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  1. #1
    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Clunking sound coming from driver's side

    Yesterday I took off my front calipers to clean them and also bled the brakes. Now when I am driving I hear this clunking soud and feel a vibration on the brake and gas pedal. Could this just be that the caliper needs to be re-adjusted? Any suggestions would be great.

  2. #2
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    Sounds like a sticking caliper pin. Need to clean and relube them.........

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    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89RS&98Z28 View Post
    Sounds like a sticking caliper pin. Need to clean and relube them.........
    What should I relube it with? Brake fluid? Sorry I just haven't ever done that before and don't want to end up using the wrong fluid and screwing something up. Also where exactly is the caliper pin?

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    What should I relube it with? Brake fluid? Sorry I just haven't ever done that before and don't want to end up using the wrong fluid and screwing something up. Also where exactly is the caliper pin?
    Use anti seize compound - you can pick it up at your local parts store. I don't have a pic right now, but the pins are located on either side of the caliper, where you remove/loosen the bolts from.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Y2KArcticSS's Avatar
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    Yes, anti-seize compound. I have been through two caliper brackets before I realized grease isn't good enough.....

    My dad has Caterpillar anti-seize compound for heavy equipment. Stuff is pretty awesome. I've checked the fronts twice to be sure, all is well.

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    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    Use anti seize compound - you can pick it up at your local parts store. I don't have a pic right now, but the pins are located on either side of the caliper, where you remove/loosen the bolts from.
    Oh ok, don't know why I didn't think of anti-seize. I have some so I'll try that.

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    There's actually a special grease for that purpose. I bought a tube at NAPA last year, I think it was like 5 bucks.

    I'm sure antisize would work too, but antisieze isn't really a grease. I can see it getting all gummed up in something that's supposed to move.

  8. #8
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    when you go to the autoparts they will have little packets of caliper brake pin grease. I will buy one packet per side. Pull the caliper out, the pins are were the rubber bushings are. grab the pin and pull it out with the rubber bushing. clean the pin out and use some brake cleaner inside the pin hole to clean all the old stuff out. use napkins or rags to clean left over grease.

    Put new grease in the hole and lube the pin. Put the pin back with it's rubber bushing and put back the caliper. The grease is cheap.

  9. #9
    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Well I lubed the pins and the vibration is still slightly there and so is the sound. Is there anything else that could cause this? Would a bubble in the brake line cause this vibration and sound?

  10. #10
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    warped rotors??

  11. #11
    Senior Member Y2KArcticSS's Avatar
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    ^^ Maybe this, our cars are notorious for it...

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    wrapped rotor or you can have a bad hub.

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    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    warped rotors??
    They don't look warped and I don't think this is the issue since it started after I messed with the brakes and by messed I just detached the caliper and bled my brake lines. I think I will end up having a shop look at it if I can't figure it out.

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    Junior Member black2kSS's Avatar
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    it sounds like the caliper bracket itself may not have been tightened enough. usually they get put back on during a brake job with an impact gun so if that was not used or decent size ratchet it could be the case. the caliper is not the part that takes the braking loads, the caliper bracket where the pads sit is. another reason for clunking on braking could be that the brake pads themselves are sitting in the bracket too loose. this is usually caused by removing any rust or corrosion from the ends of the pads to free them up. the result is play on either end of the pad and when the brakes are applied it causes the pad to slam into the bracket making the clunking noise.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    They don't look warped and I don't think this is the issue since it started after I messed with the brakes and by messed I just detached the caliper and bled my brake lines. I think I will end up having a shop look at it if I can't figure it out.
    You can't "see" warped rotors. You have to measure them. Its possible that uneven or overtightened lug nuts can warp rotors.
    IDK just a possibility...

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    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by black2kSS View Post
    it sounds like the caliper bracket itself may not have been tightened enough. usually they get put back on during a brake job with an impact gun so if that was not used or decent size ratchet it could be the case. the caliper is not the part that takes the braking loads, the caliper bracket where the pads sit is. another reason for clunking on braking could be that the brake pads themselves are sitting in the bracket too loose. this is usually caused by removing any rust or corrosion from the ends of the pads to free them up. the result is play on either end of the pad and when the brakes are applied it causes the pad to slam into the bracket making the clunking noise.
    I just used a ratchet to do it but I have a torque wrench also. Anyone know the torque specs for the bolts on the calipers? Also it actually seems to be making the sound whenever the wheel is turning after I lubed the pins up I noticed that.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 03-29-2011 at 06:47 AM.

  17. #17
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Torque specs for the brakes:
    Front caliper guide pins 23 ft/lbs


    When you jack your car up, try to push and pull on the whole wheel. By that I mean, push the top of the wheel towards the motor and simultaneously pull the bottom towards you, then reverse. See if you have any play in the wheel.

    The vibration, is it only happening when you brake? Or all the time?

  18. #18
    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Torque specs for the brakes:
    Front caliper guide pins 23 ft/lbs


    When you jack your car up, try to push and pull on the whole wheel. By that I mean, push the top of the wheel towards the motor and simultaneously pull the bottom towards you, then reverse. See if you have any play in the wheel.

    The vibration, is it only happening when you brake? Or all the time?
    It seems whenever the wheel is moving there is vibration and if I am stopped there is none. It gets really bad when I am going around 45-60 MPH. That is when the steering wheel starts to shake. I just found out the steering wheel shaking today.

  19. #19
    Junior Member black2kSS's Avatar
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    I think what KMdef9 was getting at and what is very possible is your wheel bearing/hub is worn out. when that happens the rotor leans and pushes the pads in a lil so when you hit the brakes they have to move a little bit further than normal before they begin to stop the vehicle. does the car pull at all when braking. this is also a give away of a loose bearing/hub.

  20. #20
    Senior Member 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by black2kSS View Post
    I think what KMdef9 was getting at and what is very possible is your wheel bearing/hub is worn out. when that happens the rotor leans and pushes the pads in a lil so when you hit the brakes they have to move a little bit further than normal before they begin to stop the vehicle. does the car pull at all when braking. this is also a give away of a loose bearing/hub.
    I am not totally sure if it "pulls" while braking but it definitely feels different. I'll check out the bearing/hub later.

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