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Anyone have any Mazda knowledge?

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    Anyone have any Mazda knowledge?

    My wife’s 2007 Mazda CX-7 is having an issue with both key fobs not locking the/ unlocking or allowing the horn panic button to operate. Both key fobs have new batteries in them. When I open the driver’s door a key in ignition sound chimes without the key in the ignition (this only happens with the driver’s door). I have already reset the ECM by disconnecting the battery and hitting the brake and waiting ½ hour. The red dash key ignition immobilize light flashes on the dash until I put the key in the ignition and the car will start normally. I have replaced ignition switch and returned it to AutoZone because that did not solve the problem. I have had ZERO luck searching the Mazda forums trying to solve this problem.
    THanks.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    have you programmed the key fobs?? Probably have to do them all at the same time too.

    2007 Mazda CX-7 - Free Keyless Remote Fob Entry programming instructions, procedures for all automotive vehicles

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    I did find that set of instructions, the problem is the car won’t let me lock and unlock the door with the door open. The car thinks a key is in the ignition and is making the key in ignition noise (w/o the key in the ignition), also when the key is in the ignition it will not let you lock the door while the door is open (I guess that keeps you from locking the keys in the car).

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    does it at anytime think the key isn't in the ignition? If not it almost sounds like a module issue. I'm not sure if the mazda's use the bcm for that like the gm's use or not. Have you tried opening the door and putting the key in, turning to run then back off, and then trying to program?

    Did this just start out of the blue or did you have a fob battery die?

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    It just started yesterday while my wife was running errands. I just tried what you suggested and it did not work. I'm afraid it could be the ignition cylinder where the key is inserted; I was quoted nearly a grand for a new cylinder and new keys. Someone also told me it could be a door switch or a door lock acuator but I the actuators work with the door closed and the interior lights turn on and off with the door switch. I don't know how to trouble shoot those further or how to check if the ignition cylinder is broken to make the car think that a key is in it but will still start.

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    Have you tried pulling the ecm fuse and letting it sit a few minutes? Another thing you might try just for shits and giggles is to lube your key and insert/remove it a few times. Maybe some junk is in the cylinder making it think the key is still in there. That end would almost have to be mechanical I would think because I bet that's an RF fob.

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    I did the ECM reset procedure (disconnect the battery and hit the lights and brake pedal and wait ½ hour) I also blew out the cylinder with my air compressor. ... I also just lubed the key and turn it on and off a few times... still not working.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    If you do decide to try lubing that cylinder I would probably use an electrical cleaner on it or a shot of silicone spray. I might use wd40 but sparingly.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I'm sure there's an ecm fuse on it somewhere though. I would still pull that and let it sit a few minutes. In your first post you said you tried replacing the cylinder and then later you said you thought that might be what it is? I'm a little confused by that....what exactly did you replace and then return?

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    let's take a step back for just a second. I know some car companies ( dodge for sure) require that you have at least 1 working key in order to program any other keys. Is mazda like that? Is there a chance that your second key was dead and when this key died it left you with both keys not working? I'm not even sure if a dead battery resets the fob.....I just remember helping my buddy out with his dodge truck and with those at least 1 key has to work or it's a trip to the dealership.

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I'm sure there's an ecm fuse on it somewhere though. I would still pull that and let it sit a few minutes. In your first post you said you tried replacing the cylinder and then later you said you thought that might be what it is? I'm a little confused by that....what exactly did you replace and then return?
    I bought and returned the ignition switch... 2007-2011 Mazda CX7 Ignition Switch - Steering - OES Genuine 07-11 CX7 Ignition Switch - 18995-01007629 - PartsGeek the electrical portion

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    let's take a step back for just a second. I know some car companies ( dodge for sure) require that you have at least 1 working key in order to program any other keys. Is mazda like that? Is there a chance that your second key was dead and when this key died it left you with both keys not working? I'm not even sure if a dead battery resets the fob.....I just remember helping my buddy out with his dodge truck and with those at least 1 key has to work or it's a trip to the dealership.
    I have replaced the batteried in the fob before on this car with no problems.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Trying to remember my days at a Mazda dealership. I think there is a TSB regarding the ECM losing its programming/sync with the fobs. I cannot be sure. Do you have the switchblade key fob or the SmartKey fob that looks like a credit card? I think there is also a module that bolts to the opposite side of the lock cylinder that reads the key and fob and deactivates the anti-theft system and allows the vehicle to start. From what you have described, it sounds like the module that bolts to the column opposite the lock cylinder.

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    It's the switchblade. We are bringing the car to a locksmith this morning. I think we’ve narrowed the problem to the mechanical portion of the ignition switch. We think the key fobs are a symptom and not the problem…. Something in the ignition is telling the car a key is in it. I will let you know.

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    THe locksmith fixed it. A spring was stuck inside the mechanical portion of the ignition switch. It was a $50.00 fix.

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    cool....glad yo got it figured out and in the grand scheme of things that's a pretty cheap fix.

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    Junior Member psycho_puppies's Avatar
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    I was extremely happy with the $50.00 bill. The dealer would have been a disaster for my wallet. Thank you for all your input, Orion.
    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    cool....glad yo got it figured out and in the grand scheme of things that's a pretty cheap fix.

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