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Brake rotors wear out?

This is a discussion on Brake rotors wear out? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I hadn't ever heard of this before but I took the T/A to Midas earlier to get the brakes checked ...

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    Brake rotors wear out?

    I hadn't ever heard of this before but I took the T/A to Midas earlier to get the brakes checked out because i hit the squeal tab last night on the back right. Now, I didn't think that it was possible to wear out a rotor but they told me that i had to replace them all. Too thin, in danger of cracking. Sounds like BS to me, but the car does have 155k on the clock. I went and bought some pads earlier and almost bought a set of rotors but then I remembered all the springs and bullshit for the E-Brake on the inside of the rotor. Any hints? Do rotors actually eventually wear out? If so, is there any kind of easy way to do the e-brake part without much hassle?

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    ƃuoɹʍ ʇsnɾ sı sıɥʇ Firebug's Avatar
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    Yep they can depending on the the frequency they are used (ie if you live in a heavy traffic area) and your style of driving. Hard compound brake pads also contribute to rotor wear. Softer pads wear quicker but give your rotors a longer life. Something has to wear out in the end...

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    Member Empatho's Avatar
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    yes they do wear out, just check them your self to see if there is something wrong with them because as you know shops always try to rip you off
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    yeah, i think i should be able to get it done for about half what midas quoted me, hell i could do it myself for about 85 bucks and they quoted 450. i guess now that i have decided to replace the rear rotors, i need to find someone who knows how the hell to do it.

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    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richard head View Post
    yeah, i think i should be able to get it done for about half what midas quoted me, hell i could do it myself for about 85 bucks and they quoted 450. i guess now that i have decided to replace the rear rotors, i need to find someone who knows how the hell to do it.
    It's pretty easy, if you have a good jack and some jack stands.

    For that money, you can get ceramic pads and slotted and drilled rotors all around if you do it yourself.

    It's only four bolts, you'd want to torque them to the right specs though, caliper bolts 23ftlbs. caliper frame mount 74ftlbs, also get get some red loctite for the caliper bolts and blue for the frame bolts.

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    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richard head View Post
    yeah, i think i should be able to get it done for about half what midas quoted me, hell i could do it myself for about 85 bucks and they quoted 450. i guess now that i have decided to replace the rear rotors, i need to find someone who knows how the hell to do it.
    It's pretty easy, if you have a good jack and some jack stands.

    For that money, you can get ceramic pads and slotted and drilled rotors all around if you do it yourself.

    It's only four bolts, you'd want to torque them to the right specs though, caliper bolts 23ftlbs. caliper frame mount 74ftlbs, also get get some red loctite for the caliper bolts and blue for the frame bolts.

    Oh and if they are the original rotors at 150,000 on the clock, they are DUN get 'em off.

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    yeah, i do expect it'll be a bitch... i have a good set of jack stands and a buddy has a good jack. The e-brake has a bunch of springs and shit inside of it though, right? i am beginning to be really torn between paying a couple hundred bux and learning to do it myself, maybe i should just get it done this time and do it myself next time lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by richard head View Post
    yeah, i do expect it'll be a bitch... i have a good set of jack stands and a buddy has a good jack. The e-brake has a bunch of springs and shit inside of it though, right? i am beginning to be really torn between paying a couple hundred bux and learning to do it myself, maybe i should just get it done this time and do it myself next time lol
    Noooooooooooo!!! learn it, you'll be so glad you did.

    Why do you feel you need to replace the ebrake? That should be fine, just leave it alone. All those pads ever do is press against the inside of the rotor, they really don't get worn out. There's no reason to mess with it.

    Look how easy it is go here...http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

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    fuck yeah rotors wear out! hahaha they rust, they are subject to 1,000+ degree heat etc. 155k? wow consider yourself lucky for going that long on rotors. midas is NOT trying to rip you off. however you can do much better on the prices of the pads and rotors if you get them yourself. if you are as clueless as you sound as far as doing your own brakes i highly suggest you have a friend do them for you if you decide you dont wanna spend the money.

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    mine didnt wear out, but got warped.
    after a few thousand miles... i just did a whole brake job today tho, so they are much better.

    idk about the ebrake cuz i did front ones.
    if u have any questions about the front discs i can answer them lol

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    okay, i'll pick up the parts at autozone and get started this weekend.

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    Follow the instructions in the InstallUniversity link above and you'll be fine. Make sure you torque the caliper bracket and caliper bolts to the proper specs and be sure to use thread lock. I wanna say 74 ft/lbs and 24 ft/lbs, respectively. Make sure you don't have your e-brake on (it kinda makes getting the rear rotors a little hard). Also, you might want to have a good size hammer (a small hand sledge works well) laying around 'cause the old rear rotors sometimes need a little tap here and there to work off. You don't have to dick around with the e-brake at all unless it's not working well to begin with.

