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Clicking Noise from Rear End of WS6

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  1. #1
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    Clicking Noise from Rear End of WS6

    Sorry this is so long, but want to try and get all the info on here hoping it's understood what I'm talking about.

    I have a 2002 WS6 with 40,000 miles and bought it new, never had any problems until recently. It all started by having the back brakes replaced, rotors turned, after it was done I drove around the block and went back to the guy who did the brakes to tell him the whole car is shaking. He went to the back right tire, which made me wonder what made him think it was that one. Anyways, he took the brakes off, rotor and was doing something with a screwdriver, which I asked what and he said adjusting the emergency brake. I asked why, he said he had to in order to get the rotor back on which seemed odd and I wonder if he knew he did something wrong since he went right to that side.
    After doing that, he went for a ride with me, car still shaking and he said drive it to his friends place who is a mechanic. They took the tire and rotor off and he said it's the rear end is bad, I'm looking at least $1,000. I asked how, it never made any noise or anything before having the brakes replaced and he said it's common for these cars to go bad so quick. I don't ride the car hard and thought he's just trying to rip me off.
    Next I went to another guys shop, he drove it around a block and said it's the wheel bearing, and if replacing 1 to just do both. Gave me a price of $450. I asked if it could have gotten messed up when the guy doing brakes was banging on the rotor very hard with a hammer and he said yes. I called several other places getting prices and asking, which they all said he could have messed up the bearing. I was getting prices from $180 to $2,000 and wondered if places were just trying to rip me off because of being a woman. When telling the guy who did the brakes, he said no way did it get messed up from him, I asked why it didn't ever do this before and all of a sudden pulling away from his garage it does it. He then tells his friend (the mechanic with a shop) about the prices and he laughed and said it's a $25 part for the bearing and 20 minutes to change, bring it by and he'll do it. This made me laugh because early that morning he said it was going to be at least $1,000.
    Anyways, it took him 2 hours and the 1st repair wheel bearing he put on wouldn't let the axle go all the way in, was 1/8" too short. He plugged in a saw, cut the bearing in a few places and heated it to get it out. Put another bearing, which I asked why there are 2 they got from the parts store. They wouldn't answer that. He also said I need a new axle because there were minor pin dot markings where the bearing was hitting. I took a picture and showed the other mechanic who gave me a price of $450 for the bearings, he said that's normal and he can buff those marks out, it's no big deal.
    I then decided to take it to a mechanic who use to work on all our work vehicles when working in the mill. He changed the bearing, agreed the axle was bad and replaced that, and said there was a bunch of metal in the housing unit probably when the one mechanic used a saw to cut out the 1st bearing. I had bought some Royal Purple 75w90 fluid after reading a bunch of posts on here and how good it is. He said no, he use's GM and the additive which is better (he's been a mechanic for 35 years) and I believed him. After him having the car for 2 days, I went to get it and after driving a few miles it was making a clicking noise. I thought maybe a rock was in the tire but looked and there wasn't. Now I drove it last night a total of 12 miles and it keeps doing it, gets louder as driving it farther. I called and he said it could be the brakes the other guy put on since they weren't GM parts. But it didn't make that noise when the brakes were done the week before.

    Can anyone please tell me what this clicking noise can be and if now something else could have been messed up. Also, any opinions on if the wheel bearing and axle originally could have went bad from being banged on when the brakes were done since it never made noise and my car didn't ever shake at all before. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Do you hear a whining noise while driving? If so, then with your description, the rear end is bad. But from reading your post, I'm almost tempted to say the mechanic who cut off the wheel bearing might have cut a groove in the axle. Not good. Bearings will NOT last long on that axle. And I have NEVER heard of a vehicle shaking from an improperly adjusted parking brake. Also, you might need friction modifier if that fluid is synthetic. That could be the reason for the clicking.

