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Blowing my load on MODS, what do you think

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  1. #1
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    Blowing my load on MODS, what do you think

    For my 2002 WS6

    I just bought Torque thrust M rims 9” front, and 10.5” rear $745 with shipping and gorilla lifetime locks & lugs from Tomz wheels

    Front Tires
    Nitto 555 275/40/ 17 $144 (If these are the biggest that fit) from Discount Tire – free shipping

    Nitto 555 285/40/17 $158 (IF they will fit) from Discount Tire – free shipping

    Real Tires
    Nitto 555 315/35/17 $199 Hubcap House Unlimited’s online ebay store – free shipping

    Exhaust

    Pacesetter Headers & TSP Catted Y-Pipe Combo (Ceramic coated, with ERG ports and front 24” O2 extensions)
    Do I want ERG Ports?
    And do I want to turn of my rear O2 sensors (as the y-pipes say there’s no fittings for them…do I want to make fittings?)
    $740 from Texas Speed and Performance

    Corsa Exhaust – A place called andysautosport.com appears to have them cheap

    What they call “Corsa Exhaust Systems – Twin Premium Pro Series Tips (14140) ” for $867.16
    Or a “Corsa Exhaust Systems – Twin Pro Series 3 ½” Tips (14143) “ for $741.79
    Unfortuneately they have no pictures so I can’t tell the difference in what the tips look like, but these seem like really good prices for a Corsa system.

    Induction

    It looks like there is 2 routes I could go:

    Option #1) Air Filters, SLP Blackwing, K&N, or Holley Powershot….is there any definitive answer to which is best (good flow and safe filtering) ??

    and a Fast Toys Ram Air System $181.99 plus $14.99 shipping from LM Performance (I’m assuming this is the best “system” of this type though I see others such as Austin Ram Air SSRA or a SLP Cold Air Induction Package

    and of course an SLP air lid $89.99 plus 12.95 shipping from LM Performance

    Option #2 is a kit like the K&N FIPK or the Volant Cold Air induction $300-$400 from various places

    And I also see the JAAM Ram Air System (at Fasttoys.net) for $211 - This System looks attractive to me as it does not have anything running up from under the car to obstruct the cooling of the radiator or tranny cooler and there is nothing under the car to hit the pavement.

    Basically…Should I go with the FTRA system or the JAAM…how low does the FTRA hang under the car, will it likely hit something if I lower the car and have VERY rough roads to drive on. Which on actually works better? And will the FTRA heat up the car enough to worry about, or heat up the tranny by blocking air flow to its cooler (that’s a concern for me)

    Suspension/Chassis

    I’m going to call up strano performance and see what recommendations they have, as I hear they are the guys to talk to. But I’m thinking this for now:

    UMI Chrome Moly Shock Tower Brace $99.99 - LM Performance
    Subframe Connectors…I’m thinking 3 point as I might do some autoX or other crazyness. Either UMI tubular or SLP square boxed. Not sure about bolt in or weld in. I’m sure weld is better, but couldn’t I also weld the bolt in variety to get even more strength?

    Sophen Solid 4140 Chrome Moly Sway Bar Kit 32mm front, 22mm rear $325.71 plus $21.99 shipping - LM Performance

    I may also go with springs and shocks…but is are there decent shocks cheaper than Koni Yellows ($820) ? And can I get good springs that don’t lower me much. I would say 1” is my max, but ¾” would be preferable….things are just to rough in my area, and my own driveway is way way too steep, even entering at an angle.

    Other Various things

    Should I upgrade the tranny cooler…if so, can someone recommend a kit and where to get it

    Tranny Kit (Shift Kit) – again, can someone please recommend a kit and where to get it

    Anyone have experience with how much these two will cost to have a shop install?

    Thermostate…what is stock temp, is it 195? I’ve heard too low can be bad, so maybe I’ll throw in a 180, or should I just go for the 160?

    Plugs and wires….Not sure what wires I’m going with but I’m guessing I don’t want stock plugs, can someone those out a name/model number

    A tune, I definetly want a tune….there’s a local shop with virtually no experience who says they have the the knowledge and equipment to do it, just not sure if I believe them.