    Oh yeah... get some brake grease and apply some to the outside portion of your pads before you remount the calipers. It'll help keep the brake squeal down. Just to make sure... DO NOT apply the grease to the portion of the pad that makes contact with the rotor. I only say that 'cause I sat in hobby shop a few weeks ago and watched a guy do that 'cause he thought that was where it was supposed to go. Some people are just too stupid for their own good.

    Marc

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    Drilled rotors crack, dimpled rotors ftw. My rear rotors are drilled down to the maximum wear allowance. So as soon as it goes smooth I will know they are done. Ez Pz! But yeah they are really easy to put on, and don't buy that bs about caliper bolts need to be brand new after you take them out.

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    if you don't know what your doing it can and will be dangerous for you, your passengers and anyone else driving on the road. $450 is worth your life , right?

    If the quote is too high, call and get some estimates then report your findings to Midas and ask them to do it cheaper or else you'll take your business else were
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    Midas can suck my what?

    Listen kid, I been doing brakes on cars since I was 15, it's something you have to learn, or over the course of your life expect to lay out huge sums for nuthin, and on top of it endanger your life.

    Here's why, I used to live in NY, most of my life, as anyone knows...winters are brutal, and if you need to have your brakes done and you can't get to a garage, you don't have a choice, unless you wanna end up found near your car lookin like Jack Nicholson in the end of The Shining.

    So the two times I had no choice, first one I brought it to Firestone, pay the outrageous sum, come back, pick up the car, drive away and clang...clang...clang...scraaaaappppppeeeeeeeee... WTF???

    Dumbass, didn't put the springs on that hold a crossbar across the rear drums, it fell out, and scored up the drums to holy hell.

    Next, was Midas, brought a Camaro there, 13 hours later and I had to wait the entire time, 'cause it was my DD, and I was headed to Pa. that weekend, had to miss work, then when I pull away, the whole car shakes so bad, I thought it was gonna vibrate apart, I bring it back, tell them what happened, the manager takes a ride with me, gets so scared, he's like "Go back...Go back...lol...they didn't tighten the caliper bolts all the way...so much for gettin it done..."right"

    The "mechanic" didn't even find the problem...I did, after 20 minutes of him looking at it, I went in the garage, he says he don't see anything wrong, I reach my hand around and twist on the caliper bolts and as I'm backing the bolts out with my fingers I say "How about this"?

    NeVer AgAin...Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice...shame on me...

    right George?


    Listen, you got all of us here to help you, you want...I'll PM you my cell.

    You don't need to be a rocket scientist (though it seems Haynes needs to hire some) if you get a Haynes manual, ignore the part where it says to put the pad with the low pad sensor tang on the outside...that pad goes on the inside.

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    Quote Originally Posted by b.lee View Post
    if you don't know what your doing it can and will be dangerous for you, your passengers and anyone else driving on the road. $450 is worth your life , right?

    If the quote is too high, call and get some estimates then report your findings to Midas and ask them to do it cheaper or else you'll take your business else were
    its not that complicated. we could easily explain it over the internet so he can do it himself or with a friend, etc

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    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ATCharming's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smkn_TA View Post
    Drilled rotors crack, dimpled rotors ftw. My rear rotors are drilled down to the maximum wear allowance. So as soon as it goes smooth I will know they are done. Ez Pz! But yeah they are really easy to put on, and don't buy that bs about caliper bolts need to be brand new after you take them out.
    yea new caliper bolts arent necessary. i just sanded mine down, smoothed them out and lubed them up.
    perfect now

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    Quote Originally Posted by ATCharming View Post
    yea new caliper bolts arent necessary. i just sanded mine down, smoothed them out and lubed them up.
    perfect now
    You sanded yours down?


    I hope you mean the the guide pins and not the bolts themselves, wire wheel or wire brush only on he caliper bolts, super light sandpaper on the guide pins and only if needed.

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    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ATCharming's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by {FzS}BlacKMagicK View Post
    You sanded yours down?


    I hope you mean the the guide pins and not the bolts themselves, wire wheel or wire brush only on he caliper bolts, super light sandpaper on the guide pins and only if needed.
    ? maybe im confused, and maybe i thought u were talkin about a different part. . .

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    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ATCharming's Avatar
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    http://www.classicchevy.com/Images/cci/20-73.jpg

    i lightly sanded down the ends of those (those arent mine) cuz they were rusty and dirty. i only did the ends cuz its the only part that slides thru.

    is that what we're talking about? if not, my bad...

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