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cold air intake...

This is a discussion on cold air intake... within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Well I have one question answered. My other: I just purchased slp bellows + k&n filter off ebay the other ...

  1. #21
    Snake Eater
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    Well I have one question answered. My other: I just purchased slp bellows + k&n filter off ebay the other day. Should I go ahead and install both on my car or try to resell both items?

  2. #22
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Eater
    Well I have one question answered. My other: I just purchased slp bellows + k&n filter off ebay the other day. Should I go ahead and install both on my car or try to resell both items?
    See post #6.

  3. #23
    Snake Eater
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    I saw it.. but I've seen different opinions about the k&n, so i'm a bit confused..

  4. #24
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Eater
    I saw it.. but I've seen different opinions about the k&n, so i'm a bit confused..
    I understand.

    Here's the deal; K&N = cleaning & re-oiling. Frequency depends on driving conditions.
    Filter has to dry out naturally before oiling & re-installing.
    Too little oil = poor filtration, too much = fouled MAF requiring a cleaning.
    Gasket may or may not leak depending on the type lid you buy.
    My SLP lid = no leak, MIT lid I had before = leak.
    Power gains are probably too minimal to notice unless you are trying to squeeze every bit of power out of your engine.

    Quality paper filter = remove & replace.
    As long as you have a lid, the power loss is probably too minimal to notice unless you are trying to squeeze every bit of power out of your engine.
    (I can hit the same numbers within a couple hundredths of a second at the track with a paper filter)

    You will find some die hards that swear by the K&N.
    Me, the convenience outweighs the gain (if any).

    Bob

  5. #25
    BlackHawk T/A
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    But there is another factor you need to look at...filtration...not just track times...

  6. #26
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
    But there is another factor you need to look at...filtration...not just track times...
    K&N's filter better than paper?

    I thought they flowed better than paper due to the increased porosity, and used the oil as a dirt accumulator.

    I'll try to find some facts.
    Here we are, interesting read.

    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm


    Bob
    Last edited by rbob93; 10-27-2005 at 09:41 AM.

  7. #27
    2 is better than 1!!! noblesramair's Avatar
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    Just my opinoin, go with a lid and K&N filter. Use the exra money from the FIPK system to get some other performance parts. In reguards to keeping or selling the filter and smooth bellows. If you got a good price on the bellows just keep it. I bought one on ebay a while ago and i only paid like ten bucks for it! So just keep it, even if it only creates a few HP its worth it. In reguards to the K&N filter if its the flat one for the intake box then keep it, if you go with the setup i said youll need it if its a cone filter sell it. Thats just my opinoin though.

  8. #28
    BlackHawk T/A
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93
    K&N's filter better than paper?

    I thought they flowed better than paper due to the increased porosity, and used the oil as a dirt accumulator.

    I'll try to find some facts.
    Here we are, interesting read.

    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm


    Bob
    I wasn't saying either filtered better, I was only bringing up the subject since everyone seemed to be concerned with flow and power...

  9. #29
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93
    K&N's filter better than paper?

    I thought they flowed better than paper due to the increased porosity, and used the oil as a dirt accumulator.

    I'll try to find some facts.
    Here we are, interesting read.

    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm


    Bob
    Oh shit!...I thought everyone including the donkeys in Saudi knew that "study" was flawed. ( Bullshit) .I am shocked you can even link to it...."study my ass" Get a new donkey and quit believing everything on the Internet without absolute proof....From the originator of your "test"
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodger
    Guys, the truth is that I was curious to see how the maintenance test compared to ones I've had done in the past by Blackstone. And if it might be a cheap alternative. [Roll Eyes]

    Now that I've got that little public confession out of the way...the particulant count was totally unexpected. Didn't even know they did it until I saw the report. The PureOne just happened to be the filter I was using. Given all the speculation I've read on web sites about whether or not filters really performed as adverised, and how no one really knows for sure, I thought I'd share this as evidence that a way apparently does exist to measure a filter's filtering ability. It's just a shame that this sort of thing isn't more readily available for the general public. Looks like Terry might have access however.

    msparks, I'm sure the guys would run another test for me. It would be a good double check of my test results. I wouldn't want to over do it at work and wear out my welcome though, if you know what I mean. I'll email you may address.
    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Womack
    DOH!!!

    We have been debating oil filtration efficiencies on this site for a year or year and a half. And the means to determine any given filters efficiencies have alway been at hand.

    I have my tractors hydraulic oil tested annually and part of the test is a particle count. I even use the particle count to determine if the filter is doing its job. Why did I never make the connection to engine oil filtration efficiencies?


    Ok now you guys who sell by-pass systems. Lets see your results. Run an engine without by-pass to a normal change interval draw a test then by-pass the engine oil and run the particle count after a few hundred miles.
    Quote Originally Posted by RalphPWood
    Roger,
    Those are not good numbers. Most engine wear is caused by abrasives in the 5 to 10 micron range. I tested filters with lamp black with an average size of 1/20th of one micron. Submicronic particles are not abrasive until they agglomerate. Cigarette smoke is about 1/10th of one micron. The reason the numbers drop at around 15 micron is a good engine with good oil doesn't generate a lot of abrasives that large. The full flow filter is pretty much useless unless something large gets into the oil. The full flow filter does it's best work when the engine is breaking in or worn out.
    I could go on...but the "study" you put forth was flawed/bullshit and even the author admits it......
    If you want real educated degreed oil info go here.. http://forums.noria.com/groupee
    If you want internet hear say go here www.bobistheoilguy.com
    Last edited by Sarge; 10-27-2005 at 02:10 PM.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    K&N vs. paper filter. Here is ALL I need to know. K&N cost me $45 and I can clean it and reuse it forever. I run the FRA mod and my hood is sealed to the airbox and my car sees ALL weather conditions, so it gets FILTHY and I clean it 4-6 times a year. I don't even know what a paper filter costs but changing it out 4-6 times a year to accomodate my driving habits and needs will cost me alot more then running a K&N filter. Just my .02

  11. #31
    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge
    Oh shit!...I thought everyone including the donkeys in Saudi knew that "study" was flawed. ( Bullshit) .I am shocked you can even link to it...."study my ass" Get a new donkey and quit believing everything on the Internet without absolute proof....From the originator of your "test"



    I could go on...but the "study" you put forth was flawed/bullshit and even the author admits it......
    If you want real educated degreed oil info go here.. http://forums.noria.com/groupee
    If you want internet hear say go here www.bobistheoilguy.com
    I like how Sarge just cuts through the BS.

  12. #32
    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711
    K&N vs. paper filter. Here is ALL I need to know. K&N cost me $45 and I can clean it and reuse it forever. I run the FRA mod and my hood is sealed to the airbox and my car sees ALL weather conditions, so it gets FILTHY and I clean it 4-6 times a year. I don't even know what a paper filter costs but changing it out 4-6 times a year to accomodate my driving habits and needs will cost me alot more then running a K&N filter. Just my .02
    Makes good sense to me.

  13. #33
    Junior Member siggs229's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Eater
    sorry but i'm unfamiliar with the abbreviation FRA? which is..? i have the lid, but I guess i just wasted my money on slp bellows and k&n off ebay.. should i keep both items packaged and try to sell them to someone else?

    You didnt waste your money . Not the best choice either . I have the bellow , it supposedly helps airflow its smooth inside unlike the stocker which is ribbed for her pleasure As far as the K&N really no horsepower change , but you can clean it , therefore you never have to buy another airfilter again . As far as the sealing goes , I have never had a problem .

    Rob

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