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Busted Header Bolt Removal

This is a discussion on Busted Header Bolt Removal within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hi all, anyone have a good way for getting busted header bolts out with out pulling the heads? I got ...

  1. #1
    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    Busted Header Bolt Removal

    Hi all,
    anyone have a good way for getting busted header bolts out with out pulling the heads? I got the unlucky surprise of finding both back bolts on each side busted off and a little rusty so they have been like that since i bought it prob.
    Or can I get away with them not leaking if i dont put them in?
    thanks
    2000 Z28 M6 125,XXX: SLP lid, K&N, 10.4mm Taylor plug wires, Frost Tune, P&P TB, NGK Iridium plugs, Magnaflow Cat back, BMR SFC's and tower brace, TSP LT's and ORY, LS6 intake, MAC Girdle, UMI LCA's and Panhard, LS7 Clutch Kit, so far..

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Well you will have to remove the header or manifold, once removed see if you can get some Visegrips on the bolts to spin them out. If not than you will have to drill them out.
    Its your call on leaving them in but i would be willing to bet it will leak...
    Goodluck either way
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

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    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    unfortunately it sounds like someone cross threaded and broke them. If you have access to a torch head them up cherry red, then let them cool and try vise grips as stated above. If not, the heads have to come off - you are not likely to get away with them not leaking.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    That, or lack of anti-sieze. Aluminum and steel don't mix well together and corrode after time.

    Wish you luck in getting them out. It will have to be fixed no doubt. Whether you can do it in the car or not will be the question.

    Figures it's the back two bolts, the hardest to get to let alone see what you are doing. I'd probably start mentally preparing myself to drop the cradle

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    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    I have been soaking them with pb, i managed to drill into both with an air powered right angle drill. I got one out with an extractor, the other broke my extractor so im gonna make a pinch and use the hole thats back an inch or so. Cant get my driver side LT in now though, any tips?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    Cant get my driver side LT in now though, any tips?
    I had to unbolt alternator, then my motor mount and then remove the motor mount stand from the K-member. Slipped the header up there and held it there loosely with one bolt (you could also bungee strap it up there.) Then you have to work around the header to reinstall the mount stand and mount.

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    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I had to unbolt alternator, then my motor mount and then remove the motor mount stand from the K-member. Slipped the header up there and held it there loosely with one bolt (you could also bungee strap it up there.) Then you have to work around the header to reinstall the mount stand and mount.
    did you unhook your fuel lines? did you take it in thru the top or bottom?

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    try unbolting the tranny mount and jack the tranny up a little to create more clearance.

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    Did you remove your oil filter?

    On ours, I had to clearance the lip on the K-member just a bit with a grinder and then it went right in. Sorry to hear about the bolts. You may have better access from beneath the car to work on the remaining one.

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    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    no, that was the last thing i tried before quitting since it only has 30 miles since a change, i must of had strong hands that day b/c when i try to take it off with a wrench it crushed like a soda can. Damn FRAM :-( I'll get it off tom.

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    Had about the same number of miles on our oil change when I had to pull the filter to install the headers. You should ditch the Fram anyway -- at least run a Wix or Napa Gold (exact same filter). I ran Fram on our DD's for years until reading up on oil filters in a few threads on here.

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    Junior Member blworden's Avatar
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    I just pulled my engine after finding that I too had two busted exhaust manifold head bolts. I was in the process of installing long tube headers when I found the broken bolts. The one on the drivers side back was impossible for me to to get to with any kind of precision. After I had the engine out I broke several extractors trying to get the bolts out after drilling them. I could not get any pliers on them because they were broke flush so In my case it looks like the factory manifold had sheered the bolts off. After trying everything I could I ended up using a oversized drill bit and Heli-Coil them. Of course since I had the engine and trans out and it was winter I bought new heads and so forth. Good luck with yours---- Oh yeah just wanted to add one more thing and that is make sure to use grade 6 bolts when you buy new ones--your local performance shop should carry some, and be sure to replace all of your bolts on each side because it is a cheap good feeling purchase.

  13. #13
    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    should i reuse the ac delco iridium plugs with less than 2000miles on them or buy new ones?

  14. #14
    Junior Member blworden's Avatar
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    Those plugs have a long life still, now if you had a 100k on them I would say its time for a change maybee. The iridium plugs have a minimum service life of 100000

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    should i reuse the ac delco iridium plugs with less than 2000miles on them or buy new ones?
    Re-use them as long as you havent cracked any of them...
    J

  16. #16
    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    anybody have any tips for the passenger side motor mount? I cant seem to get it in with the header in.. should i have put it in b4 the header?

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    put pass MM in before header

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