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Car won't start

This is a discussion on Car won't start within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; No Link but I do have the factory shop manuals for my car they are just in storage right now ...

  1. #41
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    No Link but I do have the factory shop manuals for my car they are just in storage right now where they will do me no good. Money is a big factor here and I can basically make the same signal from the resistors so that it thinks the right key is in the ignition or I can spend big money fixing the entire thing which I am not going to do.

    Actually when I first noticed the issues with the alarm the service writer at the local Chevy dealer told me to bring it in and diagnoses fees etc. etc. until I let him know I had no money and then he shared with my
    that he had several friends that had bypassed the VATS with the matching resistors as were in the key and had been driving them like that for years. So with the other reading I have done and input here I am hoping it will work for me too if that is the problem. I don't know how one would get down to identifying the BCM issues to re-solder the 5 joints that were posted but it is good information to know.
    Comp Cams 242R, beehive springs, LS7 lifters, LS2 lifter trays, Comp Cam steel caged trunion bearing upgrade, Moly pushrods, Ported LS6 oil pump. Dyno tune...So far.

  2. #42
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    It has an A4 and I suppose that could be an issue. I have not gone to see if the SECURITY light goes off after a period of time with the ignition on yet or not though. I will check the links out but really I need to find my factory shop manuals as this was sort of the type of thing I bought them for. I have severe chronic headaches and this issue has not been super awesome treatment for me.

  3. #43
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    1998 Camaro SS convert

    Quote Originally Posted by thomasterrible View Post
    I will check the links out but really I need to find my factory shop manuals as this was sort of the type of thing I bought them for.
    The link I posted above are pdf files from the factory manuals.

  4. #44
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    I know and appreciate it. I was just saying that my buying them does me little good if they are not where I can read them when I need to. Along with a thousand other things in a 10x20 storage unit I hope to empty as soon as possible.

  5. #45
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Well I am very happy to report that I went to the electronics parts supply store and bought some 1.870K ohm resistors and used one to install in to the bottom half of the connector from the wires that come from the ignition key lock sensor. My car fired right up. I got some shrink tubing and will do a cleaner and more permanent fix but without cutting any of the existing wiring or stock connector. But I won't be dealing with getting stranded by my alarm again.

    Thanks for the help with this bugger. Total cost of repairs was under $5

  6. #46
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Alright!!! Glad it's running again.


    I bet one of those contacts in the key cylinder broke and that's why you need to do this. It honestly isn't wore tearing into the column to find out.

  7. #47
    Member thomasterrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Alright!!! Glad it's running again.


    I bet one of those contacts in the key cylinder broke and that's why you need to do this. It honestly isn't wore tearing into the column to find out.
    Yup I think that is exactly what it was. I was quite sure when I inserted the key and tried measuring the contacts at the connector that runs from the ignition lock cylinder down and I got
    nothing for a reading. So at least one connection was broken as it was not reading the resistance on the pellet of the key.

    There are not tons of big electronics parts stores and even when Radio Shack was in business they had very little stock of anything and it was all a bunch of garbage.
    The store I went to is huge and has many drawers with hundreds of thousands of resistors and I was able to buy that exact resistor which at a radio shack you would have been lucky to find a combination to solder together resistors to make the right value.

    I am going to just leave it alone. The way I bent the leads of the resistor holds it in place pretty well but I put some electrical tape over it just to drive this morning and am going to put shrink tubing over the entire connector today before putting the panel back on. So I will have not cut any wires or damaged any connectors and it can be undone quickly and be in perfect shape if anyone should ever want to.
    But I won't be doing that.

    Going in to this I read that it was very common that the wires that attach to the lock cylinder will break. And I could not believe that a starter would go out instantly (though I am glad I now know where to get good starters for low prices). So it took many years to do but one of the wires obviously broke and things with the alarm went all weird but now are reset and acting normally. I have not tested to see if the alarm works or not but don't much care. The key fob lock and unlocks the doors and I get the beeps of the horn when it is locked etc..

    I was worried about it not being this problem as I did not have anything up to test next. However the neutral safety switch is a pretty good guess and would have been worth looking in to. I had a friend that was having issues with his truck and while I don't recall the specifics the solution was the neutral safety switch.

    It really is a very simple diagnosis and repair. One just needs to take that panel off and undo the connectors and put the key with the resistor pellet in the ignition and measure to see if they are getting a reading. If not then just put in a resistor that matches what your key measures out as and there are charts on the internet which give the values of each of the 15 possible resistor pellets so you know exactly what to buy to replace in to the lower connector. If for some reason the reading you get from the key is close but not exactly the same as that listed on the list of values you find online go with the online resistor values.
    For me getting to a decent electronics parts store was the hardest part. There is a big advantage of going to a big dedicated electronics parts store though.
    They have single resistors for sale and as in my case did have exactly the 1.870K ohm value resistor. I only needed 1 but bought 5 as they were very cheap and that meant I could destroy several and still be OK. Going back to the electronics store would have been a big deal.

    And of course I think it is pretty safe to say that this will fix the issue for the life of the car and I won't have to deal with it again.
    Last edited by thomasterrible; 03-16-2018 at 09:52 AM.

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