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Brake rotors wear out?

This is a discussion on Brake rotors wear out? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by ATCharming http://www.classicchevy.com/Images/cci/20-73.jpg i lightly sanded down the ends of those (those arent mine) cuz they were rusty ...

  1. #21
    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATCharming View Post
    http://www.classicchevy.com/Images/cci/20-73.jpg

    i lightly sanded down the ends of those (those arent mine) cuz they were rusty and dirty. i only did the ends cuz its the only part that slides thru.

    is that what we're talking about? if not, my bad...
    Phew...yes, those are the guide pins, the caliper bolts screw into those, yes, you would remove all grease, inspect for rust, if any lightly sand, clean and lube with high temp grease.

    The bolts themselves you would inspect for old loctite between the threads, and remove with a wire brush or wire wheel.

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    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ATCharming's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by {FzS}BlacKMagicK View Post
    Phew...yes, those are the guide pins, the caliper bolts screw into those, yes, you would remove all grease, inspect for rust, if any lightly sand, clean and lube with high temp grease.
    hahaha yea at least we're on the same page now
    just doing that will make a world of difference

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    K, all done. No dust or squeak. Took about 4 hours because i had a crappy jack and a few minor difficulties but all in all it went well and i had my gf along so she polished each wheel as i took them off and they now look clean and shiny

    Thanks for all the help, btw.

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    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richard head View Post
    K, all done. No dust or squeak. Took about 4 hours because i had a crappy jack and a few minor difficulties but all in all it went well and i had my gf along so she polished each wheel as i took them off and they now look clean and shiny

    Thanks for all the help, btw.
    There ya go, aren't you glad you saved that dough now?

    Girlfriend polished the wheels eh? Sounds like a keeper.

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    down in it 310stanger's Avatar
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    ok theres some misinformation going on. DONT lube up the threads on bolts pertaining to brakes. lube the SLIDES ( non threaded parts). also, you dont need to torque anything unless of course you have absolutely no ability on how to feel whether something is tight enough or not. dont waste your time using thread locker, if anything it jus cakes up all the shit on the bolts and next time you pull them out and put them back in you might cross thread them. I've NEVER had bolts loosen up or back out of any brake job i've ever done and by this point in my life i've done hundreds of them. brake grease doesnt hurt to put on the backs of pads if you want, but those shims that come on most pads normally take care of any squeeks you might get. the grease jus makes a nice mess most of the time.

    things you should do when you do brakes....
    1. get your rotors cut if you are not replacing
    2. bed your pads after servicing your new brakes
    3. double check all 4 bolts are tight before putting your wheels back on

    this stuff is not rocket science. anybody that fucks this stuff up really shouldnt be working on cars at all and shoud live with spending the money.

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    Junior Member dotcom2000's Avatar
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    had a rotor warp . when i changed it i put in ceramic pads - well worth the money

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    Quote Originally Posted by 310stanger View Post
    ok theres some misinformation going on. DONT lube up the threads on bolts pertaining to brakes. lube the SLIDES ( non threaded parts). also, you dont need to torque anything unless of course you have absolutely no ability on how to feel whether something is tight enough or not. dont waste your time using thread locker, if anything it jus cakes up all the shit on the bolts and next time you pull them out and put them back in you might cross thread them. I've NEVER had bolts loosen up or back out of any brake job i've ever done and by this point in my life i've done hundreds of them. brake grease doesnt hurt to put on the backs of pads if you want, but those shims that come on most pads normally take care of any squeeks you might get. the grease jus makes a nice mess most of the time.

    things you should do when you do brakes....
    1. get your rotors cut if you are not replacing
    2. bed your pads after servicing your new brakes
    3. double check all 4 bolts are tight before putting your wheels back on

    this stuff is not rocket science. anybody that fucks this stuff up really shouldnt be working on cars at all and shoud live with spending the money.
    idk if i said something about greasing the bolts, but yea i only meant the non threaded part.

    ur absolutely right tho :thumbsup:

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    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 310stanger View Post
    ok theres some misinformation going on. DONT lube up the threads on bolts pertaining to brakes. lube the SLIDES ( non threaded parts). also, you dont need to torque anything unless of course you have absolutely no ability on how to feel whether something is tight enough or not. dont waste your time using thread locker, if anything it jus cakes up all the shit on the bolts and next time you pull them out and put them back in you might cross thread them. I've NEVER had bolts loosen up or back out of any brake job i've ever done and by this point in my life i've done hundreds of them. brake grease doesnt hurt to put on the backs of pads if you want, but those shims that come on most pads normally take care of any squeeks you might get. the grease jus makes a nice mess most of the time.

    things you should do when you do brakes....
    1. get your rotors cut if you are not replacing
    2. bed your pads after servicing your new brakes
    3. double check all 4 bolts are tight before putting your wheels back on

    this stuff is not rocket science. anybody that fucks this stuff up really shouldnt be working on cars at all and shoud live with spending the money.

    AT meant to say the guide pins should be lubed, not the caliper bolts.

