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Break Problems Please help

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  1. #1
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    Blacki
    2002 WS6 Trans Am

    Break Problems Please help

    I have a 02 Trans Am WS6 and today I was changing my break and rotors and everything was going good until I got to the front driver side, first on the rotor bracket the two things that you can pull out and put grease on won’t come out they are rusted in there pretty damn good, well I took the old rotor off and put the new one alone with the rotor bracket and when I was trying to put the caliper on the rotor it was really hard, and yes I compress the pistons and they all the way back. Finally I got the caliper to go on and screwed it down, well I was going to put the tire on and notices that it won’t spin freely or at all, even after I put the wheel on and put it in gear it makes a noise like the pads or rubbing, all the rest went on easy and no problems. Any idea on if I did something wrong or anything would help. The rotors and pads are drilled and slotted from ebay.

  2. #2
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Pads might not be in correctly. However, since you mentioned the issue with the removal of said caliper, I would assume the caliper could most likely be seized.


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    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    You started off talking about the caliper pins, and how they wouldn't come off, and I am guessing that is why you the caliper wouldn't go back on. Are you saying the old pads are still in there?

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    Member RARON455's Avatar
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    The pins will prevent you from putting the caliper back on, due to the fact that when you removed them they were in a position that was correct for the brake pads that were worn,, however now that you have new pads, the caliper assembly is thicker, and you need to move the sliders in to position the caliper assembly. It sounds like what you did was force the caliper assembly on, putting everything in a bind.. Pull it back off and start on step one>>>get those sliders out and cleaned up, and greased. then re-assemble the setup.

  5. #5
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    I wouldn't put it past the product is garbage. It's more than possible the diameter of rotor is slightly thicker, plus the pads are brand new, could be rough for the first 50 miles or so. If any longer than that I would assume something went wrong with the install.

    Did you brake clean everything?

  6. #6
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    like others mentioned those caliper pins have to move freely. Soak them with some good penetrating lubricant and let them sit for a while. You might have to use a vise grip to work them out. If you cant get them out, remove the rubber boots and apply heat with a torch and work the pins out. Once you get them out clean the hole in the caliper bracket real good, lube the pins and see if they move freely. If the pins are way too rusted you might need to replace them. Take out the caliper, compress it all the way back and keep it off the rotor. Have someone hit the brake pedal and see if the caliper pistol comes out(MAKE SURE THE MASTER CYLINDER CAP IS ON BEFORE YOU PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL). If you see the piston moving easily then it's good. If it is stuck or barely moves then it's seized and needs replacement.

    One more thing, did you took off the master cylinder cap off before you compressed the calipers? You should remove the cap everytime you are going to compress them back. Then re install the cap before the brake pedal is touched.

  7. #7
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    like others mentioned those caliper pins have to move freely. Soak them with some good penetrating lubricant and let them sit for a while. You might have to use a vise grip to work them out. If you cant get them out, remove the rubber boots and apply heat with a torch and work the pins out. Once you get them out clean the hole in the caliper bracket real good, lube the pins and see if they move freely. If the pins are way too rusted you might need to replace them. Take out the caliper, compress it all the way back and keep it off the rotor. Have someone hit the brake pedal and see if the caliper pistol comes out(MAKE SURE THE MASTER CYLINDER CAP IS ON BEFORE YOU PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL). If you see the piston moving easily then it's good. If it is stuck or barely moves then it's seized and needs replacement.

    One more thing, did you took off the master cylinder cap off before you compressed the calipers? You should remove the cap everytime you are going to compress them back. Then re install the cap before the brake pedal is touched.
    I agree with Jay, if the pins look remotely misshapen or rusted, replace them. They're cheap.

    Also, use caliper pin grease to lube them, and nothing else.

  8. #8
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    Blacki
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    Thank all of you for the information but I think I will just change the whole bracket that the rotor sites in alone with the pins. I was also thinking about changing the caliper, where should I go to get one, I was looking at O’Reilly’s and they not expensive are they good or should I go somewhere else and get a new caliper? Was thinking of getting the rotor bracket also from them? Any thoughts would help, not going back home till next Thursday any way so doesn’t matter if I have to wait and order it.

  9. #9
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Time for the Corvette upgrade!

    Check the site sponsors.

  10. #10
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superhuman85 View Post
    Thank all of you for the information but I think I will just change the whole bracket that the rotor sites in alone with the pins. I was also thinking about changing the caliper, where should I go to get one, I was looking at O’Reilly’s and they not expensive are they good or should I go somewhere else and get a new caliper? Was thinking of getting the rotor bracket also from them? Any thoughts would help, not going back home till next Thursday any way so doesn’t matter if I have to wait and order it.
    you could upgrade like KMdef9 suggested. If you want to stay stock I will say the calipers you can get from either GM or any auto parts. As far as the whole bracket it will be either a dealer item(if you can find it), ebay or junkyard. You just need the bracket if your current one is in really bad shape. If you removed the pins and rubber boots get a small wire brush (gun barrel wire brush works good if it is the correct size) and scrub as much of the oxidation off. Get new pins and boots(if the old ones are broke). Grease the holes and pins good and you are good to go.

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