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Thread: Brake question

  1. #1
    Junior Member *JC*'s Avatar
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    Brake question

    I was reading that a 98-02 F-body with Traction control brake system can't be bled without a scan tool?

    The reason I'm asking is I'm about to do the brakes on my car. I'm intending to change out the front rotors only and leave the factory ones on the rear. Plus put new brake pads on all four corners. This means I have to remove the calipers on the front axle only.

    If I don't losen the brake lines on the two front calipers when I go to replace the rotors, I shouldn't have a problem, right?

    Just follow the instructions about using a C- clamp to depress the caliper piston for the new brake pads and drain off the brake fluid as it backs up in the master, right?

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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Right

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    Junior Member *JC*'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93 View Post
    Right
    Thanks

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    down in it 310stanger's Avatar
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    inorder to change pads and rotors out there is absolutely no reason to open the lines up. however if you have a mushy pedal and air in your lines you can bleed them.

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    I just replaced all rotors and pads about a week ago. I also swapped out all of the old fluid and replaced it with DOT4. I bled the left rear first, the right rear second, the right front third and the left front last. I didn't use a scan tool and my brake pedal is firm and my ABS works fine. IMHO, the whole "you need a scan tool to simple crap" is exactly that... CRAP. Just another way for the service dept to squeeze more money out of you.

    Marc

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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    If you get air into the ABS block you WILL need it.

    That's why it's so important not to let the master run dry while bleeding.

  7. #7
    Junior Member *JC*'s Avatar
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    I see!

    I was wondering why you couldn't just bleed the brakes like any other normal car? I didn't understand what effect that would have on a traction control system or the need for a scan tool? However, I see your point (And theirs's) if air was to get into the traction control system that would complicate matters...

    Thanks fellas

  8. #8
    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93 View Post
    If you get air into the ABS block you WILL need it.

    That's why it's so important not to let the master run dry while bleeding.
    ^^^ Just like any other vehicle you wanna keep the reservior topped off as you're bleeding
    Quote Originally Posted by nytmare View Post
    I just replaced all rotors and pads about a week ago. I also swapped out all of the old fluid and replaced it with DOT4. I bled the left rear first, the right rear second, the right front third and the left front last. I didn't use a scan tool and my brake pedal is firm and my ABS works fine. IMHO, the whole "you need a scan tool to simple crap" is exactly that... CRAP. Just another way for the service dept to squeeze more money out of you.

    Marc
    I've always bled farthest from the master first and work my way closer....so it would go right rear, left rear, right front and left front. That's just me though..

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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    [quote=SeVeReDiStOrTiOn;982414I've always bled farthest from the master first and work my way closer....so it would go right rear, left rear, right front and left front. That's just me though..[/quote]

    That's correct bleeding proceure.
    When chasing a bubble you bleed exactly opposite.

    As long as you don't introduce air into the system a normal bleed procedure is adequate & you won't need the scan tool.

    Best to not "pump up" the pedal either. That was in the old single master cylinder, drum brake days.
    All that's needed is steady gentle pedal pressure to the floor......hold until bleeder is closed & release. Repeat as necessary.

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