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cam details for installing

This is a discussion on cam details for installing within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; A cam and LTs is going to be loud reguardless of what you put after it but yes cats will ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Sunset Orange Metalic
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    A cam and LTs is going to be loud reguardless of what you put after it but yes cats will quiet it down but not by much. Swap the flowmaster for a magnaflow, it's relatively cheap, will tame it down a little and will sound great.

  2. #22
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    ^^ This. Swap the muffler to something like a Magnaflow.

  3. #23
    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    Yep I vote for Magnaflow also.

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    First Start Up. i drove around it fell great, there was no Problem with the stock stall, it fell that same way before i cam it.

  5. #25
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    i like the sound. but when you have 1 person in ur area that's complains about it. its stupied.

  6. #26
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    Sounds mean. The cam has totally changed your engine's power curve and moved both the horsepower and torque peaks up in the rev range. You'll actually be leaving performance on the table with the stock stall and down low is where it will suffer most. Go run it at the track with the stock stall... then swap out your converter to something in the 3,600-3,800 range and you'll see your times drop by damn near a half second.

  7. #27
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    i going to find out everything this week, im getting it dnyo tune and see where's the peak power, between when i dnyo stock with intake and borla carbacks " it dnyo 326rwhp & 344rwtq at hp peak at 5200rpm and tq peak at 3900. and best ran was 8.51 @ 86mph with a 2.1 60ft let see what happens. and i got the 228R cam cause its DD cam and power range from 1600 - 6200rpm

  8. #28
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMR_TransAm View Post
    i going to find out everything this week, im getting it dnyo tune and see where's the peak power, between when i dnyo stock with intake and borla carbacks " it dnyo 326rwhp & 344rwtq at hp peak at 5200rpm and tq peak at 3900. and best ran was 8.51 @ 86mph with a 2.1 60ft let see what happens. and i got the 228R cam cause its DD cam and power range from 1600 - 6200rpm
    Well,,,,with a stock stall and that cam, your 60 foot will be worse, along with your ET, but about the 330 foot mark it might start picking up steam and run a better MPH. Might increase the mph enough to see a slight ET gain, but like Jeff said, you are killing the performance running a cam like that with a stock "tight" converter. It'll drive like poo around town. That's way too choppy with a stock stall for the engine to hold any decent amount of vacuum at idle, since it's going to be struggling with itself.... Be prepared for a hard brake pedal while you are loping around a parking lot.

  9. #29
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    You guys are confusing me...a stock stall? You mean the torque convertor?

  10. #30
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Yes Jodi.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMR_TransAm View Post
    my A/F is currenlty reading 17.5 on idle without the cam. i think a dnyo tune is best
    You are running extreemly lean sir.

    SteveC
    ne0fiend likes this.

  12. #32
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS:2748757
    Yes Jodi.
    Ok. Always thought the term for a "stall" was an aftermarket thing.

  13. #33
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    i got my car tune and everything. after the tune my car is still stalling everything when i start it, shift into different gears and etc im getting bad gas, waste 1/2 tank for 70 miles, the tuner said my TPS Sensor, o2 Sensor, and i had a gasket leak. i fix the leak, TPS, and new o2 sensor's. and still stalling and etc. im getting it re tune monday. what else can be the problem to making it stall like this?

  14. #34
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    the tuner said: The startup has nothing to do with the stall converter. But the exhaust leak, o2's, and tps sensors do. Your car was not mechanically correct, so I could not perform the entire tuning process. Get it mechanically sound with no service engine soon lights and I will finish the tune at no additional charge.

    Dyno: 373rwhp & 383rwtq "Cutout Closed"

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMR_TransAm View Post
    the tuner said: The startup has nothing to do with the stall converter. But the exhaust leak, o2's, and tps sensors do. Your car was not mechanically correct, so I could not perform the entire tuning process. Get it mechanically sound with no service engine soon lights and I will finish the tune at no additional charge.

    Dyno: 373rwhp & 383rwtq "Cutout Closed"
    take your car to a real tuner then...

  16. #36
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMR_TransAm:2749015
    the tuner said: The startup has nothing to do with the stall converter. But the exhaust leak, o2's, and tps sensors do. Your car was not mechanically correct, so I could not perform the entire tuning process. Get it mechanically sound with no service engine soon lights and I will finish the tune at no additional charge.

    Dyno: 373rwhp & 383rwtq "Cutout Closed"
    And its NOT a stall convertor. Its a torque convertor. And yes you need a real tune.

  17. #37
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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  18. #38
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    real tune has nothing to do with it.....if the car isn't mechanically right you can't tune it. People point the finger at the tuner way to early and often. Most tuners won't tune a car until it's mechanically sound. I'm actually surprised the tuner offered to retune for free......this car is gonna be a bitch to tune really compared to what it should be.

  19. #39
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    this car is gonna be a bitch to tune really compared to what it should be.
    That's why I mentioned some tuners probably wouldn't mess with it. I've had to tune classic cars with carbs for people that installed big camshafts but didn't want a loose converter. Trying to get a carburator to work like that is even harder. Basically needed a very fat idle circuit (not ideal) by drilling idle feed restrictors, and tons of initial advance while limiting the centrifical at the same time to make it idle around, but would still push through the brakes. Just a crappy setup all around.

  20. #40
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    That's why I mentioned some tuners probably wouldn't mess with it. I've had to tune classic cars with carbs for people that installed big camshafts but didn't want a loose converter. Trying to get a carburator to work like that is even harder. Basically needed a very fat idle circuit (not ideal) by drilling idle feed restrictors, and tons of initial advance while limiting the centrifical at the same time to make it idle around, but would still push through the brakes. Just a crappy setup all around.
    dad had a saying for cars done like this......half ass

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