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Best street/strip cam for A4 01 ls1 ss?!?

This is a discussion on Best street/strip cam for A4 01 ls1 ss?!? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Alright guys need some help to learn about cams and what would be the best street/strip cam for an A4 ...

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Best street/strip cam for A4 01 ls1 ss?!?

    Alright guys need some help to learn about cams and what would be the best street/strip cam for an A4 01 camaro ss LS1!?!
    2001 Camaro SS, LM 1, BMR LCA, relocation brackets, BMR springs, adj panhard bar, smooth below, lid, sub-frame connectors weld on, strut brace
    2000 WS6, ls6 intake, sub-frame connectors, slp maf, slp cat delete with slp y-pipe, electric cutout, strut brace, smooth below, slp lid, bmr LCA and RLB

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    People tend to like the torquer cams v2 and v3. MS3 wouldn't be a bad choice either, there's plenty of options for you.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    TREX!!!


    For real though we need a lot more specifics about what you want to recommend a cam. What stall are you going to be running in your car as a stall is necessary with any decent cam, is the car a DD, weekend cruiser or what? Is do you want it to drive smooth as stock or do you not mind the bucking that comes with a large cam? What mods do you have planned for the future?

    Before you get a cam you really "should" have a stall since you have an auto, a full exhaust system with headers (not absolutely necessary but its a good idea), and an intake lid. These mods will not only help your car now but a cam without doing these things is like making a milk shake and trying to slurp it through a coffee stirring stick. The cam sound will be there but it wont be close to its potnential because of all the other things weighing it down.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    "Best" is subjective and personal preference. Everyone's idea of too big is different. Plenty of proven combo's out there though.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    To get you started, there are a ton of different lobe profiles, and various combinations of duration and lift. No 2 cams are the same even if the duration and lift numbers look the same on paper. Every engine builder has their specific likes and dislikes. I'd confer with a few and get an idea.

    You can easily do a "cam only" with a good exhaust, and a stall converter to make an 11 second car without that much of a cam,,,say something in the 230+ at .050 range.

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Well the car is stock for the most part. has the slp lid,smooth bellow, mass air flow sensor, and plan on getting slp loud mouth soon. the car isnt a DD but still drive it a lot.

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    Senior Member Z28Thunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    "Best" is subjective and personal preference. Everyone's idea of too big is different. Plenty of proven combo's out there though.
    I agree with you FBJ....

    O1SsRacing

    Check this sticky out in the internal section..

    Camshaft Guide - Information / Write up

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    I'd really suggest getting a set on longtubes so that you can properly benefit from a decent sized cam. With that said if you do a cam without a stall converter the car will be a complete dog and be more of a pain to drive. The stall converter will help get the motor into its peak hp rpm range quicker and also keep it there and it will also allow the idle to be raised for the cam without wanting to push through the brakes. If you dont want to do a stall or lt's your choices of a cam are pretty limited to the ls6 cam the old man cam or the cheatr cam these are all small cams with little to no lope and much better gains can be had by going with a cam in the mid 220's duration. You would still get great driveability, sound and power from a mid 220's cam without really making any sacrifices.

    My advice would be go read the cam stickies to help decide what you want then get a good stall converter and lt's. A good converter will easily take .6 of your et and the lt's will help pickup a good bit also. After you get these two and if the the car still isnt fast enough then get a cam and you will be much better prepared for it. Your car with decent tires, good air, your mods plus lt's and a good stall would hit high 11's with the stock cam on a good day. A cam without a stall converter will not net you really any gains in the 1/4 and may even slow you down because by adding a cam you sacrifice power down low in order to get much more up high, stall will help you take advantage of this.

    ls1 (v6 gauge cluster) with 3200 stall


    ls1 no stall
    Last edited by redbird555; 08-18-2011 at 09:41 AM.

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Been a Big help man! yeah I knew a stall would help but i didnt know you need that before a cam or that it would help that much more by getting it first then a cam. Now by getting a higher stall with everyday driving will that be a lot of strain on the car cuz thats my thing im not trying to do stuff that going to be a lot of strain you know what I mean?

