puddling within the tray and prevents the lifters from aerating the oil at high RPMs). That mod isn't gonna yield much for a DD ('cos they're not at high RPMs for long periods of time) but helps on high revving and road race cars.

    Whatever I think helps my engine last longer and work better, I'm gonna do!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mayron View Post
    Just a side thought that probably fits better w/ my last post but would it make any sence to connect the two rear ports just to each other so that it would equalize the temps/air pockets between the two heads? I swear I remember seeing them doing that on older hipo carbed engines back in the day.
    I guess that's a theory, but getting that steam/hot coolant out of there is proirity #1, hence the crossover tube with the outlet like the front that I recommend on every LS6/Fast intake swap.
    Last edited by Mean Green Z28; 09-07-2008 at 09:45 PM.

  11. #31
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Indio Hills, Ca (Palm Springs)
    Posts
    22

    Black
    00 WS6

    Can't really argue w/ better safe than sorry I suppose
    Sounds like when the computer gets a custom tune it'd be a good idea to ask for alittle extra fuel for those rear cylinders too.
    Thanks for the feed back, I thrive on infomation and others real experience. The funniest thing I saw in awhile was an argument over how much heat soak the aluminium intakes might have and then someone brought up the point that the fastest m6 had an aluminium one and it didn't seem to hamper his efforts

  12. #32
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Indio Hills, Ca (Palm Springs)
    Posts
    22

    Black
    00 WS6

    Just thought I'd give an update on the situation. I found the proper part # for the official GM block off plug, just for future reference it is 12602540 not 12562788 as referenced everywhere else online. It also needs a 6x1x30mm screw that doesn't come w/ it. Anyhoo got it home and was bummed to find that they had indeed enlarged the coolant hole in the head, probably trying to plug it w/ a bolt as on the other side. The plug wasn't going to seal that hole alone so I bought some aluminium epoxy puddy @ the local MX store which I worked into the hole before I screwed in the plug for positive pressure against the puddy. The extra I didn't use ended up rock or rather metal hard within 15 minutes so I'm hopeing it'll do the job after a good 24hr curing. I'll let everyone know how it goes when I crank it over tomorrow. Thanks again for everyone's help!

  13. #33
    COTM July '09
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    1,111

    BLK/BLK w/CGM Stripes
    2010 Camaro 2SS/M6

    hope everything goes well man

  14. #34
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Indio Hills, Ca (Palm Springs)
    Posts
    22

    Black
    00 WS6

    Well finally got to take her out for a decent thrashing. At first when I got to my friends house I found some more liquid dripping down on the passanger side header but after tasteing it I'm pretty sure it was just condensation from the a/c (it was humid today). Seems to be leak free now after checking the coolant level. It's at the very least using less, I think it's still working out the air cause it's been needing 2-4oz of fluid after a good heat cycle. Hopfully it's thurst will be quenched soon and I'll be sure it's patched tight.

  15. #35
    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    over here...
    Age
    39
    Posts
    25,693

    []D [] []V[] []D
    1999 trans am

    Quote Originally Posted by Mayron View Post
    Well finally got to take her out for a decent thrashing. At first when I got to my friends house I found some more liquid dripping down on the passanger side header but after tasteing it I'm pretty sure it was just condensation from the a/c (it was humid today). Seems to be leak free now after checking the coolant level. It's at the very least using less, I think it's still working out the air cause it's been needing 2-4oz of fluid after a good heat cycle. Hopfully it's thurst will be quenched soon and I'll be sure it's patched tight.
    congrats!!!

  16. #36
    COTM July '09
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    1,111

    BLK/BLK w/CGM Stripes
    2010 Camaro 2SS/M6

    glad to see you got it under control

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Leaking Coolant
    By blackcar in forum External Engine
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 02-24-2011, 02:09 PM
  2. leaking coolant
    By Spikito in forum External Engine
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 04-04-2009, 12:22 AM
  3. Coolant Leaking Somewhere
    By 317Born in forum External Engine
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 07-13-2008, 10:41 AM
  4. Question: Leaking Coolant
    By TransAmFanatic in forum General Help
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-07-2008, 09:45 PM
  5. coolant leaking
    By oh2bequick in forum General Help
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-07-2008, 08:44 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •