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Brakes slow to react

This is a discussion on Brakes slow to react within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; my rotors are pretty good right now, i was thinking about getting some new pads or possibly new calipers. Reason ...

  1. #1
    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Brakes slow to react

    my rotors are pretty good right now, i was thinking about getting some new pads or possibly new calipers. Reason being things feel just a bit loose when i hit the breaks at any speeds; by loose i mean slow to react. normally they grab at the top of the pedal, now i have to travel mid way before i feel them catch and about 3/4 for complete grab.

    do i even need new breaks or do they just need bled. thanks!

    oh yeah, 2000 ws6 with almost 100k on it. I bought it about 1.5 years at 68k miles and they had resurfaced the break rotors. They still shine today.

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    I Fixed Da Rear jimbo98z's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
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    Is the pedal firm? Or soft? If it's soft, then you need to bleed. Also, look at the fluid level in your reservoir. If the fluid is low, combined with what you're describing it sounds like the pads are running down.

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    bring her over when she gets home ill look at it

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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zboner
    bring her over when she gets home ill look at it
    yeah, that's comforting...


    thanks jimbo, i'll have to look at that when it's back in my hometown. i think they feel kinda soft.

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    I Fixed Da Rear jimbo98z's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
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    If the pedal is squishy, it sounds like you just have air in the lines that needs to be bled out. That being said, I would trace all the lines and check for leaks, as well as around the fluid reservoir. Also, I would go ahead and pull the tires off and look at the pads, too, since it can't hurt to take a look.

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    Member Fastcar's Avatar
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    Replace the hoses too while you're at it with stainless steel braided brake lines. They'll improve the brake feel and give you better modulation (brake control). The pedal will be firmer too.

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastcar
    Replace the hoses too while you're at it with stainless steel braided brake lines. They'll improve the brake feel and give you better modulation (brake control). The pedal will be firmer too.

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    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    The level of the fluid in the reservoir or the thickness of the pads will not affect the height of the brake pedal on an all disc brake system.With drum brakes in the back the adjustment of those will affect pedal height.I agree that bleeding the brakes for air or fluid contamination (a fluid flush can help a mushy pedal in my experience).Another possibility is that the mastercylinder is wearing out. A brake system in good repair should not lose pedal height-agreed that a leak should be looked for.After all else is working properly then modifying the system with braided steel brake hoses can be done to stiffen pedal response (not cure low pedal height).

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    The f-bods have drum brakes in the back?

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    99PontTA
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    two basic rules with any brake system...pedal travel=mechanical problem....soft or mushy pedal=air in the system.A good place to start looking on these newer fbodies is the caliper pins.....on mine the pedal started feeling funny and lower...sure enough both sides in the frt the top caliper pin was froxen....took a torch and some PB blaster to get um loose.....but now the pedal is like new again.Also another thing to look for when the pedal starts getting lower is the frt wheel beraings.If the hub is starting to get play in it this will cause a low pedal also.SO remember low pedal=mechanical problem...something loose or worn moving too far before it exerts pressure on the rotors.Soft or spongy pedal=air in the system or possibly a hose problem on a car with high mileage.

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    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadegray
    The f-bods have drum brakes in the back?
    Prior to 98 model year -yes-it was possible to have an F-body w/drum rear brakes.With the 98 model year alot of options became standard equipment and the options list became shorter.One of those changes was every F-body came standard with 4 wheel disc brakes.To repeat what someone else was saying-fix all mechanical problems with the brakes.But it's come to my attention from years of dealing with customers that people will say that their brake pedal is "on the floor" for alot of different reasons-most of which have NOTHING to do with the actual height of the pedal or how well their brakes are functioning.Some of those reasons can be fixed relatively easily with something that should be normal maintenance, but is sometimes never done, and that is a brake fluid flush to cure a brake fade that occurs with stop and go driving.A professional mechanic takes for granted that you are keeping your caliper slides freed up-and we have an bi-annual safety inspection as part of the licensing procedure that catches alot of the obvious malfunctions-so it's different for me than some people.