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    ji run a circle d 3200 stall but plan to swap in a 3600 or 3800 later since the ms3 cam I have would be better with the larger stall but the car drivers like stock with the 3200 stall till you mash the pedal then you notice the difference. Most people run anywhere from 3200 to 3800 depending on the cam and my friends ss with the circle d 3600 drives normal unless you hit the gas. Cam choice depends on stall and the way you want the car to drive but I would definitely get long tubes and a exhaust before a cam.
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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanJM View Post
    ji run a circle d 3200 stall but plan to swap in a 3600 or 3800 later since the ms3 cam I have would be better with the larger stall but the car drivers like stock with the 3200 stall till you mash the pedal then you notice the difference. Most people run anywhere from 3200 to 3800 depending on the cam and my friends ss with the circle d 3600 drives normal unless you hit the gas. Cam choice depends on stall and the way you want the car to drive but I would definitely get long tubes and a exhaust before a cam.
    What he said lol. I don't have a stall in my car but in the future circle d will get my business or yank and I'll be going with a 3200-3600 stall. That range is good for a stock or cammed car without getting too crazy. As I said the stall will actually do more for your et than a cam. With a 3200 you looking at around .5 off your et and you wont even know its there a 3600 will drop .7 or more off your et and you will notice it probably for a couple days then it should feel stock. The stall will not hurt your car in any way as long as you use a good transmission cooler. The stock cooler is too small for the larger converter because it generates more heat. If I were you I'd give Dave at yank a call and tell him what your goals for the car are and what rear gears you have (3.23 should be stock for your car), or go over to circle d's website and fill out an ask chris form. Fti is another great company and you could also give Greg a call there and tell him whats going on, all are great companys and will build you a good reliable converter, dont be reeled in by cheap prices from ebay converters or other places as the converter are usually just reworked stock converters that will not hold the power of our cars.

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    ALL great info guys! I want to find a shop that does a lot of work on f-bodys and ls1's. Idk if you guys have heard of mike norris... his shop name mike norris motorsports but he use to be pretty close it was a lil drive but not bad untill he moved up north. So im trying to find a good ls1 shop local that know these car and could help me with a good setup

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    mike norris is a great guy and used to be stationed right around orlando iirc and now lives in indiana. are you are around orlando? if so I'm at ucf and would be happy to give you a hand if you need anything. I've done pretty much anything to these cars drivetrain wise lol. if you do live in fl I highly recommend fti converters for you because they are made right in deland so you could actually go there and talk to greg while your converter is being made.

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    My car has been to mike's while his shop was here was on the dyno n stuff. yeah hes a good guy. I also live in orlando where is this fti place. Im looking for a smart ls1 shop.
    Last edited by 01SsRacing; 08-19-2011 at 06:07 AM.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    greg is over in deland off of i4 its about 30 miles west of daytona(he may know a good ls shop). I dont know of any good ls shops up there because I'm from south fl and just go to school up there plus I do all my own stuff haha. But like I said if you need a hand doing headers stall or whatever lemme know

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01SsRacing View Post
    Been a Big help man! yeah I knew a stall would help but i didnt know you need that before a cam or that it would help that much more by getting it first then a cam. Now by getting a higher stall with everyday driving will that be a lot of strain on the car cuz thats my thing im not trying to do stuff that going to be a lot of strain you know what I mean?
    A stall is the best bang for your buck you can do to an automatic LS1. They are somewhat high strung anyway even with a stock camshaft. With just headers and exhaust, along with a good 3500ish converter and a tune, you'll have a solid mid 12 second Fbody without cracking the engine open. It will still drive daily and get respectable mileage.

    My SS vert was setup exactly this way, and got 26 mpg highway and 20 mpg city. Still had the stock 3.23's in it and went 12.76 at 107 mph on the original tires. Stickies would have dropped me into the 12.50's I believe.

    After all that's done, if mid 12's aren't enough for you,,,,at that point is when I would look at camshafts. Anything mild in the 230 @.050 range should put the car in the high 11's. A good set of ported cathedral port cylinder heads would make 11's even easier, and probably do it with a much milder camshaft as well.

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Do you go out to orlando speed world and race on test n tune nights its not far from ucf

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    No I haven most of my friends at ucf don't drive cars that merrit a track visit lol if u wanna meet there I'd be willing to go I'd like to see what my new ls6 swap could put up for numbers
    Last edited by redbird555; 08-19-2011 at 04:08 PM.

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    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    yeah im wait for it to cool off and not have to worry about rain everyday. But once I do go my friend is turboing his is300 my boss has a 03 zo6 that wants to go and my friend is putting together a s14

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    MS3 wouldn't be a bad choice either, there's plenty of options for you.

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