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Can you hear an engine misfire through the air filter?

This is a discussion on Can you hear an engine misfire through the air filter? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Installed the brand new motorcraft coils and motorcrafts spark plugs. I noticed an increase in power and acceleration. It doesn't ...

  1. #41
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Installed the brand new motorcraft coils and motorcrafts spark plugs. I noticed an increase in power and acceleration. It doesn't look like it is doing the hesitation as much but I can feel some while cruising. The idle is still a little shaky. Oh well I'm just going to keep driving it no point on keep putting money in it if it is not fixing it. I will get a diagnostic if it gets worse.

    On the other none I was able to find aftermarket direct fit cats from magnaflow. I can get them both for around 700 shipped. Way better than ford and I can do it myself.

  2. #42
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Well I put a brand new iac and no change. The dile is still shaky but i also noticed the truck idles with ac on in gear at 600 rpm which i have been told is too low. 700 rpm at idle with ac on no gear. I did noticed the hesitation happens when the engine is warm while slowly accelerating. I don't feel it when it is cold. I guess ford dealership is next. I don't want to get the injectors if im not sure.

  3. #43
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Can you hear an engine misfire through the air filter?

    jay check your belt tensioner. Just had this happen yesterday with my niece. We were driving along and she was telling me how her car isn't running well. At a stop it wants to stall, hesitated etc. No sooner she finished telling me all this she had cel come on and everything went to crap. We pulled over and the belt was tangled in the ps pump pulley. Her tensioner pulley was gone. We replaced bolt and all is good again.
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  4. #44
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    Is it only under load that it hesitates? Once warm, and while parked, if you slowly raise the rpm does it stumble at the same point?

  5. #45
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    I was told by a friend that maybe would be a good idea to do a compression test on the engine to make is not a compression issue since the truck has that much mileage I don't know much about it's maintenance history from the prior owners. I guess i could do it but I'm just going to keep it driving it until it gets worse. I look on how a compression test is done and it doesn't look too hard expect inserting the adapter on the last cylinder towards the rear cylinders. My boss tells me there is nothing wrong with my truck and to keep driving it until it dies lol.

    I'm returning the new IAC back since i don't see the reason to keep it and I can get my $70 back. Amazon is great place to buy parts.

    What do you guys think about doing the compression test? I'm pretty much out of ideas anymore. Like it said I can feel it doesn't drive super smooth but is an old truck so it might just be is... old. As long as it takes me to work and around the city i'm okay with it. We don't take it for long trips.

  6. #46
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Is it only under load that it hesitates? Once warm, and while parked, if you slowly raise the rpm does it stumble at the same point?
    jeff i only feel it now when i'm slowly accelerate and sometimes while coasting after i replaced the plugs and coils. I'm waiting on a camber/caster kit so I can take it to alignment since it is pulling a little to the right to rule out it might be the front end while coasting. The issue only happens under load and in gear. The idle shaking lightly happens in gear or no gear. The only other thing I can think of is a partially clogged injector but I don't know if I just want to put $130 for an injector set and then not make a difference. I think i will let look at it and see what they find before i buy any other parts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    jay check your belt tensioner. Just had this happen yesterday with my niece. We were driving along and she was telling me how her car isn't running well. At a stop it wants to stall, hesitated etc. No sooner she finished telling me all this she had cel come on and everything went to crap. We pulled over and the belt was tangled in the ps pump pulley. Her tensioner pulley was gone. We replaced bolt and all is good again.
    scott I checked the tensioner and it is good. The belt is only 3k old.
    1998 TA 130k A4, LS6 intake, TunedByFrost, Airlid, AIR and EGR delete, Borla exhaust, front Eibach lowering springs, LS6 valley cover, UMI TQ arm, UMI LCA's, UMI panhard bar, Poly engine mounts, BMR relocation brackets, Blistein HD shocks and struts, Oil catch can, Autotrix window fix.

    Now I have an 2001 F150 5.4L

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    I also disconnected the battery yesterday all night to reset the PCM. I did the relearn this morning but noticed the same issue from normal temp so it didnt made a difference.

