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Thread: Anyone had this problem?
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07-20-2011, 05:13 PM #1
Anyone had this problem?
I get back from the beach and go to crank my car after it sitting for a week and nothing works. Alarm won't even unlock the doors. I got the battery 2 months ago from AAA and it's an Interstate battery. I had to leave the jumper cables on for 20 minutes before it cranked and we tested the altinator and it was good also. Then today I go without driving it for 4 days and it does it again. If a new battery doesn't fix it what could it be besides a starter? I had a Delco batery and it handled all my speakers and subs so I have no clue. I have a factory alarm as well.
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07-20-2011, 05:45 PM #2
if the battery keeps dying then there is something consuming power. is the radio turning off? are the interior lights turning off? is the glove compartment light turning off when its closed? I had that problem before. the base of the switch broke off and the glove compartment will stay on all the time but I couldnt see it.
1998 TA 130k A4, LS6 intake, TunedByFrost, Airlid, AIR and EGR delete, Borla exhaust, front Eibach lowering springs, LS6 valley cover, UMI TQ arm, UMI LCA's, UMI panhard bar, Poly engine mounts, BMR relocation brackets, Blistein HD shocks and struts, Oil catch can, Autotrix window fix.
Now I have an 2001 F150 5.4L
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07-20-2011, 06:01 PM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
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- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
Yep, something is drawing power from the battery and killing it. Might be some of that aftermarket stereo equipment.
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07-20-2011, 06:24 PM #4
I just chucked the Interstate that came with our car. Had to keep a trickle charger on it all the time and I do not have any power drains that I am aware of. After 3 weeks in the trailer it barely started the car and then would not take a charge off either of my chargers.
Easy test for a draw is to use either an amp meter or a test light. With the engine off, disconnect your negative battery cable and then connect the leads on the meter or test light to the negative terminal and the negative cable. You will see the draw on the meter or by how brightly the test light is lit. Obviously, there is always some level of draw on the battery, but it should be fairly low -- Cutlass might be able to give an acceptable range. If your draw is excessive, start pulling and replacing fuses one-by-one until the draw drops or light dims considerably. Whatever circuit that is should be the culprit. As stated, aftermarket alarm and stereo equipment are always prime suspects and the alternator itself can be a draw.
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07-20-2011, 06:28 PM #5
I have had problems with and still do have problems with my ignition. It is loose and if you don't pull the down steering wheel while you turn it off, then it is still in the run position. Couple of hours, dead battery. Just throwing it out there. Most likely, your battery is on its last legs. Or you have a drain.
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07-20-2011, 07:10 PM #6
even if new, it could be a faulty battery,... might be good idea to stop by auto parts store and have them check the battery, ...if it's faulty, and assuming there's an initial warranty period, might get you one that works!
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07-20-2011, 07:12 PM #7
I just put a new battery in a few hours ago and it cranked right up. I checked the voltage and it read 3.4 volts and the car needs around 7 to start. I did test the old one and there were no substancial draws on the old battery. I have a seperate battery for my stereo equiptment for that reason. The only thing I could think of was the stock alarm. We'll see how long this battery lasts.
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07-20-2011, 07:13 PM #8
Well AAA put the new one in and from what he said the battery was a dud so he replaced it with another Delco battery.
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07-20-2011, 07:28 PM #9
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07-21-2011, 11:49 AM #10
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07-21-2011, 04:14 PM #11
ah okay. Is it better with the new one?
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07-21-2011, 05:46 PM #12
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
less then 25 milliamps of draw is acceptable usually. Thats .025 amps if your meter doesn't do the conversion for you. most cars will be much less than that...like 8-10 miliamps
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07-21-2011, 05:48 PM #13
^^ Good to know. I never knew what the acceptable range was.
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07-21-2011, 05:52 PM #14
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
If you wanna get really nerdy and technical, there is a formula for acceptable draw based on the specs of the battery. Yep, believe it or not acceptable draw is based on the battery, not the car. And every battery has its acceptable draw limit.
But who's has time for that crap . 25mA is good standard number everyone uses.
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07-21-2011, 07:21 PM #15
I wouldnt use a test light to check draw because you have no idea what the current draw is. I does not take much to light one up. Stick with a Meter.
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07-22-2011, 04:38 AM #16
^^ Agree, but not everyone has an amp meter in their toy box. A test light is a viable alternative to locate an offending circuit.
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07-22-2011, 04:44 AM #17
It could be a bad cell in the new battery.
SteveC
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07-22-2011, 07:34 AM #18
OP,
hope the new battery works for ya... if you regulary leave your car sitting for long periods of time, might want to think about hooking it up to a trickle charger - that should fight any parasitic drains..
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07-22-2011, 09:00 AM #19
I've had an Interstate for 3 years now and my Camaro sits for long periods of time with no problems Hope you get it all figured out though.
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07-22-2011, 12:54 PM #20
AAA came out and replaced it. Turns out when they replaced it the first time the guy gave me a USED battery. I guess he got them mixed up since he was in a big hurry and stripped the nuts in the process. I had to go out and buy a new set cause he torqued them to much. The old battery was 4 years old according to the factory sticker number. Fail on their part.
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