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Bad cat question

This is a discussion on Bad cat question within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; My drivers side cat is throwing me a SES code. I don't know if you all remember but a long ...

  1. #1
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Bad cat question

    My drivers side cat is throwing me a SES code. I don't know if you all remember but a long time ago I posted something about it and someone sold me their cat to use, but after 2 straight days of using PB blaster I gave up trying to get my current one loose. The Rust is just awful and I'm terrified of breaking the screws causing me to spend money on a new header.

    My question is is there a way to delete the code for good so I can get past emissions without spending close to 1000 on something so useless?

  2. #2
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Yeah, just need to get into the tune and eliminate the rear 02's. I believe they need to be set to "no report" but that's just going from memory. Since AZ just hooks to the OBDII port and check for codes on the emissions test, the rear 02's won't be reporting and you'll be set

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    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    I deleted my codes with a handheld, drove around for 50 miles and passed.

    Just a few miles before getting back home, they came back. So, timing is everything

  4. #4
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Awesome! A simple handheld tuner will do the trick?

    I'm really bad with timing lol last emissions I tried one too many times and had to have a mechanic call them. That was fun

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    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    It worked for me. Took me a couple of times of clearing the codes just to see how many miles it took before the codes popped again. Once I had that figured out, I took a chance and it worked.

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    I just may be that "someone".


    You need to get out the fire wrench and heat those nuts up. Should come right off.

  7. #7
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    lol There's the guy I bought it from. I still haven't put it on Jeff for reasons involving my incompetence and the projects stupid difficulty from the rust

    I don't have a fire wrench nor do I know anybody who does. I almost feel like disabling the code would be my easiest way out of this.. firebird jones is it as simple as getting a tuner and setting "no report"?

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    If you can't rent a "Gas Ax" try a MAPP torch, they work pretty well.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

  9. #9
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrillakilla13 View Post
    lol There's the guy I bought it from. I still haven't put it on Jeff for reasons involving my incompetence and the projects stupid difficulty from the rust

    I don't have a fire wrench nor do I know anybody who does. I almost feel like disabling the code would be my easiest way out of this.. firebird jones is it as simple as getting a tuner and setting "no report"?
    Yep, need tuning software to do it though.

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    +1 A MAPP gas torch is a lot hotter than propane and you can still get a pretty fine flame with it so you don't cook everything under the car. You can buy them at most hardware stores and chain home superstores. I always heat everything up and then touch a candle to the threads. The melted wax will wick into them and eases removal as it also acts as a lubricant. Also helps to wire brush things off first to remove the scale.

  11. #11
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Do you know where I could find the software?

    I'll look into getting a MAPP gas torch. I saw the torch head is 50 bucks, and I assume I need to connect it to something that wont be cheap.. My biggest concern here is that I screw up, ruin the part of the header and have to get a new one altogether because the screw housing will be messed up or something. My buddy has a 95 z28 and he does some work, I'll see if I can get his help. But my concern remains, especially since he's still in high school. The wax idea sounds great, it'll work? PB blaster was a waste of money in my case.

  12. #12
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    You can do one of 3 things.

    Look up Nic D down in Phoenix, and have him tune the car for you.

    Look up Frost on the board here and do a mail order tune through him (the cheapest route to take, about $150) and he comes highly recommended.

    Or buy either HPtuner or EFI Live software and do it yourself. That's anywhere from $500-$600 depending on the package you choose, and if you aren't familiar with tuning it's a big learning curve.


    The way I see it, if you plan to stay with these cars for years to come, you are money ahead to buy your own software and learn. I've been into the 4th gens since the LT1's first came out so for me it was a no brainer to get the software and learn, and that's coming from a dinasour that still prefers to tune a carb They do much more than tune, they diagnose and log as well so it's a great tool to have.

    Up to you, but I think your easiest and cheapest way out is a Frost tune.

  13. #13
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Actually that sounds like a great idea! 150 and everything is taken care of through frost, at least so that I can pass emissions! Sorry everyone but just spending money on blow torches and spending time under the car (especially in this Arizona heat) just seems like a hell of a lot of work, especially for someone as inexperienced as me.

    Now, question is before I get that mail-order tune should I buy a ported throttlebody and SLP airlid? It'll give me a little extra boost

    I would love to learn the ins and outs of tuning, but 500+ is too much to spend on such a thing when I just wanna get my code to turn off really. Firebirdjones I plan on staying with LS for quite a while Had a 02 V6 camaro for 5 years and have had the WS6 for over 3 years, not planning on selling that thing until it hits the much higher mileage range. By that time maybe i'll be blessed enough to afford an 2006 Z06.

  14. #14
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    It would be best to make any changes you wish before the tune. Frost will want to know what's done to the car so he can set things up correctly.

    Either way, even a good tune from Frost on a stock car is worthwhile, and can see 15-25HP increase with tuning. It will run like a completely different car when you get it done.

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    +1 on Frost. We have a mail order tune on our car and it made a big difference.

  16. #16
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    that makes me happy than Ported TB and custom airlid it is, followed by the mail in tune. thanks a ton for your help guys.

    Will a tune help with my 100mph governor, and that clunk i get from the rear when I take off fast?

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    It'll help with everything but the clunk.

  18. #18
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    Ok ok, first transmission shop THAN air flow parts and tune :/ something in my engine is whining pretty loudly as of the other day too. Probably my belt. Sigh
    2014 Camaro: Check. 2SS: Check. 1LE: Check. 6 Speed manual? CHECK

  19. #19
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    Check your P/S reservoir for signs of engine coolant cross contamination. The P/S cooler in the upper hose is a known culprit. I removed mine and installed a small tube and fin cooler down on the crossmember.

  20. #20
    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    I'll check it in a bit. What am I looking for exactly in regards to the fluid? I don't know what the signs will be when coolant mixes with PS fluid.

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