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brake pad/rotor swap, need help asap!

This is a discussion on brake pad/rotor swap, need help asap! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; i've never installed brakes on a car before but figured i'd give it a try. that apparently was a bad ...

  1. #1
    Member Ripper415's Avatar
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    brake pad/rotor swap, need help asap!

    i've never installed brakes on a car before but figured i'd give it a try. that apparently was a bad decison. i'm in the middle of chaning all the pads/rotors on my 02 camaro ss but ran into problems. for the install im using my chilton book for 93-02 camaros and this website http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm the issues are that the book and site have slightly different methods for the install. here are my problems thus far

    1) the book says to use a c clamp to squeeze the pad/caliper in order to reposition the caliper piston. it says to do this to the old stuff before its removed from the car. supposidly this will cause the brake fluid in the container under the hood to rise and i'll then have to syphoon it off? the website says to take all the old stuff off, put the new stuff on, then use the clamp on the pistons directly and reattach the caliper, which will also cause the brake fluid to go up. my questions are which method is the best and how do i know when i've clamped enough and prevent myself from over squeezing it? also, what should i do to get rid of the brake fluid, suck it out with a turkey baster or something?

    2) the website says to put loctite on the caliper bolts but the book doesnt mention that, what should i do?

    3) the book says to put anti-squeal stuff on the pads before installing them but the website doesnt. i have ceramic pads which supposidly dont make any noise, so i dunno what is best.

    4) this may seem a little stupid but for the life of me i cant get the damn rotors off the car! i took off the calipers and the brackets and just assumed the rotors would slide right off but it's like they're welded on or something. is this just rust? should i spray some wd40 around the center and bang on it with a hammer till it pops off, or is there something i'm not doing right? (oh yeah, neither the book or website mentioned it but i found that each wheel has 3 washers which are like locked to the lug screws in order to prevent the rotors from coming off. they were a bitch and a half to remove, but i got them off, but STILL cant budge the rotors at all).

    any help you guys could give is greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    1
    I just take the lid off the reservoir and then put a big c-clamp and push it back in. I always wrap a towel around the reservoir but rarely does any come out the top. If you want to you can suck it out with a turkey baster depending on the miles on the fluid that's in there.
    2
    I always put loctite on the caliper bolts.
    3
    yeah, put anti squeal on the backs of the pads. You want it on the metal to metal contact points between the backs of the pads and the pistons and also between the backs of the pads and the bracket. Anywhere there's metal to metal contact. I always just use the hi-temp lube that I use on the pins. I put it in the channels too where the pads slide.
    4
    the rear rotors have a "keeper" on one of the studs that you'll have to work off there. I usually just toss mine but the smart thing to do is probably put them back on after you're done. If the keeper is off and the calipers are off and they still won't come off then just beat the piss out of them with a hammer. The fronts don't have the keepers.

  3. #3
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    To address your issues
    1 - When you put the c-clamp on, tighten it slowly. I've done it with the lid to the resevoir off and on and it doesn't seem to make a difference. Just turn it slowly and check to see when you can get the new pads over the rotor - you really can't tighten it too much. If you go slowly it usually doesn't overflow.
    2 - I don't put loctite on the bolts - your call though. I've never had a problem with them loosening. Just tighten them down well.
    3 - Follow Orion's directions on the anti squeal.
    4- Rotors can be tough to get off. Some have drilled and tapped holes in them and you can use a puller to get them off. Other than that just use a hammer and a lot of muscle. They should come off with a few good hits.
    Last edited by Knight; 03-06-2010 at 06:04 PM.
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    Member planemech2's Avatar
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    Clean the rust off the center hubs on the rear axle, then use some penetrating oil around the hub. That will break the rust between the brake rotor and hub.
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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Rotors have little retaining nuts about the thickness of a thin washer.....did you remove them??

