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Clutch pedal problem

This is a discussion on Clutch pedal problem within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Have the shop check for any leaks. I am starting to think the line for the master cylinder/slave may have ...

  1. #21
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Have the shop check for any leaks. I am starting to think the line for the master cylinder/slave may have popped.

  2. #22
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Did you have any vibrations in the clutch pedal before the mishap?

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    Army of 1 wooddaniel's Avatar
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    None more than usual. It always seems to vibrate a little, has since I bought it. Now that you mention it, Im gonna go check for leaks where I can

  4. #24
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    OK.

  5. #25
    Army of 1 wooddaniel's Avatar
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    Couldnt find any leaks, but there is no fluid in the clutch resivoir. I'm betting that you are right. Hopefully Ill know more tomorrow. I wish I had my tools, I just put everything into storage.

  6. #26
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    No leaks on the firewall either?

  7. #27
    Army of 1 wooddaniel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    No leaks on the firewall either?
    I couldnt see any, Im thinking it's down under the car somewhere.

  8. #28
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Most likely. Or inside the transmission.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Most likely. Or inside the transmission.
    Again. Well, thanks for the help man, I am so tired from driving all day I would probably not have even checked for leaks had you not mentioned it. Hopefully it's just the slave again.

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    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    If it's leaking at the slave then you should see fluid coming out of the bell housing. One of the warnings that I remember seeing when setting up the Tick was if you raise the pedal too high and the clutch engages too quickly, you can create too much pressure and blow out the slave. Just a heads up.
    2000 Pontiac Firehawk #0041 of 742

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by bberretta View Post
    If it's leaking at the slave then you should see fluid coming out of the bell housing. One of the warnings that I remember seeing when setting up the Tick was if you raise the pedal too high and the clutch engages too quickly, you can create too much pressure and blow out the slave. Just a heads up.
    The folks from SPEC watch this board closely and have a real good handle on that Tick Setup. They recommended it for my SPEC III and following their guidance, especially going back and adjusting pedal throw and pressure as clutch broke in was a lifesaver.

    Try searching SPEC and Tick and see if you can come across their notes on the matter.

  12. #32
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    You could try to top off the reservoir with DOT4 brake fluid and pump the pedal a few times to see if you can make it drivable. But it sounds like the slave could be leaking. It might leak into the bellows attached to it and not make it way out right away to drip onto the ground

  13. #33
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    You could try to top off the reservoir with DOT4 brake fluid and pump the pedal a few times to see if you can make it drivable. But it sounds like the slave could be leaking. It might leak into the bellows attached to it and not make it way out right away to drip onto the ground
    That's true, plus there's not a whole lot of fluid in the master/slave and the fluid is really thin.

  14. #34
    Army of 1 wooddaniel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    You could try to top off the reservoir with DOT4 brake fluid and pump the pedal a few times to see if you can make it drivable. But it sounds like the slave could be leaking. It might leak into the bellows attached to it and not make it way out right away to drip onto the ground
    Tried it, no go. It almost immediately leaked out. Im gettin it fixed monday, my mechanic says it's the slave/throwout for sure

  15. #35
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    Keep us posted OP. Let us know what's up.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Keep us posted OP. Let us know what's up.
    Will do. Thanks for all the help guys. I dont have my tools or I would have it apart right now.

  17. #37
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    You guys are freaking me out! I'm having the same problem....just had the stage 3 rebuild by Tick Performance on my T-56. Replaced the slave cylinder and one of the bolts holding it was stripped. (My old man hooked up the hydraulic line that runs from the master to the trans.)

    My pedal fell to the floor and wouldn't come up, so I pulled it up with my hand and then it stuck in the upright position on me, and like a dumb A$$ i forced it back down with my foot (standing on it) and bent the rod on the master cylinder. Come to find out my hydraulic line came unconnected at the trans.

    I just wanted to run this by you guys to make sure I'm on the right track (it might help you guys out, too...who knows). The stripped bolts in my slave cylinder sits in the back of my mind .....I have a low mileage (20k) stage 2 Spec clutch that looked good, so i didn't replace my clutch at the time, either.

    Now I can't get the factory clip on the clutch pedal stud...the little things in life
    Last edited by Y28K28; 10-11-2010 at 06:22 PM.

  18. #38
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Sounds like you'll be needing another slave since the rod is bent. Ouch!!!

  19. #39
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    So you bent the rod going into the master? Wow, sounds like you need to replace the master and you'll be good to go. As for the stripped bolt- your best bet would be to helicoil it. You'll have to drop the trans, but for the peace of mind, it may be worth it, otherwise you run the risk of the slave cylinder moving back and forth on the input shaft. Could groove the shaft and will most likely affect the pedal pressure.

  20. #40
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    my pedal gets jammed when my rpms go over 4k i think its the master cyl.

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