    With this level of mods should I go mail order from a place with history, or get the shop tune…or take a 500 mile trip sometime this summer and get a tune from a more reputable shop. What kinda costs are those going to run.
    Last edited by Intrepidman; 02-11-2009 at 06:29 AM.

  2. #2
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Stranoparts has a UMI 3 point SFC and Strut tower brace for $378 which saves you some. Thats whats Im gunna be getting soon

  3. #3
    Junior Member NicksTA's Avatar
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    ok...I dont have that much cash to spend at this time...Whats the best/cheapest mods for a 98 TA Vert A4???

  4. #4
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicksTA View Post
    ok...I dont have that much cash to spend at this time...Whats the best/cheapest mods for a 98 TA Vert A4???
    Lid best bang for the buck mod and usually the first

  5. #5
    MANWHORE TEAM suede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intrepidman View Post
    For my 2002 WS6

    I just bought Torque thrust M rims 9” front, and 10.5” rear $745 with shipping and gorilla lifetime locks & lugs from Tomz wheels

    Front Tires
    Nitto 555 275/40/ 17 $144 (If these are the biggest that fit) from Discount Tire – free shipping

    Nitto 555 285/40/17 $158 (IF they will fit) from Discount Tire – free shipping

    Real Tires
    Nitto 555 315/35/17 $199 Hubcap House Unlimited’s online ebay store – free shipping

    Exhaust

    Pacesetter Headers & TSP Catted Y-Pipe Combo (Ceramic coated, with ERG ports and front 24” O2 extensions)
    Do I want ERG Ports?
    And do I want to turn of my rear O2 sensors (as the y-pipes say there’s no fittings for them…do I want to make fittings?)
    $740 from Texas Speed and Performance

    Corsa Exhaust – A place called andysautosport.com appears to have them cheap

    What they call “Corsa Exhaust Systems – Twin Premium Pro Series Tips (14140) ” for $867.16
    Or a “Corsa Exhaust Systems – Twin Pro Series 3 ½” Tips (14143) “ for $741.79
    Unfortuneately they have no pictures so I can’t tell the difference in what the tips look like, but these seem like really good prices for a Corsa system.

    Induction

    It looks like there is 2 routes I could go:

    Option #1) Air Filters, SLP Blackwing, K&N, or Holley Powershot….is there any definitive answer to which is best (good flow and safe filtering) ??

    and a Fast Toys Ram Air System $181.99 plus $14.99 shipping from LM Performance (I’m assuming this is the best “system” of this type though I see others such as Austin Ram Air SSRA or a SLP Cold Air Induction Package

    and of course an SLP air lid $89.99 plus 12.95 shipping from LM Performance

    Option #2 is a kit like the K&N FIPK or the Volant Cold Air induction $300-$400 from various places

    And I also see the JAAM Ram Air System (at Fasttoys.net) for $211 - This System looks attractive to me as it does not have anything running up from under the car to obstruct the cooling of the radiator or tranny cooler and there is nothing under the car to hit the pavement.

    Basically…Should I go with the FTRA system or the JAAM…how low does the FTRA hang under the car, will it likely hit something if I lower the car and have VERY rough roads to drive on. Which on actually works better? And will the FTRA heat up the car enough to worry about, or heat up the tranny by blocking air flow to its cooler (that’s a concern for me)

    Suspension/Chassis

    I’m going to call up strano performance and see what recommendations they have, as I hear they are the guys to talk to. But I’m thinking this for now:

    UMI Chrome Moly Shock Tower Brace $99.99 - LM Performance
    Subframe Connectors…I’m thinking 3 point as I might do some autoX or other crazyness. Either UMI tubular or SLP square boxed. Not sure about bolt in or weld in. I’m sure weld is better, but couldn’t I also weld the bolt in variety to get even more strength?

    Sophen Solid 4140 Chrome Moly Sway Bar Kit 32mm front, 22mm rear $325.71 plus $21.99 shipping - LM Performance

    I may also go with springs and shocks…but is are there decent shocks cheaper than Koni Yellows ($820) ? And can I get good springs that don’t lower me much. I would say 1” is my max, but ¾” would be preferable….things are just to rough in my area, and my own driveway is way way too steep, even entering at an angle.