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    I was going to suggest a compression test, but wanted to read back through the entire thread to see if you had done one yet. I know Ford had issues with their low tension ring packs in some of their older vehicles.

  9. #49
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I was going to suggest a compression test, but wanted to read back through the entire thread to see if you had done one yet. I know Ford had issues with their low tension ring packs in some of their older vehicles.
    i'm debating on doing it or not as I will have to buy the compression gauge which is around $25 and I'm not sure if it is the issue. I'm going to take it to ford for diagnostic sometime in the future and let them deal with it. Hopefully is nothing major. That will suck if it is the piston rings or valves.
    Any problems if I keep driving it like that if it is the piston rings or valves? besides the misfire feeling? I just don't know if I want to invested on an engine overhaul. Between the actual truck, the parts and repairs I have invested $8500 so far. I mean I know if I sell it and get a newer vehicle i will most likely have a truck payment vs repairing it. A decision I will have to make if the diagnostic is a bad one. I was really hoping it is the injectors clogged. I can change those myself.

    I'm trying to finish the front end so I can take it for alignment.

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    You should be able to get a compression gauge through the "loan a tool" program at the chain parts stores.

  11. #51
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    You should be able to get a compression gauge through the "loan a tool" program at the chain parts stores.
    true. I will have to pull the coils and plugs again. ugh.

  12. #52
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    you are just turn the key and try to crank the car for a few seconds so you can record the reading right? You don't even try to run the engine right?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    correct.

    I pulled all the injector connectors, then pull one plug, insert the checker, turn over and watch and then write down the highest reading. Insert plug than move to next one and repeat till all are done.


    IIRC should not have more than 10% difference between cylinders.

  14. #54
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    correct.

    I pulled all the injector connectors, then pull one plug, insert the checker, turn over and watch and then write down the highest reading. Insert plug than move to next one and repeat till all are done.


    IIRC should not have more than 10% difference between cylinders.
    ok thanks. Let me see if I get motivated to do it. I'm just driving it as it is. I'm just tired of messing with it. I just did my last 4 quarts of transmission fluid and I changed the filter too. The fluid is pretty bright red now. I eventually put 12 quarts of fresh Mercon V in it. So far it shifts good. I also did my idler arm and put camber bolts. I'm going for an alignment this morning. I'm hoping I can get a few years out of this truck without major repairs. I just never had luck selling it without getting a big hit on what I spent. I definitely need a truck because of our home. I can't tell you how much we have used it. I do miss that I knew pretty much everything going on with my car.

    I have been buying all my parts from amazon. I can't believe how cheaper it is for the most part. I have prime so I get everything in two days.

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    Scott's advice to disable the injectors is spot on. Otherwise, as you crank the engine and test each cylinder you would be washing down the cylinder walls with raw gasoline. Never a great idea, plus all that raw gas ends up in the oil pan eventually.

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    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    Besides disabling the injectors, I always thought you were suppose to pull all the spark plugs out to perform a compression check? That's how i've always done it anyhow. Its a little less strain on the starter cause your not making any compression in the other cylinders while testing the 1 cylinder.

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    ^^ Agree. You are only cranking a couple of revolutions each time so either way works.

  18. #58
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    I was doing some reading about the EGR and the DPFE sensor. From what I read a faulty DPFE sensor or egr valve can cause these symptoms too. I already disconnected and capped the vacuum line from the EGR and will test drive tomorrow to check. If I have a leaky EGR then maybe I will make a block plate to fit between the egr and the intake port were it connects. That way if it is leaking while the EGR is close it won't make it in the intake.

    If this fails then I will be performing the compression test or taking it to ford. I can't afford to do the tranny when its time come but I can't do the engine too. I will have the get rid of this truck if it fails the compression test.

  19. #59
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    Yes, a leaky EGR can cause a stumble if it is dumping exhaust into the engine at light cruise, low rpm, conditions.

  20. #60
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    I think you can find the egr block off plates almost anywhere. Most people use them with aftermarket headers after they get the computer reprogrammed to delete the egr system. I have them on my car.

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