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    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
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    okay.... you dont have to remove the caliper bolts from the caliper bracket. if you remove just the bracket the caliper will come off. if your pads are worn way thin and you have been adding fluid it most likely will come out of the resivoir, just wash it clean with water until there is no whiteness in the water. make sure you lube up the caliper pins or your inner pad will wear faster. dont put loctite on the bolts, they have it from the factory, they will be fine if you just get the tightned to spec. as far as antisqueal i dont use that stuff and i dont about 15 brake jobs a week. if you are getting your rotors cut then you can hit them with a hammer on the back side where your caliper mounts and just rotate it. the will come right off. make sure to adjust you eshoes when you put your rear rotors back on

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    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93 View Post
    Rotors have little retaining nuts about the thickness of a thin washer.....did you remove them??
    those lil pieces of metal with the lil fins? dikes will bite em and rip em right off

  8. #8
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue02Z View Post
    those lil pieces of metal with the lil fins? dikes will bite em and rip em right off
    Well yeah.....but they still need to be removed to get the rotors off lol!

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    i did not use anti squel paste.......or loctite.......BUT........the caliper pins were froze in the brackets on both fronts so be sure you check those....if not froze go ahead and pull them out and take off old grease and put new synthetic brake grease on .....i used summit drilled and slotted rotors with summit ceramic pads...........SWEET

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    and be sure you dont put pads in backwards

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    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    It is a little late but where in NY are you located?

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    Member 98Hardtop's Avatar
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    I f'n hate brakes...lol.

    Last time I did the front's I had to replace a damn caliper as it froze. The time before that on the other side, I had to drill out the seized slide pin and replace them.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Hardtop View Post
    I f'n hate brakes...lol.

    Last time I did the front's I had to replace a damn caliper as it froze. The time before that on the other side, I had to drill out the seized slide pin and replace them.
    if you keep the maintenance up on them though you don't have those issues and they're much easier/faster to do.

  14. #14
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    I JUST put cross-drilled rotors on last week so I hope I can help you out.

    1)I just used a C clamp to retract the piston. I put a little piece of wood b/w the clamp and piston so asnot to damage it and be sure I'm putting the pressure on the center instead of off to a side. Make sure you take the cap off your brake fluid, this relieves a lot of pressure.

    2) GM says that if you take off the caliper bolts you need to replace them with brand new ones because they have some kind of coating that helps hold them in place, but using lock tight does the same thing. I've heard stories of people losing these bolts on the highway, so it's important to do.


    4) A couple of mine were stuck too. I put WD 40 on them annd gently tapped them a few times and they came right off. I put a rag between the hammer and rotor to keep from damaging them.

  15. #15
    Member 98Hardtop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    if you keep the maintenance up on them though you don't have those issues and they're much easier/faster to do.
    Yep. Bought the car in 06, changed the pads 2 months later and then replaced them again in late 2009 when the caliper froze and wore them down.

  16. #16
    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    1. You only need to remove extra fluid if the brake fluid has been topped off (never do that). If the master is full before you clamp the pistons, use a turkey baster. Be very careful with thefluid - it is really bad for paint - if you get it on the paint wipe it off then hose it down. Put rags around the master to avoid spilling.

    2. Put a dab of red or blue locktite on the bolts and torque them to the proper torque.

    3. If the pads come with anti squeal plates or covers (look like extra pieces of metal or rubber on the back side of the pad) then you don't need antisqueal, otherwise use antisqueal compound.

    4. Put the lug nuts on to protect the lugs and then hit the face of the rotor flat in between the lugs - not on the braking surface. A few good raps and the rotor will pop free (its the rust holding it). Make sure as stated above that the retainer speed nuts are removed.

  17. #17
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    that turkey baster sure comes in handy.........a must for every tool box

  18. #18
    Member Ripper415's Avatar
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    thanks for all the help guys. everything went fairly smooth (once i got a can of pb blaster to get the damn rotors off lol).

  19. #19
    Member Thewilldog's Avatar
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    I'm having problems getting the rotors off as well. I just blasted the front and back of the thing with PB Blaster. Still no dice. Someone suggested using heat? Can you advise where I should apply it?

    http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...g/IMG_7447.jpg

    Thanks

  20. #20
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Find a big heavy hammer and smack the rotor hard. It'll pop right off

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