    Other Various things

    Should I upgrade the tranny cooler…if so, can someone recommend a kit and where to get it

    Tranny Kit (Shift Kit) – again, can someone please recommend a kit and where to get it

    Anyone have experience with how much these two will cost to have a shop install?

    Thermostate…what is stock temp, is it 195? I’ve heard too low can be bad, so maybe I’ll throw in a 180, or should I just go for the 160?

    Plugs and wires….Not sure what wires I’m going with but I’m guessing I don’t want stock plugs, can someone those out a name/model number

    A tune, I definetly want a tune….there’s a local shop with virtually no experience who says they have the the knowledge and equipment to do it, just not sure if I believe them.

    With this level of mods should I go mail order from a place with history, or get the shop tune…or take a 500 mile trip sometime this summer and get a tune from a more reputable shop. What kinda costs are those going to run.
    Alright let me take a stab at some of this.....

    Tires- Correct me if im wrong but wouldnt putting 555's on the front, be putting a drag radial on the front? I would think you would want jsut a say summer performance or something... im not a tire guy so cant say much there...

    Exhaust- I'm thinking the lil bit extra, is going to be for the chrome tips... but i'd contact them and ask the difference...

    Induction- option one is going to cost roughly $350, and not a bad setup...

    option two is by far your best, easiest, and cost effective hands down... ws6store sells them for i believe 290 or so, and the volant seals up to your hood just as any of the JAAM air or Fast toys will, just in a different way, the volant will have a larger plennum to draw air from in the first place and will yield more power.... go with this option...

    Suspension- STB's are alot of cosmetic help more than anything, but if you are going to auto-x it may be benneficial, and yes you can weld in the bolt-in style, this will actually be the sturdiest and also go with 3 points if i were you... sway bars-personal preference, and yes you can get shocks/springs that will not lower the car at all, or ones that will lower it as far as you want to go, but i would highly suggest sticking with koni's, just talk to sam strano he will get you straightened out...


    You dont have a tranny cooler (stock), but if you are going to put in a shift kit, it is highly recommended... they run about 80 bucks for the kit i believe...

    If your going to go with a new thermo, go with a 160, your temps will still be above that, but esp with auto-x you will notice it more, but when you do this mod, you will also need a fan overide switch or use a tuner to reprogram the temp at which your fans kick in, anyone who can flash your pcm can do this...

    well i hope that helps...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicksTA View Post
    ok...I dont have that much cash to spend at this time...Whats the best/cheapest mods for a 98 TA Vert A4???

    the best mod at this time is no mod!!!!

    SAVE YOUR MONEY!!!!!

    Dont throw your money away just for the sheer joy of modding it.

    I would recomend you'd start with a lid and filter.

  7. #7
    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    2000 Grand Prix GTP
    2000 Trans Am WS6 M6

    I would also suggest buying used parts...save a little money and they work the same as new parts.

  8. #8
    MANWHORE TEAM suede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hurraquio View Post
    the best mod at this time is no mod!!!!

    SAVE YOUR MONEY!!!!!

    Dont throw your money away just for the sheer joy of modding it.

    I would recomend you'd start with a lid and filter.
    *Family Guy* I DISSAGREE.... *drives off*


    but anyways, i do not recomend a lid/filter, b/c then you are limited in your options later on if you would want to consider a Cold Air Kit like Volant, I look at it as do it once, do it right... but i would say something in the suspension department, like Boxed Lower Control Arms, they will greatly affect your traction issues... and it still leaves you options open in the motor department for when you decide what you really want...

  9. #9
    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    the nitto 555s are not drag radials. the 555Rs are the drags. ok if you are going to get a tune right away i would go for the stuff without the egr and rear o2 sensors. because you have no egr system being a 2002 vehicle(2001 and 2002 came with the ls6 intake instead of the ls1 which is an upgrade and it has no egr). and the rear o2 sensors can be tuned out(by any decent tuner). go to ls1sounds.com to hear the various exhaust set ups to make a decision on what you want as far as headers and cat-back.

