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Check gauge

This is a discussion on Check gauge within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Car has been running fine. Today as I was warming up the car everything was fine too. On the way ...

  1. #1
    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    Check gauge

    Car has been running fine. Today as I was warming up the car everything was fine too. On the way to visit my mom the check gauge light came on. All I saw was the battery gauge.



    is the battery going dead? Alternator?

  2. #2
    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    As I was driving around I noticed that the needle tends to drop to the first yellow warning then back to 13. Also when I turn on the rear defrost the needle drops to where the pic above shows.

    With that happening I am ASSuming it may be the alternator. Any input is appreciated.

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    someday joejenkinsglass's Avatar
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    Probably the alt. You can have it checked at any part store free.

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    First check your battery connections, ensure they are clean and tight. Then i would check the alt..
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

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    Quote Originally Posted by sunsetorangess View Post
    First check your battery connections, ensure they are clean and tight. Then i would check the alt..
    J

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    Take it to a garage and get it properly diagnosed. Not at a parts store. Their equipment won't pick up all the problems that a professional mechanics equipment will. As a mechanic myself, I can almost guarantee that you need to replace your alternator. But you need to get a proper test to be sure, and also to make sure your battery is okay. Bad batteries and alternators commonly ruin each other. Even a good battery that very low on charge can burn out a brand new alternator. GMs also seem to be more prone to that problem. Also your service engine soon light is on. You need to get that addressed also. That means the computer has detected a problem, and you are very likely getting worse fuel mileage than you should be.

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    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    As stated above, remove and clean the connections as step one. How old is the battery? If it's 5 or more years old it's time to replace it. With all lights and accessories off does it climb back up to 13?

    And yes - get the ses light addressed - there is no good reason to be driving with a warning light on.

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    As stated above a few times, 98% chance it's your alternator. Sounds like you have at least one open diode, causing it to barely keep up with normal electrical demands, then when you add a high current draw like your rear defroster, it can't keep up. Have you confirmed it yet? It is possible you have a shorted cell in you battery, but usually that also shows up as a slow/no crank.

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    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MonteLS1 View Post
    Take it to a garage and get it properly diagnosed. Not at a parts store. Their equipment won't pick up all the problems that a professional mechanics equipment will. As a mechanic myself, I can almost guarantee that you need to replace your alternator. But you need to get a proper test to be sure, and also to make sure your battery is okay. Bad batteries and alternators commonly ruin each other. Even a good battery that very low on charge can burn out a brand new alternator. GMs also seem to be more prone to that problem. Also your service engine soon light is on. You need to get that addressed also. That means the computer has detected a problem, and you are very likely getting worse fuel mileage than you should be.
    Engine light is on because I have removed rear O2s, cats, EGR, and AIR system.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaddySS View Post
    As stated above, remove and clean the connections as step one. How old is the battery? If it's 5 or more years old it's time to replace it. With all lights and accessories off does it climb back up to 13?

    And yes - get the ses light addressed - there is no good reason to be driving with a warning light on.
    Connections on battery are clean, no mold or corrosion. Battery is about 3 1/2 years old. Cheap autozone battery.

    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    As stated above a few times, 98% chance it's your alternator. Sounds like you have at least one open diode, causing it to barely keep up with normal electrical demands, then when you add a high current draw like your rear defroster, it can't keep up. Have you confirmed it yet? It is possible you have a shorted cell in you battery, but usually that also shows up as a slow/no crank.
    Have not confirmed it yet. Will be taking care of that tomorrow. Car does not show any kind of problem starting up. Cranks on at the first turn like normal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    As stated above a few times, 98% chance it's your alternator. Sounds like you have at least one open diode, causing it to barely keep up with normal electrical demands, then when you add a high current draw like your rear defroster, it can't keep up. Have you confirmed it yet? It is possible you have a shorted cell in you battery, but usually that also shows up as a slow/no crank.
    This.....
    :\Users\Steven\Pictures\d6ftg5nh.gif


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  11. #11
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    I just put an alternator last month and that is exactly where mine read on the gage. it would just randomly go down and I would rev it up and it would start working.

    Just a tip....I took mine to a local rewinding shop and had it rebuilt for half ($75) of what AZ, AA (the chains) wanted for a reman one....

  12. #12
    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    It was the Alternator.

    Tested the battery and it was good. Tomorrow I will replace the alternator.

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