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brakes?

This is a discussion on brakes? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Spaz if i'm not mistaken you'll need 17" or larger rims for that... if not i'm going ...

  1. #21
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaz View Post
    if i'm not mistaken you'll need 17" or larger rims for that... if not i'm going to go for it!!!
    what are you going to do about the rears.....also yes i believe 17" or larger are needed..at least for the kits that give you the calipers also

  2. #22
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaz View Post
    if i'm not mistaken you'll need 17" or larger rims for that... if not i'm going to go for it!!!
    never mind, didn't know you were on 16s

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    With the money you save on our stuff you can get bigger rims

    Seriously though, the drilled and slotted debate has somehow gotten carried over from old timer's days. There is a reason HIGH DOLLAR SPORTS CARS COME with drilled and slotted rotors.

    I HIGHLY recommend our front conversion kit (our cars are like 80/20, going bigger in the back won't do much) but at the very least I could get you drilled and slotted all around, good pads AND stainless steel lines (which from my experience make the car feel WAYYYYY better and gets rid of fade) for cheaper than what you've been quoted and your car will brake great and look great.

    Anyone interested just e-mail me and I'll put together a package deal for whatever you specifically want. I'll also match or beat any price out there if I can, madelisle@yahoo.com

  4. #24
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6LITEREATER View Post
    With the money you save on our stuff you can get bigger rims

    Seriously though, the drilled and slotted debate has somehow gotten carried over from old timer's days. There is a reason HIGH DOLLAR SPORTS CARS COME with drilled and slotted rotors.

    I HIGHLY recommend our front conversion kit (our cars are like 80/20, going bigger in the back won't do much) but at the very least I could get you drilled and slotted all around, good pads AND stainless steel lines (which from my experience make the car feel WAYYYYY better and gets rid of fade) for cheaper than what you've been quoted and your car will brake great and look great.

    Anyone interested just e-mail me and I'll put together a package deal for whatever you specifically want. I'll also match or beat any price out there if I can, madelisle@yahoo.com
    i have a slight problem with this statement.
    our cars are 55/45
    also many car makers have been stating that the drilled rotors are for appearance only. due to the fact that 1. they look cooler, and people still associate drilled with high performance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    i have a slight problem with this statement.
    our cars are 55/45
    also many car makers have been stating that the drilled rotors are for appearance only. due to the fact that 1. they look cooler, and people still associate drilled with high performance.
    I retract the 80/20 statement... I had a brain fart. Gilbert and I were doing a t-top conversion on a guy's LT1 this weekend. We were talking about putting LS1 brakes on the front WITH the C5 kit and leaving the rears stock LT1, jokingly said it would be like 80/20 and it stuck in my head.

    Definitely not 55/45 though, I'll get the real numbers and get back to you guys...

    People put "appearance only" all the time to get out of liability....

  6. #26
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6LITEREATER View Post
    I retract the 80/20 statement... I had a brain fart. Gilbert and I were doing a t-top conversion on a guy's LT1 this weekend. We were talking about putting LS1 brakes on the front WITH the C5 kit and leaving the rears stock LT1, jokingly said it would be like 80/20 and it stuck in my head.

    Definitely not 55/45 though, I'll get the real numbers and get back to you guys...

    People put "appearance only" all the time to get out of liability....
    here

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    I concur on the 55/45 also. Jeff on here weighed his car on all four wheels individually and found this to be true.

    He has a thread write-up on here about it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I concur on the 55/45 also. Jeff on here weighed his car on all four wheels individually and found this to be true.

    He has a thread write-up on here about it.
    Ok, now I see the confusion... I wasn't referring to weight distribution...

    We're talking about using different size brakes remember (it was mentioned if you upgrade the fronts to larger you need to upgrade the backs to larger)? I'm talking about percentage of stopping power...

    In other words, 80% of stopping power comes from the front and 20% from the rear...

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    Quote Originally Posted by 6LITEREATER View Post
    Ok, now I see the confusion... I wasn't referring to weight distribution...

    We're talking about using different size brakes remember (it was mentioned if you upgrade the fronts to larger you need to upgrade the backs to larger)? I'm talking about percentage of stopping power...

    In other words, 80% of stopping power comes from the front and 20% from the rear...
    I knew what you were talking about

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    I knew what you were talking about
    Thanks I read back over it and I'm like "How the hell did we get into weight distribution?!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    You can't beat that deal. Why buy stock parts when you can get a full upgrade for less??

