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!!Anyone who has changed a rack and pinion HELP ASAP!!

This is a discussion on !!Anyone who has changed a rack and pinion HELP ASAP!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; well i have the tie-rod ends un-done as well as the fittings and and one of the main bolts out. ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member cdorch's Avatar
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    !!Anyone who has changed a rack and pinion HELP ASAP!!

    well i have the tie-rod ends un-done as well as the fittings and and one of the main bolts out. This other main bolt on the crossmember (drivers side) will not come out...it goes in from the top and when you pull up (after the nut is taken off) to take it out, it hits the bottom of the oil pan and still has a full inch to go. The only possibilities i see are jacking up the engine or completely cutting up my old rack to get it out both of which i dont want to do if i dont have to and neither are definite solutions. Is there some trick im missing?

    p.s. the bolt can not be cut because its in an impossible spot and its hardened

    Thanks guys

  2. #2
    Junior Member cdorch's Avatar
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    ...and i also checked my Haynes manual...simply says remove nuts and bolts for that step and in the picture they have the engine already out of the car lol

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    Senior Member KyleLs1's Avatar
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    can you lower the cross member? Might give you the clearance you need

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    Junior Member cdorch's Avatar
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    is the engine mounted on the crossmember though?

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    I had this same problem and actually posted this same thread about a year ago. I had to remove the alternator, take out the driver side motor mount bolt and lift the engine about 4 to 5 inches... sucks, but when you reinstall the rack and pinion be sure to put the mounting bolt upside down to make it easier, it should work just the same... too bad in the manual it says (motor removed for clarity) Those slap dicks just threw together a book as fast as they could and removed the engine to work on it not everyone can just pull the motor when something goes wrong. Someone needs to make a repair manual that actually helps you repair the car just as a normal person would not a shop with a lift and unlimited tools. just my .02 hope this helps you out.

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    Would it not make sence and save a lot of work instead of lifting the engine up and when done putting the bolt in upside down why not just cut the head of the bolt off and drop the bolt out the bottom then replace the bolt upside down like ivbroham1 suggested?

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    Junior Member cdorch's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot for the help thats exactly what i was thinking i would have to do just wanted to make sure there were no shortcuts i was missing...a rack shouldnt be this involved...the bolts will DEF be put back in upside down
    Last edited by cdorch; 12-23-2007 at 09:47 PM.

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    Junior Member cdorch's Avatar
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    oh and wnmech- have you personally done this? because thats the first thing i wanted to do but the bolt is in a near impossible spot to cut and its also hardened steel. Unfortunately it doesnt seem to be an option but if you have done it let me know. ill probably be jacking the motor tomorrow

  9. #9
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I've seen where people do it both ways. If you do decide to cut the bolt out be careful not to damage the oil pan. You should be able to cut it out though. I cut through a trailer hitch with a hacksaw one time. Fun...no.....effective.....yes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cdorch View Post
    oh and wnmech- have you personally done this? because thats the first thing i wanted to do but the bolt is in a near impossible spot to cut and its also hardened steel. Unfortunately it doesnt seem to be an option but if you have done it let me know. ill probably be jacking the motor tomorrow
    No I have not yet had the pleasure of changing mine I was just reading the post about putting the bolt in thru the bottom and I just thought maybe you could use a dye grinder and cut off the bolt.

  11. #11
    Madeche Vision...soon The Scientist's Avatar
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    Hey guys, glad to find this thread. I am planning to replace my rack and could use any advice you have. Could anyone give me a descent write-up. I see there is a problem with the motor in and I am not about to pull the motor for this. How do you handle the power steering fluid? Does the system need to be bleed like a brake system? Is it more complicated than unbolt/disconnect the old one and replace with a new one? Thanks guys for any help you give me.

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scientist View Post
    Hey guys, glad to find this thread. I am planning to replace my rack and could use any advice you have. Could anyone give me a descent write-up. I see there is a problem with the motor in and I am not about to pull the motor for this. How do you handle the power steering fluid? Does the system need to be bleed like a brake system? Is it more complicated than unbolt/disconnect the old one and replace with a new one? Thanks guys for any help you give me.
    It's overall not that hard as long as you know what you're doing. I'd say anyone with little mechanical skills could do this swap. 2 jack stands or ramps is necessary. Yes, you have to bleed your ps fluid, and it's really hard and akward trying to fit a dremal or anything in there to cut the bolt on the drivers side. Trust me just take the extra 10-15 minutes and jack the motor up. Installing it is pretty self explanitory, just make sure you put that bolt in upside down so if you ever have to get back under there jacking the motor up won't be necessary. You can try your best to get alignment back to normal, but I suggest taking it to a shop to get aligned. That's about all I can think of for now. I'll go over what I had to do myself later and post anything else that might help that comes across my mind.

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    Madeche Vision...soon The Scientist's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. The process sounds like what I figured it would be.
    Any suggestions on where to get a rack, rebuilt works for me if there is a good difference in price.

