Clutch Replaced-->Now Cruise Control Not Working

[120inna55]

I just got my '98 Trans Am (6-speed manual) out of the shop after having the clutch hydraulics and clutch assembly replaced. Now my cruise control doesn't work. It was working up to the moment I took it to the shop. Did they likely leave something unplugged? This is certainly something they've done, but I want to speak intelligently on the subject. I want to be prepared for the argument of, "we don't go anywhere near that, so it couldn't be what we did".

[SMWS6TA]

there is a sensor that is attached the the clutch and break pedals. You need to take the kick plate off to access them.

That will be the first place to check. It has a habit of breaking or popping off. If it is not depressed it will not let the cruise control work. It will be a white plastic sensor on the top of the pedal arm.


Now support for the argument - it breaks or pops off when they bleed the clutch by pumping the clutch pedal hard and fast. I know because it's happen both times I've bleed my clutch. It's almost become part of the process to check for when doing it.

[120inna55]

It has a habit of breaking or popping off...it breaks or pops off when they bleed the clutch by pumping the clutch pedal hard and fast. I know because it's happen both times I've bleed my clutch. It's almost become part of the process to check for when doing it.

The guy at the shop told me they don't/can't bleed it that way due to the design. The "tube" is on the opposite end. He claims, you'd never get all the air out of it by pumping it in the attached, upright position. He says they invert it and drain it manually.

there is a sensor that is attached the the clutch and break pedals. You need to take the kick plate off to access them...That will be the first place to check.

Fortunately, for me, that was the issue. He adjusted the sensor to accommodate the change in pedal height. I appreciate your help.

[SMWS6TA]

The guy at the shop told me they don't/can't bleed it that way due to the design. The "tube" is on the opposite end. He claims, you'd never get all the air out of it by pumping it in the attached, upright position. He says they invert it and drain it manually.

Fortunately, for me, that was the issue. He adjusted the sensor to accommodate the change in pedal height. I appreciate your help.

Well I'm glad I was able to help.

I've never had to adjust the pedal height after bleeding the clutch.

Base on their response I suspect that someone might have had some fun on your car by popping the clutch on a hard launch.

Maybe they really had to adjusted it.


BTW did you just replace with stock stuff or upgrade?

[120inna55]

I've never had to adjust the pedal height after bleeding the clutch.

FWIW, it was slave cylinder, master cylinder, & clutch that were replaced.

Base on their response I suspect that someone might have had some fun on your car by popping the clutch on a hard launch.

I really don't think so. I've used this shop a lot. They're the same guys that've been there for many years. I don't get the impression that's their style.

BTW did you just replace with stock stuff or upgrade?

Aftermarket. Don't know if it's upgrade or not. It certainly is performing better than it ever has since I bought it new in '98. The pedal height is lower and thus a shorter distance to press down makes shifting faster.

[chris1974]

[QUOTE=120inna55;2749754] I really don't think so. I've used this shop a lot. They're the same guys that've been there for many years. I don't get the impression that's their style. QUOTE]

My brother worked at a GM dealership for a while. The guys would always drive the hotrods hard. They said they would have to "test" their work, so they go out and do a burnout. I was picking him up from work one day cuz his ride wasn't running, and he took me the way all of the guys go when they test cars out.....burnout and donut marks EVERYWHERE!! lol My other brother worked at a tranny shop- same thing. I suppose all of them are that way to an extent.