    I only spend about $600 on my entire CTS-V upgrade, and its no comparison to stock performance.

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    I was just reading Shady's reply

    I agree with there being much more stopping power required by the front brakes.

    Makes total sense as the weight would be transferred to the front during a stop, hence why the car nose-dives during braking.

  14. #34
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    Anyone have any suggestions how to locate where a brake pedal pulsation is coming from? I have one and can't tell if it's front or rear or side. -Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    Anyone have any suggestions how to locate where a brake pedal pulsation is coming from? I have one and can't tell if it's front or rear or side. -Thanks
    Like it is kicking back at you or not firm or like it is shuddering?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    Anyone have any suggestions how to locate where a brake pedal pulsation is coming from? I have one and can't tell if it's front or rear or side. -Thanks
    If the steering wheel shakes, then its the fronts. If the pedal pulsates back at you then it also probably the fronts. If its more like a rumble/pulsate noise, then its probably the rears.
    If the rear rotors(or fronts) are pretty rusty in the area where the pads rides against, that'll also clue you in to where the pulsation is coming from. Its also very possible that all 4 are pulsating.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    Anyone have any suggestions how to locate where a brake pedal pulsation is coming from? I have one and can't tell if it's front or rear or side. -Thanks
    Oops! Guess I hijacked this thread... Oh well.

    6LITEREATER
    Pedal is firm, ABS works [I can feel the ABS in the pedal]. Steering stays straight.
    Unnoticeable when driving easy. Comes in real quick if you get a little aggressive. Starts out as a very slight pedal pulsation, mostly the car shudders like a warped disc. Comes on strong if you get 'em hot.
    No rust on these discs!

    Cutlass
    You mean I would not feel a warped rear disc?

    Yeah I have a micrometer and a jack. Just wanted to hear what you guys thought...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    Oops! Guess I hijacked this thread... Oh well.


    Pedal is firm, ABS works [I can feel the ABS in the pedal]. Steering stays straight.
    Unnoticeable when driving easy. Comes in real quick if you get a little aggressive. Starts out as a very slight pedal pulsation, mostly the car shudders like a warped disc. Comes on strong if you get 'em hot.
    No rust on these discs!


    You mean I would not feel a warped rear disc?

    Yeah I have a micrometer and a jack. Just wanted to hear what you guys thought...

    I am NOT an expert by any means but my guess would be lines. The stock rubber lines cause fade under hard driving normally. Older lines are more prone to expansion.

    Stainless lines are a great upgrade regardless and hopefully would solve the issue (along with some new fluid and a good bleed).

    Anyone else know more than me?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    Pedal is firm, ABS works [I can feel the ABS in the pedal]. Steering stays straight.
    Unnoticeable when driving easy. Comes in real quick if you get a little aggressive. Starts out as a very slight pedal pulsation, mostly the car shudders like a warped disc. Comes on strong if you get 'em hot.
    No rust on these discs!


    You mean I would not feel a warped rear disc?
    Sometimes you can feel warped rear rotors, sometimes you just hear them rumble. Usually front rotors pulsate a little worse when you heat up the brakes. Guess you'll just have measure them to make sure. You need a dial indicator tool like this:


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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    Unnoticeable when driving easy. Comes in real quick if you get a little aggressive. Starts out as a very slight pedal pulsation, mostly the car shudders like a warped disc. Comes on strong if you get 'em hot.
    No rust on these discs!

    You mean I would not feel a warped rear disc?

    Yeah I have a micrometer and a jack. Just wanted to hear what you guys thought...
    Sounds like excessive rotor runout or the rotors are out-of-parallel.

    Typically you will not feel rotor runout unless is is very excessive, because the calipers (since F-bodys are floating calipers) will absorb the side-to-side motion of the rotor.

    In order to check rotor runout, you need a dial indicator, as Cutlass showed in his post. I would start by checking that.

    However, what you are feeling in the pedal may be the rotors being out of parallel. What can happen as rotors get runout, they will typically also go out of parallel. This means, in simple terms, "thickness variation". So as the rotor spins, the caliper pistons extend and retract as the pads from thinner section to thicker section. This is measured with a micrometer. Basically you mark off about 6 sections on the rotor (like a clock face) and then check each section with a micrometer. If your measurements exceed .0005" (half a thousandth) difference between each other, the rotor is out of parallel.
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