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Cold Start Up & Codes P0300, P1416, P1683

This is a discussion on Cold Start Up & Codes P0300, P1416, P1683 within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; My check engine light came on one night even though it was running fine, then the car was shut off ...

  1. #1
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    2002 TA WS6

    Cold Start Up & Codes P0300, P1416, P1683

    My check engine light came on one night even though it was running fine, then the car was shut off for a couple hours and when starting it back up it was hesitant to start. It would start, then die out. I took it to Auto Zone and the only code that showed was P1416. Then the care wouldn't start up when it was cold out. I told it to a mechanic who said it's probably the spark plugs and that's what they suggest to replace. I was going to take it back to have them replace them, then a friend said asked another mechanic who said that wouldn't be it since it only has 50,000 miles on it. So I took it to that mechanic who looked at it and he said 3 codes came up, P0300, P1416 & P1683. He advised me to put a can of Seafoam in the gas tank, which I did. Big mistake, I use to get 220 mpg and since using the Seafoam I only get 120 mpg. I took it back to that mechanic and said it still doesn't start up when it's cold and now the mpg went way down, which he said that's never happened to any vehicle he's used it in and asked if I was sure, as if I don't know that I'm getting almost half the miles to a tank of gas. Then he said to just get rid of the car, they're too much of a pain to work on and he doesn't even like messing with them. He even said the code P1683 has never come up on any vehicle he's worked on and he tried looking it up but couldn't find anything about that code.
    I've read about code P1416 and how that can be looked at, but if anyone has info that might help a mechanic (if I find one who might know how to work on cars since it seems impossible around here), please let me know. Should I let the one place start with replacing spark plugs and maybe the fuel filter since I've read the Seafoam could have caused a problem with the filter? Any tips would be appreciated, I'd like to get it fixed and put away for the winter, especially if it's messing anything up driving it when it is warmer out.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    The P0300 means you "may" have multiple misfires. However, since you also have the secondary air injection code (P1416), it could be something other than a misfire. Also, the P1683 indicates that the computer is confused about the throttle for some reason.

    If you're having hard starts, it may have to do with the air fuel mixture being incorrect.

    What we know is that there is too much "stuff" coming out of the combustion chamber in the exhaust. Too many hydrocarbons, basically (you're not getting complete combustion). This could be due to a weak/absent spark, but it could also be due to a malfunctioning fuel injector (or more than one).

    The secondary air system feeds oxygen into the exhaust stream to help the catalytic converters do a better job. Can't be sure if that system is the one malfunctioning, but the codes suggest that it is a possibility.

    What kind of car is this? If it's an F-body, the 50,000 miles things is irrelevant: the car (and presumably plugs, if they are original... your post makes me think they are) are way old. They should be replaced, IMO.

    And that mechanic you talked to is a waste of your time. Don't give him a dime of your money.

    Anyway, if you think you've ruined the fuel filter, change it (how old is it, anyway?) I'd also have the plugs changed: it's likely they are fouled even if they aren't otherwise malfunctioning. Since my best guess is that whatever IS wrong with your car WILL require you to change those things, just get them done and see if the problem goes away. But also, I'd recommend having your injectors tested as well.
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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Seafoam is one of those things of a last resort for me. Yeah it can "clean" a system out but all that crap goes somewhere..

    I would not have done it on new plugs and if you have bad enough trash in the system it could also kill the O2 sensors.

    The Throttle Position sensor may just need to be reset.

    Weak start up - 3 things to check, always are fuel, air, spark.

    Fuel - filter clean (how old is it?), bad fuel?, weak oe going bad fuel pump/regulator, fuel injector failure/clog? Check fuel pressure at the rail? Should be at 56psi and hold, if it starts to drop then you have a small crack in the hard plastic fuel line in the tank that the fuel flows from the pump to the fuel lines.

    Air - air filter, Throttle Body blade opening? MAF screen clean?, Idle Air sensor working and not clogged?

    Spark - wires and plugs. if you had a single code like P0304 (the last digit is the cylinder) etc I would say switch the plug with another and see if it follows, if not, then switch the wire, does it follow?, Lastly the coil. If it does follow after each change thenyou know what the issue is on that cylinder.




    Dropping half you fuel would mean could be MAF issue, flooding from a bad injector and it not burning off, bad plugs.

    Disconnect the plug wires and turn it over a few seconds like 20-30. Pull a few plugs an see how wet they are. They should be a little but if one's dripping wet you might have an injector issue.

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    Subscribed to see where this goes.

    OP - let us know what you find and if additional assistance is needed.

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    Thanks Naaman & SMWS6TA for the tips on what may be the cause of this.

    I spoke to another mechanic today that someone recommended and he is willing to take a look at it, so once the weather warms up a bit, I will be taking it there.

    Since it is an '02 WS-6 and the plugs have never been changed, I'm going to have him do replace them along with the fuel filter, even though some mechanics say the plugs don't need to be done until 100k miles, they probably need it being they're so old.

    I will update here when/if it gets fixed. Thanks again!

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    I have been fighting a P0300 for months now and I have never figured out what it is.

    I changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter and 02 sensors. I even bought one new coil to move it around and there is still a misfire. I see it when I scan it with HP Tuners. I don't drive it that much so I don't know if one of the injectors is plugged or the cam position sensor went bad.
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    Quote Originally Posted by shelly View Post
    Thanks Naaman & SMWS6TA for the tips on what may be the cause of this.

    I spoke to another mechanic today that someone recommended and he is willing to take a look at it, so once the weather warms up a bit, I will be taking it there.

    Since it is an '02 WS-6 and the plugs have never been changed, I'm going to have him do replace them along with the fuel filter, even though some mechanics say the plugs don't need to be done until 100k miles, they probably need it being they're so old.

    I will update here when/if it gets fixed. Thanks again!
    The AC Delco Iridiums are in fact "100,000 mile plugs". I changed ours at around 72,000 miles in the Trans Am and up over 90,000 miles in our Suburban and they looked great in both instances. Most people switch over to NGK TR55 plugs, but for a few more bucks you can throw Iridiums back in it. I think that the part numbers for them have changed in recent years...

  9. #9
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I remember back in the days of Sarge of the spark plug debates.

    Basically copper plugs are hotter and quicker to spark but have a short life 25k-30k miles. Less if you run Nitrous.
    Next Iridium's - are between copper and platinum. They are hotter than platinum but last much longer then platinum or cooper, truly a 100k mile plug.
    Platinum's - these came out in the late 80's-90's, they gave better life than copper but not as hot as cooper in spark. Usually last around 40-50k miles.


    Most track guys prefer the copper because the cost and hotter/quicker spark. When you literally can burn a set of plugs per run it gets expensive quick if you use the other two.


    For my daily vehicles I use the Iridium's but on my bird I use NGK TR-6's.

    For stock to mild bolt on's for LS1/2's the TR-55's are great. If you want Iridium they are TR-5's for NGK.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    I like the TR5 better than the TR55s. People don't seem to believe me, but the TR5s actually improved my fuel economy by about 30-40 miles per full tank. For comparison, the plugs they replaced were Autolites. I now have some copper TR6s in there, but I can't compare because it's a different engine than the one that had the iridium IX plugs.

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    Autolite plugs are junk.

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    I was never a fan of Champion.

    Have never had an issue with AC Delco, NGK or Bosch spark plugs, so I tend to go with these brands in our cars.

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