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Brake Job Questions

This is a discussion on Brake Job Questions within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I didn't see a 'brake' thread, this is as close as I could find. I'm also new to this site. ...

  1. #1
    Member TransAmTerry's Avatar
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    black
    02 TransAm Ramair WS6

    I didn't see a 'brake' thread, this is as close as I could find. I'm also new to this site. I've have had my 02 RamAir since new and have 79,000 miles on it and the front brakes are just now to where they need replacing ( maybe I'm not driving hard enough !) I bought Duralast rotors and Duralast C-max ceramic pads. I haven't done the job yet -is what I bought to do the job sound ok with you guys that have done brake jobs ?? I don't race it but I drive pretty 'briskly' most of the time ! Are there any pointers I should know that may be specific to this vehicle?? I've done brakes before but just not on this one. Any help/advice is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    Here, Terry, I copied your post into its own new thread for you.

  3. #3
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    I don't have any experience with ceramic pads -- generally with new pads and rotors there is a "bedding" procedure that should be followed to ensure that you get the most out of them. It involves a number of brake applications from a certain speed to heat the rotor and pads. This is followed by a cooling off period.

    Tips on replacing brakes:

    1. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake hose upon removal. Cut up a wire coat hanger and make a short hook for it.

    2. Remove and clean the caliper pins and their bores. Re-lube them with synthetic caliper grease.

    3. Uncap your brake reservoir and watch your fluid level as you press your pistons in. I use a piece of flat steel and a large C-clamp to evenly compress the pistons. Only do one side at a time or you will blow the pistons out of the other caliper. If the fluid level rises to high, use a turkey baster or something to siphon off the excess fluid.

    4. Be sure to torque everything to spec and use a dab of blue Loc-Tite on the bolt threads.

    5. Bleeding the brakes is generally optional, but it is a good idea. A Mity-Vac works great for this and can be used to easily flush out all the old, nasty fluid.

  4. #4
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Custom Swirly Black
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    Also...

    -Before you try and loosen some of your bolts, a product called PB blaster, when applied to the bolts helps in loosening them.

    -If the rotors give you trouble, use a rubber mallot (or a regular hammer and a piece of wood, holding the wood in area your attempting strike, striking the wood, not the rotor). Work a circular pattern, increasing your swing strength as you go along. Not really a must, since your not reusing the rotors, but still good practice. If that doesn't work, try stricking the rotor from behind/away from the car. Use a small amount of heat if all else fails.

    -I would also get some brake quiet by CRC, I've had a brand new stuff squeak in the past.

  5. #5
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
    1999 z28

    installuniversity.com has a greattttt write up on this hole procedure. i used it the other day and it was easy as pie

  6. #6
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    On your ass flashing
    my highbeams

    You'll be the guinea pig because I haven't heard of anyone using those brands. If you have a dial indicator you might mount the rotor on the different lugs to see which combo will give you the least amount of lateral run-out.

  7. #7
    Member vette0009's Avatar
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  8. #8
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Also...

    -Before you try and loosen some of your bolts, a product called PB blaster, when applied to the bolts helps in loosening them.

    -If the rotors give you trouble, use a rubber mallot (or a regular hammer and a piece of wood, holding the wood in area your attempting strike, striking the wood, not the rotor). Work a circular pattern, increasing your swing strength as you go along. Not really a must, since your not reusing the rotors, but still good practice. If that doesn't work, try stricking the rotor from behind/away from the car. Use a small amount of heat if all else fails.

    -I would also get some brake quiet by CRC, I've had a brand new stuff squeak in the past.

    I sometimes use a propane torch and heat the rotor around the wheel studs and axle flange. I had to do this on the back left rotor on the T/A after we first bought it. The dead blow hammer wasn't even moving it. If you are re-installing the same rotor, use some emory paper to dress the center hole and remove any rust build up.

  9. #9
    Member vette0009's Avatar
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    2003 Z06 Corvette

    I had 3 frozen rotors on my car
    I just shot some liquid wrench around the wheel studs
    and where the Hub meets the rotor

    Then I turned the rotor and tapped on the top edge till it broke free

  10. #10
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    silver
    2000 formula

    do ALL the pins..........front and back.....might even wanna buy new pins before hand

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