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    The mechanic who put the correct wheel bearing on also replaced the axle to a new GM one. He thinks it's the brakes from Quality Auto, saying they're cheap. I got a message from someone saying it could be the clip on the brake got bent and making the noise it should make when the brakes are going bad. I wish it wasn't so hard to find honest mechanics around here, but I guess most are out to screw over people.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Shelly it's depressing that you have to go thru experiences like this and find a mechanic you can trust. If could be a could be a bad axle like cammedgoat mentioned. I had a bad axle bearing before and I ended up replacing the axle at the end. The repair bearing didn't last long. As for the clicking let tell you my experience. I replaced my rear end fluid as I bought my car. I then learned about this additive that needs to added. If the additive is not added the planetarium gear in the rear start to make this clicking noise when you take off. I'm hoping the mechanic added the right amount of additive. It should be a whole bottle. Now my clicking noise lasted a few days and it stopped. Now sure why it took a while but I have own the same rear end for 5 yrs and it's still up and running fine.

    I will find a picture of my bad axle so you get an idea of what to look for if it is a bad axle. A brand new axle is not cheap. I got mine used from a warehouse and it was in excellent shape. i think I paid $60 for it.

    You are right about people trying to take advantage of you because you are a woman. It had happened to my wife. The more you can learn about your car the better not meaning you can fix it (it will be great if you can do it yourself) but you can identify who is trying to rip you off.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of my bad axle:

    See the scourge area in the shinny area? The repair bearing moves the bearing contact area to an area that is not damaged. If the axle is worse a repair bearing may not work.

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    Thanks Jay for the info Jay and the picture, that is what my axle looked like but not quite as bad. I did buy a new axle from a Chevy dealership which costed $204 instead of the $299 list price. I also bought some Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W90 and the mechanic asked why I wanted that in my car. I said it was on a lot of websites about how good it is and he said "GM is the best and I've been a mechanic for 35 years". I told him go ahead as long as it's synthetic, which he said it does not need to be. I then said it's in the owner's manual and the additive has to be put in there. He disagreed and said it's the regular GM Fluid but he'll put the additive. Now I'm wondering if he didn't put the additive and that's what the clicking noise is but he said it's from the brakes being changed a few weeks ago and not being GM brake pads. But it didn't make that clicking noise before he changed the bearing and axle and it stops as I hit the brakes which makes me think it isn't the brakes if it stops as I'm using them (but I don't know and they know it so they like taking advantage of me). So now the fluid has been changed twice in the past 2 weeks because the 1st mechanic put the wrong fluid and the wrong bearing now this guy I don't think put the additive in it.
    I wish I knew more about doing this stuff myself, everytime anything is done at a shop I leave with something else wrong with both my vehicle's. I guess now I'll take it to another place to see what their opinion is and maybe find someone who is honest. It get's frustrating, I know they need to make money but I work for my money and don't have to be dishonest to make it.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shelly View Post
    Thanks Jay for the info Jay and the picture, that is what my axle looked like but not quite as bad. I did buy a new axle from a Chevy dealership which costed $204 instead of the $299 list price. I also bought some Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W90 and the mechanic asked why I wanted that in my car. I said it was on a lot of websites about how good it is and he said "GM is the best and I've been a mechanic for 35 years". I told him go ahead as long as it's synthetic, which he said it does not need to be. I then said it's in the owner's manual and the additive has to be put in there. He disagreed and said it's the regular GM Fluid but he'll put the additive. Now I'm wondering if he didn't put the additive and that's what the clicking noise is but he said it's from the brakes being changed a few weeks ago and not being GM brake pads. But it didn't make that clicking noise before he changed the bearing and axle and it stops as I hit the brakes which makes me think it isn't the brakes if it stops as I'm using them (but I don't know and they know it so they like taking advantage of me). So now the fluid has been changed twice in the past 2 weeks because the 1st mechanic put the wrong fluid and the wrong bearing now this guy I don't think put the additive in it.
    I wish I knew more about doing this stuff myself, everytime anything is done at a shop I leave with something else wrong with both my vehicle's. I guess now I'll take it to another place to see what their opinion is and maybe find someone who is honest. It get's frustrating, I know they need to make money but I work for my money and don't have to be dishonest to make it.
    adding the additive is very easy shelly if you are willing to do it. All you need is to jack the car sightly soyou get enough room to get underneath the car. Put a jack stand for safety. On the passenger side of the rear end you should see a big square looking plug. If you have a 3/8 ratchet you can slide the square end of the ratchet in this hole. Turn loose counter clockwise and it should come loose. some of the fluid may come off. the additive bottle is very small. put the nozzle off in the hole and squirt all of the fluid in there. make sure there is enough rear end fluid by making sure the fluid is all the way to that hole. put the plug back and tighten clockwise.

