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Cant stop exhaust leak

This is a discussion on Cant stop exhaust leak within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I cant stop my exhaust from leaking where the headers meet the y-pipe. The clamps that came with headers sucked ...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008

    1998 Camaro SS

    Cant stop exhaust leak

    I cant stop my exhaust from leaking where the headers meet the y-pipe. The clamps that came with headers sucked so i bought the 3" band ones they sell at napa and they worked for a little while but now leak so someone told me to put aluminum foil around exhaust under the clamp. that worked for a little while too but after a few weeks it always starts leaking again and i have to put more foil on. anyone know of a better clamp or a way to stop it from always leaking? Thanks

  2. #2
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005

    98 Formula
    06 duramax

    you could weld it but that means in order to ever take it off you'll have to cut it and re-weld it. Why are they leaking so bad to begin with? What brand headers/Y? That's by far the best sealing area of my entire exhaust. How tight are you cranking those band clamps down?

  3. #3
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    East of Cleveland, Ohio

    99 WS.6 - Modified

    Do you have enough hangers/support for the pipe? Your exhaust may be flexing or vibrating, causing your problem.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008

    1998 Camaro SS

    the headers are pacesetter longtubes from texas speed and their off road ypipe. Im tightening them down as tight as I can. the shaking/vibrating could be the problem because the exhaust does shake quite a bit.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Savannah, Ga

    2001 TA WS6, 1995 BMW M3

    +1 for supporting the system. I had a similar issue of "try this or that" to fix a leak. I welded in a few more exhaust hangars and problem fixed.
    SLP Lid,Smooth bellow,S3 TB,LS6 Intake,Underdrive pulley,MS3, Patriot Dual springs,Tuning by: Carter Racing of Savannah, Ga (447rwhp/432tq),Luk Pro Gold clutch,Fidanza Aluminum flywheel,9" w/ 3.73,Pro 5.0 shifter,Pacesetter long tube, ORY, Flowmaster w/ electric cutout, Koni Struts

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Ugy Lower Corner of AL

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    What is the distance between the header collector and the ORY? I asked becasue I was in the same situation last week. My passenger side had about 2" gap. I tried everything, header tape, the aluminum foil, nothing worked. So I bite the bullet and go to my muffler shop, had them cut that section out and replaced it to where it is within an 1/8". That way it still has some flexibility and the band clamps can cover the gap no problem. I also had them weld the single pipe coming off the ORY to the muffle but had them make a cut and place an extra clap by the spot at the rear passenger area before it goes over the axle for two reasons. One to be able to take apart and two get ready for a cut out.

    The reason I had such a huge gap was because I took the ORY off 2 months ago and welded the seems up. My first time welding and I forgot to do some tac welds prior to dropping it. Yeah I know Lesson learned. I had them do it this time because I don't have the tubing or a bender.

    +1 on extra hangers I fabbed one up for the ORY at the tunnel brace mount location and I haven't had any flex or vibration or header slap since.

    One last thing now that it is all sealed up my exhaust has a whole new sound.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 04-27-2011 at 06:49 AM.

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, SLP Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  7. #7
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    North of the Motorcity

    Custom Swirly Black
    2001 WS6 M6

    Pics could help, of the whole system and the joint in question.

    The quickest way to resolve this, would be to take it to a shop as mentioned. They can either weld it or re fab it for the band clamp, but that will be more expensive than just welding it. Plus if it leaks again, take it back and they should be fixing it for free if a they're a quality shop.

    Isn't there always fitment issue with TSP y?

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