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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scientist View Post
    Thanks for the info. The process sounds like what I figured it would be.
    Any suggestions on where to get a rack, rebuilt works for me if there is a good difference in price.
    Try a yard for a good used one.

    New.....http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/

    Or.....http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214152

    Both are sponsors

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    Madeche Vision...soon The Scientist's Avatar
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    After hearing how hard it is to remove with the engine in, I don't think I am going to a yard. Plus you never know about front end damage. I have checked the other two sites and I see it as a "short rack". Guess that is the right part. Thanks.

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    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scientist View Post
    After hearing how hard it is to remove with the engine in, I don't think I am going to a yard. Plus you never know about front end damage. I have checked the other two sites and I see it as a "short rack". Guess that is the right part. Thanks.
    I understand.....not all yards are a U-Pull type though.
    Some will have parts in house like a parts store.
    They also want to sell good parts, not something that's gonna bite them in the ass.
    Check around by phone & see.

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    Member Sunset T/A's Avatar
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    I am looking at the GM Service Manual. The bolts go thru the mounting brackets from the TOP with nuts on the BOTTOM of the rack with rubber bushings. Once the nuts are removed from the BOTTOM, the rack should come off. The only other thing stopping it are the steering shaft from above, or the rubber bushings, or the fluid lines. It looks like the bolts just stay in the bracket and not even get removed. I hope this info helps. After this job is done, I recommend that you keep an eye on Ebay, and try to pick up a complete set of GM Service Manuals, usually $60-$80. They are worth their weight in GOLD.

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    trust me sunsetta, the bolt has to come out. the oil pan is definetly in the way of it coming straight out from the top. the service manuals are great refrence, but sometimes not acurate enough. As for where to find one any auto parts store should be fine, DO NOT BUY FROM A JUNKYARD!!! unless you have a friend that works there or there is absolutely no damage to the front end of the car. I ended up getting mine from autozone, and have no complaints. Thanks sunsetta for the post though, the service manuals are a lot of help, more than most people think.

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    Member mikeaford's Avatar
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    ok go get a dremel and about 18 rough course sanding disk and go to town sanding the top of the bolt off till it drops trough to the bottom - hard to damage the oil pan without noticing also helpful remove the two metal hoses on your old rack but dont disconect them from the other side other wise if you move your rack you will violently shoot power steering fluid all over the garage wall um don't ask me how I know this... Enjoy took about 2 hours to sand off but lot less work than jacking the motor out - also I removed the one nut from the oil pan to try and get more clearance forget trying to sand it and take it out of the top HAS to go through to the bottom. Don't burn your dremmel up in the process.. ENJOY it's a fricking pain slaps to the engineer who did this!

  20. #20
    Member 346ci's Avatar
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    Here's how GM says to do it out of SI (service information)


    Steering Gear Replacement (5.7L VIN K)
    Removal Procedure
    Remove the air intake resonator.
    Remove the serpentine belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 5.7L.
    Support the engine with a hydraulic jack.
    Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
    Remove the tires and wheels. Refer to Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels.



    Place a drain pan under the steering gear (5).
    Disconnect the steering gear outer tie rods.
    Remove the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement in Engine Electrical.
    Remove the left-side engine mount through bolt.
    Lower the vehicle.
    Raise the engine with the hydraulic jack.
    Disconnect the following hoses from the steering gear (5):
    The power steering gear inlet hose

    The power steering gear outlet hose

    Remove the steering gear flexible coupling from the steering gear (5). Refer to Steering Shaft Coupling Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column.
    Remove the nuts (4) and bolts/screws (1).
    Remove the steering gear (5).
    Installation Procedure




    Position the steering gear (5) to the crossmember (2).
    Adjust the steering gear (5).
    Ensure that the steering aligns as straight as possible with the steering gear coupling shaft.

    Hand start the bolts/screws (1) and nuts (4).
    Position the back-up wrench to the nuts (4).
    Tighten
    Tighten the bolt/screws to 85 Nm (63 lb ft).

    Install the steering gear flexible coupling to the steering gear. Refer to Steering Shaft Coupling Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column.
    Tighten
    Tighten the bolts/screws to 47 Nm (35 lb ft).

    Connect the following hoses to the steering gear (5).
    The power steering gear inlet hose

    The power steering gear outlet hose

    Lower the vehicle. Allow the vehicle to stay slightly above the ground while the tires and wheels are not installed.
    Lower the engine with the hydraulic jack.
    Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
    Install the left side engine mount through-bolt.
    Install the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement in Engine Electrical.
    Connect the steering gear outer tie rods to the steering knuckles.
    Install the tire and wheels. Refer to Wheel Installation in Tires and Wheels.
    Lower the vehicle.
    Remove the hydraulic jack supporting the engine.
    Install the serpentine belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical -- 5.7L.
    Install the air intake resonator.
    Refill and bleed the power steering system. Refer to Power Steering System Bleeding in Power Steering System.

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