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    wow! this thread really lit up. from what i gather, i think i just need to flush the lines and get some new dot3 in there. Thanks for all your help!

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    dude, i have done everything to my breaks, bring it over we can flush it, bleed it, replace what we need and if the calipers look bad we can replace them also. or maybe its just the pads or somethin

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    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    taking a break is simple-I do that all the time! Working on BRAKES though can be a little trickier.Just wanted to point out that the guys at the dealership arent as good at brakes and alignment as the guys at the independent garages are-they both have their strong areas and weak areas-use them accordingly.If your calipers were frozen pins at both front that is unusual-and the guys at the shops don't have time to disassemble the brakes to tell you what is wrong so you can go home and fix it yourself.My guess would be they pegged you as a time waster and didn't spend a lot of time trying to diagnose your problem that you were going to fix yourself anyway-I do that all the time myself if I can spot the guy. Eventually you would have uneven wear on the pads and that would be easy to spot. If you can do the work yourself why take it to a garage in the first place? Everybody assumes they can fix "breaks" but most times a professional can do it better. When you put the pins back in did you replace all rubber parts on the slides and lubricate with Silglide?After heating them up to remove them,they would have been damaged and need to be replaced. Replacing everything in the brake system is a nuke it approach which should be successful but expensive-it's hard to justify that to the average customer and usually not something the average customer will buy. Working in a shop is alot different from goofing around at home as a hobby, selling the service and productivity are essential to staying in business

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    I Fixed Da Rear jimbo98z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99PontTA
    ...Trusting your car to a "professional mechanic" is like trusting your daugthers virginity to a college fraternity.DON"T DO IT!
    Hey, I'm in a fraternity and i take personal offense to that

    02z28ls1: I'm not talking about pedal height here, just feel. Pedal height issues with disc brakes are a hole 'nother deal

    Also, 99PontTA: I know exactly what you are talking about. Having worked at a shop myself, I can tell you that a lot of BS'ing goes on in the shop, but thankfully the shop manager didn't tolerate it. We had a guy who would tell people the vitamins and minerals in their coolant was deteriorated and needed to be replaced. This kid could sell anybody anything, especially stuff they didn't need. Now, whenever I need service I can't do myself, I take it to the shop I worked at before I left for college. Long story short: mechanics have a bad name in general, but some places still give good service and don't rip you off. I can't tell you how many people would come in from other places, and say they were never going back to the other place.
    Last edited by jimbo98z; 01-18-2006 at 01:35 PM.

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    Member keliente's Avatar
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    99PontTA has been warned once again, resulting in a temporary ban.

    If you are reading this, 99PontTA, you need to start conducting yourself in a more pleasant manner. Yes, we all know that dealerships are evil and they have screwed you over 13492379487 times, but seriously, LET IT GO. For someone who is right all the time and knows everything - why do you even have to take your car anywhere in the first place?

    As for the rest of the people - if you do not have a reply that pertains to the original question, or subject matter related to the question - keep it to yourself. I moderate on a bunch of forums and for some reason - this one requires a lot of effort and constant babysitting. Can't we all just get along?

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    Quote Originally Posted by keliente
    99PontTA has been warned once again, resulting in a temporary ban.

    If you are reading this, 99PontTA, you need to start conducting yourself in a more pleasant manner. Yes, we all know that dealerships are evil and they have screwed you over 13492379487 times, but seriously, LET IT GO. For someone who is right all the time and knows everything - why do you even have to take your car anywhere in the first place?

    As for the rest of the people - if you do not have a reply that pertains to the original question, or subject matter related to the question - keep it to yourself. I moderate on a bunch of forums and for some reason - this one requires a lot of effort and constant babysitting. Can't we all just get along?
    lol...

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    Member keliente's Avatar
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    You can thank 99pontTA and his troll accounts for the closing of this thread.

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