    the slp lid and the ftra seem like a solid choice but your car is a ws6 and has a much better ram air hood than the camaro ss version. which means air goes straight in from the nose of the car to the intake if you get a volant intake and sealed connection to the hood openings. some say having both a sealed ram air hood and an undercar ram air/cold air kit are the way to go but theoretically i would assume it would be better to go with either the hood or undercar cold air. someone with a bit more info on the ram air vs cold air might chime in to clear things up a bit. and i am not familiar with the JAAM kit.

    next subject is suspension. go to stranoparts.com and get the phone number and sam strano can suggest parts for you no matter what you intend to throw at the car. the parts that he will suggest will more than likely compliment your setup that you are shooting for. the only must haves for playing with the car that i know of 100% for sure are subframe connecters. 3 point are the best and umi has them cheaper than slp no matter where you go, new compared to new at least.

    tranny coolers can be bought from autozone and/or other various auto parts store. i would get probably a 24000 or higher gvu unit. the shift kit to get is the transgo hd2 kit for the 4l60e. i got mine from ebay for $80 before shipping. you never mentioned anything about it but i would get a stall torque converter rated around 3500 rpms. many will agree that a stall is one of the best, of not the best, mod for an automatic. i got a 180 degree thermostat which works fine in this vegas heat so far but if you go with a 160 get the fans set up to come on and off within that range as opposed to them turning on at close to 190. msd spark plug wires and ngk t55 spark plugs are a popular choice. personnaly i have the msd wire and acdelco iridium plugs and they are more than satisfying enough for me.

    all in all you touched up on most of the bolt ons available for our car. it will be spendy for sure but it will also be well worth it when you play with it after its all said and done. you have alot on your plate seeing as how most of it should be done together, and just a quick reminder a mail order tune can cover alot of stuff that a personnal dyno tune but it will not be 100% right for the car. but they will be alot safer for your engine than not getting one at all. i am not sure if lsxtune.com still has the $125 special for mail order tunes.
    2000 white z28, t-tops, free mods, intake, full exhaust, dyno tune, repro c5 z06 wheels, and some elbow grease here and there.

  10. #10
    MANWHORE TEAM suede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00z28bubba View Post
    the nitto 555s are not drag radials. the 555Rs are the drags. ok if you are going to get a tune right away i would go for the stuff without the egr and rear o2 sensors. because you have no egr system being a 2002 vehicle(2001 and 2002 came with the ls6 intake instead of the ls1 which is an upgrade and it has no egr). and the rear o2 sensors can be tuned out(by any decent tuner). go to ls1sounds.com to hear the various exhaust set ups to make a decision on what you want as far as headers and cat-back.

    the slp lid and the ftra seem like a solid choice but your car is a ws6 and has a much better ram air hood than the camaro ss version. which means air goes straight in from the nose of the car to the intake if you get a volant intake and sealed connection to the hood openings. some say having both a sealed ram air hood and an undercar ram air/cold air kit are the way to go but theoretically i would assume it would be better to go with either the hood or undercar cold air. someone with a bit more info on the ram air vs cold air might chime in to clear things up a bit. and i am not familiar with the JAAM kit.

    next subject is suspension. go to stranoparts.com and get the phone number and sam strano can suggest parts for you no matter what you intend to throw at the car. the parts that he will suggest will more than likely compliment your setup that you are shooting for. the only must haves for playing with the car that i know of 100% for sure are subframe connecters. 3 point are the best and umi has them cheaper than slp no matter where you go, new compared to new at least.

    tranny coolers can be bought from autozone and/or other various auto parts store. i would get probably a 24000 or higher gvu unit. the shift kit to get is the transgo hd2 kit for the 4l60e. i got mine from ebay for $80 before shipping. you never mentioned anything about it but i would get a stall torque converter rated around 3500 rpms. many will agree that a stall is one of the best, of not the best, mod for an automatic. i got a 180 degree thermostat which works fine in this vegas heat so far but if you go with a 160 get the fans set up to come on and off within that range as opposed to them turning on at close to 190. msd spark plug wires and ngk t55 spark plugs are a popular choice. personnaly i have the msd wire and acdelco iridium plugs and they are more than satisfying enough for me.

    all in all you touched up on most of the bolt ons available for our car. it will be spendy for sure but it will also be well worth it when you play with it after its all said and done. you have alot on your plate seeing as how most of it should be done together, and just a quick reminder a mail order tune can cover alot of stuff that a personnal dyno tune but it will not be 100% right for the car. but they will be alot safer for your engine than not getting one at all. i am not sure if lsxtune.com still has the $125 special for mail order tunes.
    tires-- i stand corrected

    emisions--- remove them and tune out the rears...

    induction--- the volant does seal up and creates a ram air, but rather then the pressure going through that lil slit in the front of the airbox, it builds pressure in the whole box... Volant is by far the best choice, esp for the money...

    spark- MDS superconductor wires and NGK tr55 plugs are a solid combo

    thermo- 160 and retune fan on temps...