    As far as to torque or not to torque, I've always considered that a personal thing, to each his own.
    Thread locker is easy enough to get off, at least the blue, red is a little harder, I think it adds to peace of mind, again...a personal thing. I don't think either is critical, and I've done about 90% of the brake jobs I've done in my life without either and no problems, with my current car...this is my baby, I like the idea of knowing it's done to spec.
    I loads 'em up with grease, right on top of the shims, don't wanna hear nuthin but the radio, Borla and the occasional car load of girls.

    On a side note, my brother and I have been fighting for years on the neccessity or not of torquing,
    it's a running joke with us, always will be.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dotcom2000 View Post
    had a rotor warp . when i changed it i put in ceramic pads - well worth the money
    If the shop made you buy a new rotor you were had buddy. When my parents bought their new car it had horrible rotors, I mean it was like being on a vibrating bed every time you touched the brakes. Lot Rot they called it. They turned them and now they are perfect.

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    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    I'm still surprised you got 155k from your originals. I had to redo mine 3 times about 6 months apart from each other (country backroads lots of late braking on corners and several sudden "oh shit deer" stops). Mine is usually on the extereme side but with the Fbod's natural rotor warping tendencies andjust general wear 155K miles was pretty good. But slotted/drilled rotors and ceramic pads and 3 years later still all good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by {FzS}BlacKMagicK View Post
    There ya go, aren't you glad you saved that dough now?

    Girlfriend polished the wheels eh? Sounds like a keeper.

    Sheeyit yeah. I'm looking at springs because the rear of my car has a weird lean to it, my theory (as nothing on this car was properly cared for and it had been in several accidents and was cheaply fixed) is that someone busted one somewhere along the line and replaced it with one from a v6 or something. I'm also looking at Keith McCord's Power Plate

    The rims... she didn't do a perfect job but just the fact that she wanted to help out means she is DEF. a keeper... love her lots

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    Quote Originally Posted by 310stanger View Post
    ok theres some misinformation going on.
    Just wondering... how is torquing bolts to their correct specs or using thread lock considered misinformation? If you have a torque wrench, know how to use it and know what the correct specs are, why not do it right? That way, you know for an absolute fact that you torqued them correctly. Do you not use a torque wrench (or equivalent) when torquing down lug nuts? That's kind of important if you don't want to warp your rotors.

  13. #33
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    My car has only 41,xxx and i've already replaced the pads once. Had to turn the rotors to min to get them parallel. Next brake job is gonna need new rotors too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 310stanger View Post
    ok theres some misinformation going on. DONT lube up the threads on bolts pertaining to brakes. lube the SLIDES ( non threaded parts). also, you dont need to torque anything unless of course you have absolutely no ability on how to feel whether something is tight enough or not. dont waste your time using thread locker, if anything it jus cakes up all the shit on the bolts and next time you pull them out and put them back in you might cross thread them. I've NEVER had bolts loosen up or back out of any brake job i've ever done and by this point in my life i've done hundreds of them. brake grease doesnt hurt to put on the backs of pads if you want, but those shims that come on most pads normally take care of any squeeks you might get. the grease jus makes a nice mess most of the time.

    things you should do when you do brakes....
    1. get your rotors cut if you are not replacing
    2. bed your pads after servicing your new brakes
    3. double check all 4 bolts are tight before putting your wheels back on

    this stuff is not rocket science. anybody that fucks this stuff up really shouldnt be working on cars at all and shoud live with spending the money.
    I always torque the 4th gen lug nuts to 100 lbs-ft with a torque wrench. I use a bit of anti-seize (as the studs and nuts are unplated metal) on my 67 and torque to 65 lbs-ft with a torque wrench. I've never had a problem or a nut come off.

  15. #35
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    When you take your vehicle into a brake shop, by law they have to "mic the rotors". Over time from braking, the rotors thin out, or eventually warp (due to heat). When the mic reading falls below a certain measurement, by law they have to be replaced. Any reputable brake shop will not do the work unless you replace the rotors, for they are liable if your brakes go out (at least in California).

    I went with Baer Eradispeed 2 rotors coupled to Hawk HPS pads using the stock calipers, I replaced all 5 rubber brake hoses with Russell SS braided hoses. This setup made quiet a difference in the stopping capability of the vehicle.

    SteveC

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    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveC View Post
    When you take your vehicle into a brake shop, by law they have to "mic the rotors". Over time from braking, the rotors thin out, or eventually warp (due to heat). When the mic reading falls below a certain measurement, by law they have to be replaced. Any reputable brake shop will not do the work unless you replace the rotors, for they are liable if your brakes go out (at least in California).

    I went with Baer Eradispeed 2 rotors coupled to Hawk HPS pads using the stock calipers, I replaced all 5 rubber brake hoses with Russell SS braided hoses. This setup made quiet a difference in the stopping capability of the vehicle.

    SteveC
    Nice setup! And...expensive.

    Got any pics?

  17. #37
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Sorry no pics, however it is a small price to pay compaired to your life when you need to depend on your brakes.

    SteveC

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