    If you can't i will buy the additive and bring it to a lube center and ask them to put it in there for you. You can watch them do it.

  8. #8
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Folks think cars are cars and they are all alike. Umm...NO! Our cars are very unique despite age and REQUIRE certain fluids/parts that CANNOT be skimped on.

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    you are correct sir

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    Thanks for the step-by-step instructions, Jay! I'm going tomorrow to get the additive and going to do it myself then I know it is in there instead of believing the mechanic who 1st argued with me that it doesn't need it.
    I agree, cammed goat, how people think all cars are alike but they aren't. Most of the mechanics and auto parts store guys I spoke to acted like I'm being ridiculous saying it needs sythetic and the additive.
    Thanks to both of you for you info, I really appreciate it! :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by shelly View Post
    Thanks for the step-by-step instructions, Jay! I'm going tomorrow to get the additive and going to do it myself then I know it is in there instead of believing the mechanic who 1st argued with me that it doesn't need it.
    I agree, cammed goat, how people think all cars are alike but they aren't. Most of the mechanics and auto parts store guys I spoke to acted like I'm being ridiculous saying it needs sythetic and the additive.
    Thanks to both of you for you info, I really appreciate it! :-)
    if you need some pics of the plug location let us know but is pretty easy to find.

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    I had it done today and hopefully that's all it is but I'm not having a good feeling, especially since the mechanic who changed the axle won't call me back. Yesterday when I went into the dealership to get the additive I saw a guy I knew who works in service and he asked why I was buying it. I told him the story and he said to bring it back tomorrow (which was today) and he'll get it in there for nothing. He heard the noise just pulling it from the door into the service bay. Anyways, he said the 4 oz. went in no problem because it was low and mentioned it looked like it may have a minor leak but to drive it about 15 miles to let it work it's way around and see if it goes away. If not, come talk to him because he hates when places do the stuff I've gone through. Keeping my fingers crossed nothing else went wrong when the axle/bearing was changed!

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shelly View Post
    I had it done today and hopefully that's all it is but I'm not having a good feeling, especially since the mechanic who changed the axle won't call me back. Yesterday when I went into the dealership to get the additive I saw a guy I knew who works in service and he asked why I was buying it. I told him the story and he said to bring it back tomorrow (which was today) and he'll get it in there for nothing. He heard the noise just pulling it from the door into the service bay. Anyways, he said the 4 oz. went in no problem because it was low and mentioned it looked like it may have a minor leak but to drive it about 15 miles to let it work it's way around and see if it goes away. If not, come talk to him because he hates when places do the stuff I've gone through. Keeping my fingers crossed nothing else went wrong when the axle/bearing was changed!
    Keep us updated. Mine took a few days before the noise went away, I'm sit was more than 15 miles.

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    I finally put 50 miles on my car over the weekend and it is still making the noise and driving me crazy. I thought of something today and tried it just for the heck of it (probably not too smart) but only drove it a couple of miles. I sprayed some silicone on the passenger side brake pad since that's the side it's coming from and the side the mechanic changed the bearing and axle. I was shocked, it did not make any noise for the couple miles I drove it which it usually does right away. I'm sure it isn't good that I did that but I wonder now what that means that the silicone made the noise stop.

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    well shelly if the noise stopped after you sprayed silicone on the pads then the issue is related to the pads and or rotor. now you took the initiative to start troubleshooting which great but spraying silicone on the pads is not a good idea. they could be ruined. I suspect a few things either the mechanic never changed the pads, the rotor surface is damaged which may require replacement or recut it, you have a caliper that it is partially stuck.

    one easy thing I will tell you to try as I seen this done before, open the hood and locate brake master cylinder. take the cap and put it back on. you might hear a pressure release. if the person doing the brakes doesnt remove cap when they are backing the calipers it creates back pressure and it can cause the brakes to be partially stuck. try this 1st.

    im not sure how much silicone you sprayed on the pads but I will remove them and at least clean them up with brake cleaner real good. clean the rotor as well. if you need assistance on removing the brake pads let us know. if you dont feel comfortable doing then you will a mechanic you can trust to re check your brakes.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    if you can remove the tire or if you can see the brake rotor, does the brake disc surface looks shiny and feels smooth on both sides? do you see or feel that the surfave is not smooth and it looks like something was rubbing against the metal?

