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Best set up for a new LS6

This is a discussion on Best set up for a new LS6 within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Okay, my question is directly related to my '99 M6 Z28. I have a functional SS hood, stock 3.42, and ...

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    Speak the truth jad628's Avatar
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    Best set up for a new LS6

    Okay, my question is directly related to my '99 M6 Z28. I have a functional SS hood, stock 3.42, and the garden variety add-ons. I average 18mpg city, 30 mpg highway. I want to maintain as much of that mileage as possible while running 93 pump gas.

    The current LS1 has 105K now, but no issues. I still have the stock clutch. Now my attention is to set it up for a fresh drivetrain.

    I've looked at other engines, but I keep coming back to the LS6. Having said that, I want my future set up based around a new LS6. I realize the warranty issues, but I know I want to put a cam, LT headers, and a good tune to the engine fairly soon upon installation (headers DURING installation). I want to maintain driveability, but would like a little lopey sound from the cam.

    While this is being done, I am going to replace the clutch and upgrade the slave cylinder, replacing u-joints, possibly the driveshaft, and going through the rear-end (keeping 3.42's). I currently have stock 16's, so my tires are 245. I would like to upgrade to 17's with 285 or 295 in the rear. I don't want to have to bend, cut, etc.

    Although I can't say for sure, I would assume this should put me around 450 hp at the crank. I want the clutch to match that power level.

    Having said all that, I really would appreciate as much feedback and advice from those who have went this route, good or bad. I realize there will be other engine preferences, but I'm fairly certain the LS6 is the route for me, so the suggestions should stay on that choice (although I'm sure there are many other good choices out there). This isn't happening soon, but I want to be sure of my choices before I make my move.

    Thanks!

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jad628 View Post
    Okay, my question is directly related to my '99 M6 Z28. I have a functional SS hood, stock 3.42, and the garden variety add-ons. I average 18mpg city, 30 mpg highway. I want to maintain as much of that mileage as possible while running 93 pump gas.

    The current LS1 has 105K now, but no issues. I still have the stock clutch. Now my attention is to set it up for a fresh drivetrain.

    I've looked at other engines, but I keep coming back to the LS6. Having said that, I want my future set up based around a new LS6. I realize the warranty issues, but I know I want to put a cam, LT headers, and a good tune to the engine fairly soon upon installation (headers DURING installation). I want to maintain driveability, but would like a little lopey sound from the cam.

    While this is being done, I am going to replace the clutch and upgrade the slave cylinder, replacing u-joints, possibly the driveshaft, and going through the rear-end (keeping 3.42's). I currently have stock 16's, so my tires are 245. I would like to upgrade to a 17's with 285 or 295 in the rear. I don't want to have to bend, cut, etc.

    Although I can't say for sure, I would assume this should put me around 450 hp at the crank. I want the clutch to match that power level.

    Having said all that, I really would appreciate as much feedback and advice from those who have went this route, good or bad. I realize there will be other engine preferences, but I'm fairly certain the LS6 is the route for me, so the suggestions should stay on that choice (although I'm sure there are many other good choices out there). This isn't happening soon, but I want to be sure of my choices before I make my move.

    Thanks!
    hey good to see you..havent seen you post lately.

    i cant help you on the cam..but for headers look into kooks, ARH or QTP headers ...no need to go 1 7/8s with your goals. For rims with 17s ..keep with the torq thrust line..also look into the new c5 deep dish coming here in the fall from oe wheels. they will be offered in 17x11 or 17x10.5 i cant remember..if you dont mind spending a little more look into the boyd smoothie series etc...you are looking at for a 17x11 and 17.x9.5 at 1400-1600.

    how is your suspension jad ? i can tell you..once you go rims you will most defenatly want to lower your car as the gap is more noticeable and uglier so you will want to look into some nice lowering springs..of course i suggest my set up of konis and stranos...on top of that a adj. panhard bar will be needed to run the rims (for fitment) and lower control arms are nice too for centering the rims more and for overall traction/especially with a lowered car.

    are you going to upgrade your rear or refresh your 10 bolt ? i know you know what is coming but i really heavily suggest you look into a 12 bolt or a 9" ...as with 450rwhp your 10 bolt will not last.
    Last edited by shady milkman; 05-04-2010 at 06:46 AM. Reason: removed info about ls2 as OP is set on the ls6.