    GET A TUNE....

  11. #11
    2001 ws6 6-speed david_viny's Avatar
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    Nice list! I'm about to drop some loads into my car too. (uhuhuh) At least an intake and exhaust.

  12. #12
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    I am looking at clutch flywheel, and a volant intake, and some wheels. Cant wait for my Tax refund

  13. #13
    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicksTA View Post
    ok...I dont have that much cash to spend at this time...Whats the best/cheapest mods for a 98 TA Vert A4???
    Subframe connectors and a stall then CAI

  14. #14
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Get a regular lid and skip the K&N/Powershot, paper filter works just as good. FTRA works great but if you have a WS6 you may just want to remove the baffles in the hood and seal the box to your hood. I'd skip the catted Y myself and go off road and get headers with no emissions fittings. Try to get stainless headers if you can afford em, ceramic coated ones will rust in the long run. 160' thermostat is a good mod if your getting your car tuned, rig the fans to come on earlier with the thermostat. Get weld in subframe connectors and have them welded (of course), I like Spohn suspension stuff myself.

  15. #15
    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Get a regular lid and skip the K&N/Powershot, paper filter works just as good. FTRA works great but if you have a WS6 you may just want to remove the baffles in the hood and seal the box to your hood. I'd skip the catted Y myself and go off road and get headers with no emissions fittings. Try to get stainless headers if you can afford em, ceramic coated ones will rust in the long run. 160' thermostat is a good mod if your getting your car tuned, rig the fans to come on earlier with the thermostat. Get weld in subframe connectors and have them welded (of course), I like Spohn suspension stuff myself.
    Kinda disagree, the 160 stat is kinda low on these cars. I was reading up somewhere these motors like to run at about 190 so id go with the 180 stat with the tune to have the fans kick on sooner. Also, if you want weld ons go for it but for low HP/TQ cars (450 and less) the bolt ons work just as good. Your not going to snap a bolt and in the long run if you decide you want to return the car to stock or change from 2 pt to 3 pt or something you always have that option. Just me .02

  16. #16
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by basballny2 View Post
    Kinda disagree, the 160 stat is kinda low on these cars. I was reading up somewhere these motors like to run at about 190 so id go with the 180 stat with the tune to have the fans kick on sooner. Also, if you want weld ons go for it but for low HP/TQ cars (450 and less) the bolt ons work just as good. Your not going to snap a bolt and in the long run if you decide you want to return the car to stock or change from 2 pt to 3 pt or something you always have that option. Just me .02
    Well I disagree too. Suspension will not be as tight with bolt in connectors, period. Notice turning corners tighter at 15mph (off the gas) so torque/hp is irrelavent. With a 160 thermo the car will run about 180'. With a 180' it will run hotter. The rating is just the temp when it opens.
    Last edited by INMY01TA; 02-12-2009 at 02:55 PM.

  17. #17
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    I have heard of plenty of people having to re-tighten their SFC bolts. Ill stay with my wled in thank you.

  18. #18
    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    ive never heard of weld-ons making it noticably stiffer than bolt ons. As for the thermostat, ls1's from what ive read like to operate at around 190-195, thats why i say the 180 stat might be a better investment.

  19. #19
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by basballny2 View Post
    ive never heard of weld-ons making it noticably stiffer than bolt ons. As for the thermostat, ls1's from what ive read like to operate at around 190-195, thats why i say the 180 stat might be a better investment.
    I've read, heard, and had great results with the opposite. Do what you like.

  20. #20
    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    You've compared the two? Driven in both with the same mods? Also im talking low output cars < 450 HP

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