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brake job ?

This is a discussion on brake job ? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I'm planning a rear brake job rotors & pads. ? before I remove the caliptors can I remove the brake ...

  1. #1
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    brake job ?

    I'm planning a rear brake job rotors & pads.

    ? before I remove the caliptors can I remove the brake fluid resover lid

    then use a large screwdriver to force the old pads in to make room for the new thicker pads?

    or must I use a large C-clamp to force the caliptor piston in?

    I did a search.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Bone it like you own it FORD RECOVERY EXPERT's Avatar
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    C-Clamp is the way to go unless you buy the "tool" for it, which does the exact same thing for 2wice the cost...


    C-Clamps can be had new a Vato Zone for less than $10...


    just be sure to back it up with the old pad, and dont push directly on the piston.

  3. #3
    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    leave the lid on - just loosen it, and make sure the master is not too full, I always put a few rags around it in case fluid overflows.

    there are several ways to "retract" the caliper piston bu a C clamp is recommended so you don't "cock" the piston and possibly score the caliper.

    Remember to release the emergency brake when you get the wheels off or the rotor isn't coming off!

    Take your time and jump back here to ask if you run into questions along the way.

  4. #4
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    silver
    99 ws6

    c-clamp

    OK I'll spend a few bucks on the big C-clamp.

    I have also been told that the ten year old brake fluid will be fine to leave in was told brake fluid does'nt break down like motor oil?

    Thanks
    Last edited by qwik219d9; 06-06-2009 at 12:33 PM.

  5. #5
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwik219d9 View Post
    OK I'll spend a few bucks on the big C-clamp.

    I have also been told that the ten year old brake fluid will be fine to leave in was told brake fluid does'nt break down like motor oil?

    Thanks
    It doesn't have to be a big C-clamp.....I use a 6 inch.

    Brake fluid absorbs water! Change it!

  6. #6
    Bone it like you own it FORD RECOVERY EXPERT's Avatar
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    If it aint black, leave it alone. Other wise, you'll spend all day trying to bleed the air back outta the system.

  7. #7
    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    One of the important chracteristics of brake fluid is to expel moisture. That capability breaks down over time. If you have the time and really want to "do it right", then definitely change the fluid, it will help all the other parts to last longer.

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    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    One thing I do is one brake at a time. Than one you have one all together again just pump the brakes a few times and you will not have to really worry about the fluid overflowing.

  9. #9
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    The brake tool is 10 bucks at autozone with the knob. I broke the knob and smacked a 13mm socket on the end with a hammer so I can use air tools to compress the pistons While your in there you can adjust the rear ebrake as well.

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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FORD RECOVERY EXPERT View Post
    If it aint black, leave it alone. Other wise, you'll spend all day trying to bleed the air back outta the system.
    This is why it's important to keep the resivoir filled.....you won't get air unless you allow the fluid to get too low.

    Suck old fluid out with turkey baster, re-fill with fresh, bleed about 3 to 4 times, re-fill....repeat until clean fluid comes out, move to next wheel.
    Simple.

  11. #11
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93 View Post
    This is why it's important to keep the resivoir filled.....you won't get air unless you allow the fluid to get too low.

    Suck old fluid out with turkey baster, re-fill with fresh, bleed about 3 to 4 times, re-fill....repeat until clean fluid comes out, move to next wheel.
    Simple.
    sounds like I got some boguy advice w/ the big screw driver and leaving the ten year old fluid in.

    I'm glad I have a helpfull resouce here at LS1.com

    I was thinking of the Turkey bastor method priced one at the Dallor store for $1. Looks like I'll need an assistant to pump the brakes.

    ? on bleeding one man pumps where to buy and how much?

    This will be my first complete brake job just wanting to CMA.

    Thanks

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwik219d9 View Post
    sounds like I got some boguy advice w/ the big screw driver and leaving the ten year old fluid in.

    I'm glad I have a helpfull resouce here at LS1.com

    I was thinking of the Turkey bastor method priced one at the Dallor store for $1. Looks like I'll need an assistant to pump the brakes.

    ? on bleeding one man pumps where to buy and how much?

    This will be my first complete brake job just wanting to CMA.

    Thanks
    The one man bleeding pumps are 20 bucks at any auto store. Hell most of the time you can attach a hose and gravity bleed the bastards.

  13. #13
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    You can probably use a big screwdriver to pry the piston back while the caliper is still bolted on the rearend. Just pry in between the pad and the rotor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwik219d9 View Post
    sounds like I got some boguy advice w/ the big screw driver and leaving the ten year old fluid in.

    I'm glad I have a helpfull resouce here at LS1.com

    I was thinking of the Turkey bastor method priced one at the Dallor store for $1. Looks like I'll need an assistant to pump the brakes.

    ? on bleeding one man pumps where to buy and how much?

    This will be my first complete brake job just wanting to CMA.

    Thanks
    don't get the one man bleeder buy your buddy a six pack instead

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ99Z28 View Post
    don't get the one man bleeder buy your buddy a six pack instead
    True. I work wierd hours and dont always have that option

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    Stockitie Stock Stock 95camaroZNC's Avatar
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    Get a piece of scrap metal to put over the pistons and then use the c-clamp on the middle of that. Thats how i did it.

  17. #17
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    ..anyone know the "dot" value on a stock 01 ss..mine is still the original..car has 17000 miles..since new..may service brakes this summer..I have a slight pulsation in the front when brakes get really hot..at some point I'll replace front pads, front rotors, then check rears..what is the wear ratio front to back..how many miles can you expect out of a factory ss model pads and rotors..i live in northern climate..heat is not a real issue here..thanks for any suggestions and replys..P.S. seen an 2010 camaro ss at local dealer..them silver ones look hot..but happy with my 01 for now

  18. #18
    Bone it like you own it FORD RECOVERY EXPERT's Avatar
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    DOT 3..... should say on the Reservoir lid

  19. #19
    Bone it like you own it FORD RECOVERY EXPERT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95camaroZNC View Post
    Get a piece of scrap metal to put over the pistons and then use the c-clamp on the middle of that. Thats how i did it.


    Use the old pad........

  20. #20
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    http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php...roducts_id=529

    Ill throw this out here too. Many people think these tools are expensive.. The right tool for the right job will save you a headache, time and money in the end

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