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    I did clean the silicone off and it was only driven less than 2 miles. The 1st person did change the brake pads because I went with him and bought them then watched him change them. That is how I knew he was banging so hard on the rotor and wondered if that's how the bearing and axle got messed up since it was not a problem before that. It was when all the problems started after him changing the back brakes. Then his friend who is a mechanic changed the bearing but didn't put the right fluid in it, so that is why I took it to the next mechanic to get him to change the fluid, which he cleaned out the rear axle housing because there was a lot of metal from the previous mechanic putting the wrong repair bearing and having to cut it out and all the metal went in there and he left it.

    Anyways, I opened up the hood yesterday to do what you suggested about the brake master cylinder and removing the cap. I was shocked what I saw and mad at the same time. The cap was different than the original that was on there. I notice things like that and whenever washing my car, always open up the hood to dry the side of it and use a towel to wipe the motor off. It was a generic looking cap and when I went to take it off it came off like it didn't even fit for my car. So now to wonder why the mechanic who did the axle (it had to be him because no one else has ever done anything to my car without me watching) would replace this is beyond me.

    I have learned a couple of lessons: 1- not to let a friend do a simple brake job or anything on my car because they may have done 100's but still can mess it up 2- I will never let anyone do anything to my car unless I'm watching. I have never had any problems since buying this car new and it makes me sick all that has happened in the past month. I need to learn how to do this stuff myself, or with help from friends who can show me. It's sickening too that I now have 1 rim that looks like it's been beat up so bad. I take care of my car and hate having any scratches or anything wrong with it, but it's obvious mechanic's don't care about other people's vehicle.

    Couple of questions, you said "if the person doing the brakes doesnt remove cap when they are backing the calipers it creates back pressure and it can cause the brakes to be partially stuck". The guy who did my brakes didn't remove the cap, should he have done that?

    Also, he did mess with the emergency brake which is what he thought is was at 1st and now I've been told not to even use it again. I've never had a problem but afraid to because he adjusted it to get the new rotor on. Have you ever heard of that having to be adjusted to get a brand new rotor on?

    Lastly, since I did not have any noise, shaking going on before the brakes were done but did as soon as pulling out of his garage am I wrong to think he did something that caused all these problems? Even when he went for a ride around the block he was sort of freakin out and that's why he said to take it to his mechanic. That's who said it was a bad bearing and axle. A few of my friends, dealerships and mechanics I called said him banging on the rotor so hard with a hammer could definitely have caused the problems but he still denies it. It's not like I'm trying to go after him for it, but just trying to get him to know his hack jobs can cause problems and he's going to mess with the wrong person who will go after him to pay for the repairs.

    Agains, thanks for your helps.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    He might have lost your original master cylinder cap and found one laying around or ordered one from a local parts store. I have never had to hammer on a vehicle with discs on the rear. He was impatient while removing your rear rotors. I HAVE had to adjust rear parking brakes as they tend to create a groove inside the rotor and that can be a pain in the backside. Sounds to me like your friend may not be familiar with your car and got a tad bit over his head. But that's my opinion.

  19. #19
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    is hard to say what could be wrong without been there. if he adjusted the emergency brake wrong it could cause some issues. yes you might need to adjust the emergency brake when removing installing a rotor.

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    Well now that my car's been basically sitting and haven't driven it because I can't find any honest people, I decided to take it in to the dealership and they are telling me the brand new GM Axle is bent. The guy had it lifted with it running and showed me how the tire is shaking very badly. He said the axle must be defective and has to be replaced. I'm so ready to just get rid of it, a car that I loved since I bought it brand new and I can't stand even thinking about driving it. It amazes me how there are so many dishonest people and hard to trust anyone. I asked if the tire can be out of balance and he said no, I'm looking at spending $800 to have it fixed. But the GM part is covered, hopefully I can find someone honest to take it apart and make sure the axle is defective, another cost of changing the fluids again which will be 3 times in 120 miles. It's sickening how these business people here are and friends that work on cars are afraid to even mess with it because of all the screw ups made by these other mechanics (which I don't blame them).

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