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    Speak the truth jad628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    hey good to see you..havent seen you post lately.
    All good points (well, they were) BUT this LS1 will eventually need a rebuild. I'd rather sell it while still in running condition (a few folks have inquired about it) and completely change to another engine. The LS6 has most of everything I want and I have a good source for the purchase. I'm not really interested in stroking it, adding FI, or even giggle juice. I want a good, naturally aspired engine that I can start and drive 5 miles or 500 miles without a worry. I'm not looking for an all-out effort here. Just a good power increase with reliability. I've looked long and hard at Texas Speed engines, LS2 and LS3 efforts, but I still gravitate back to the LS6.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jad628 View Post
    All good points (well, they were) BUT this LS1 will eventually need a rebuild. I'd rather sell it while still in running condition (a few folks have inquired about it) and completely change to another engine. The LS6 has most of everything I want and I have a good source for the purchase. I'm not really interested in stroking it, adding FI, or even giggle juice. I want a good, naturally aspired engine that I can start and drive 5 miles or 500 miles without a worry. I'm not looking for an all-out effort here. Just a good power increase with reliability. I've looked long and hard at Texas Speed engines, LS2 and LS3 efforts, but I still gravitate back to the LS6.
    that is fair enough.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    We think alike. For the goals you want, (which is similar to mine) the LS6 crate motor is a great way to go.
    If you want a cam, I'd also do that before the motor goes in, just makes things much easier on you. Didn't catch what year your car is but an LS6 intake would be a nice addition as well since (depending on the crate engine) may or may not come with one.

    Even in stock form these crate motors are making 370-380 rwhp in Fbodies. With just a cam it could top 400 rwhp easily. It's the route I will be taking for my wifes car when the time comes. I'm like you, I want to be able to jump in and drive accross country when needed, which we do with her car quite often.
    With the stock LS1, an LS6 intake, a crane 210/218 .551 on a 112 lsa camshaft (close to LS6 specs) and headers (stock catback), still running stock 3.42's like you want to do, and it knocks down 30 mpg highway and 22 city, and has gone 12.90 at 111 mph on stock rubber driving it pretty easy. Still idles nearly stock. It has low 12 second potential if I wanted to get more serious with it, but like you, I'm not after a barn burner here. Just a nice driver.

    I should think a crate LS6 would be similar or slightly better with good drivability. Which is why I'll go that route too.

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    talk to Goeff at engine power system.they put a eps cam and spring only into a ls6 and made 430rwhp/415 rwtq.the car runs 11.2 with 3.23 and a A4.the cam was 222/226,under .600 lift.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post

    I should think a crate LS6 would be similar or slightly better with good drivability. Which is why I'll go that route too.
    drivablilty is for old people...i want to have a engine that makes me swear every time i drive at low rpm and bucks like a bull at the rodeo

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    Speak the truth jad628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    drivablilty is for old people...i want to have a engine that makes me swear every time i drive at low rpm and bucks like a bull at the rodeo
    And old people are those who were lucky enough to survive bad decisions.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jad628 View Post
    And old people are those who were lucky enough to survive bad decisions.
    100% truth in that statement

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    Speak the truth jad628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garygnu65 View Post
    talk to Goeff at engine power system.they put a eps cam and spring only into a ls6 and made 430rwhp/415 rwtq.the car runs 11.2 with 3.23 and a A4.the cam was 222/226,under .600 lift.
    11.2? I'd be happy to break 12 even! That's impressive, thanks for the input.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    drivablilty is for old people...i want to have a engine that makes me swear every time i drive at low rpm and bucks like a bull at the rodeo
    For the record I already have a car like that




    Our 4th gens have never been about that for us, and I suspect Jad628 feels along those lines as well. It really doesn't take much at all to make his goals when talking about LS1's and especially LS6's. He could drop his car into the 11's easily without much cam at all.
    My wifes car idles baby butt smooth, yet is capable of low 12's judging by the MPH, considering what little I've done, tuning it myself (which isn't perfect by the way) and driving it easy I'd say there is a bit left in it. It's honestly more than enough for her daily driver and the family long trip car.

    Maybe I am getting old But I guess it's all relative, because it's really just a matter of how fast do you want to go and how much money and drivability are you willing to sacrafice. I'd say he doesn't have to give up much if any at all to do what he is looking for.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garygnu65 View Post
    talk to Goeff at engine power system.they put a eps cam and spring only into a ls6 and made 430rwhp/415 rwtq.the car runs 11.2 with 3.23 and a A4.the cam was 222/226,under .600 lift.
    Does he have a website?? I google it and nothing comes up..

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    For the record I already have a car like that


    Click for full size
    yeah it looks like it

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    I have had a few LS6's on the dyno that break 400rwhp with just long tubes and a Fast intake.

    A crate LS6 won't come with the intake, so if you don't go Fast, you will need to get an LS6 intake if you don't have one already. For the cam, something tried and true like a 224/228 on a 114LSA will have a bit of sound, drive extremely easily and will make good power. I have had this grind in an LS6 with LTs, ORY, and LS6 intake on the dyno before. The setup made something like 426-428rwhp on my dyno and over 400 ft/lbs of tq (don't recall the exact number).

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    EPS , engpwrsys.com . they use a lobe that is a little mellower than comps lsl lobe.
    Last edited by Cutlass; 05-04-2010 at 09:07 PM. Reason: removed non-sponsor contact info

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    I have had a few LS6's on the dyno that break 400rwhp with just long tubes and a Fast intake.

    A crate LS6 won't come with the intake, so if you don't go Fast, you will need to get an LS6 intake if you don't have one already. For the cam, something tried and true like a 224/228 on a 114LSA will have a bit of sound, drive extremely easily and will make good power. I have had this grind in an LS6 with LTs, ORY, and LS6 intake on the dyno before. The setup made something like 426-428rwhp on my dyno and over 400 ft/lbs of tq (don't recall the exact number).


    Funny you mention that Compcam Steve. I've been seriously considering that one myself for my 02 auto with a 3400 stall. I was thinking it would be fairly easy to tune as well as very driveable.

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    Speak the truth jad628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    We think alike. For the goals you want, (which is similar to mine) the LS6 crate motor is a great way to go.
    If you want a cam, I'd also do that before the motor goes in, just makes things much easier on you. Didn't catch what year your car is but an LS6 intake would be a nice addition as well since (depending on the crate engine) may or may not come with one.

    Even in stock form these crate motors are making 370-380 rwhp in Fbodies. With just a cam it could top 400 rwhp easily. It's the route I will be taking for my wifes car when the time comes. I'm like you, I want to be able to jump in and drive accross country when needed, which we do with her car quite often.
    With the stock LS1, an LS6 intake, a crane 210/218 .551 on a 112 lsa camshaft (close to LS6 specs) and headers (stock catback), still running stock 3.42's like you want to do, and it knocks down 30 mpg highway and 22 city, and has gone 12.90 at 111 mph on stock rubber driving it pretty easy. Still idles nearly stock. It has low 12 second potential if I wanted to get more serious with it, but like you, I'm not after a barn burner here. Just a nice driver.

    I should think a crate LS6 would be similar or slightly better with good drivability. Which is why I'll go that route too.
    Exactly how I see it. Lots of potential in a LS6 while still remaining quite the sleeper.

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    Speak the truth jad628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    I have had a few LS6's on the dyno that break 400rwhp with just long tubes and a Fast intake.

    A crate LS6 won't come with the intake, so if you don't go Fast, you will need to get an LS6 intake if you don't have one already. For the cam, something tried and true like a 224/228 on a 114LSA will have a bit of sound, drive extremely easily and will make good power. I have had this grind in an LS6 with LTs, ORY, and LS6 intake on the dyno before. The setup made something like 426-428rwhp on my dyno and over 400 ft/lbs of tq (don't recall the exact number).

    I was plannig to stay with the LS6 manifold, but the main issue is the EGR. It's gotta be present for "visual" inspection. That's all I'm saying.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by jad628 View Post
    I was plannig to stay with the LS6 manifold, but the main issue is the EGR. It's gotta be present for "visual" inspection. That's all I'm saying.....
    not with an engine swap...

    ex. you drop an L82 out of an old vette in your car... no egr provisions and not needed...

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    Speak the truth jad628's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaz View Post
    not with an engine swap...

    ex. you drop an L82 out of an old vette in your car... no egr provisions and not needed...
    I wish. In NC the EGR has to be present even if it is eliminated from the computer. Visual inspection requirement based on the model year of the car. I'm not saying you can't find someone to pass it, but that's how it goes here. You can bolt a non-functioning EGR to a LS6 manifold with no actual inlet provision, tune it out of the program, and technically it passes. That's how I understand it.

    And now NC ties in your inspection with your tag renewal. You have to have the inspection done BEFORE you can renew the tag (computerized with DMV). If you don't pass inspection, you have to bust ass to get it corrected before the tag goes out. I just don't want any hassles.

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