Another Intake Question

[2ManySS's]

I didn't want to ask in another post and be rude, so I started a new one and if its wrong, forgive me.

Now, been looking at the intake lids, but spending cash on something that the stock one just needs a minor improvement I just can't seem to find.

Does anyone just make a new rubber adapter to remove the bellows section of the intake so it's just like the lids??? Or had anyone found a good rubber coupler from a hardware store that will fit tightly the ovate end and has the right size MAF end.

[pajeff02]

Ouch! You must be thinking of another LS1 site. We're pretty friendly around here.

Did your stock bellows get damaged? If so I have the one from our car in a box somewhere. If you are simply looking to replace it with a smooth one, I am not sure of a piece that fits the oval opening. Most guys run Fernco couplers, but they tend to be too stiff and the lid does not seal properly to the air box imo.

[2ManySS's]

I didn't say you weren't friendly, just didn't want to jump in on someone's else's post.

No nothing is damaged, shes like new.
Just saw those SLP type lids and their gains and just thought why a whole new lid when a new coupler between the intake and MAF is all thats needed.

[pajeff02]

I didn't say you weren't friendly, just didn't want to jump in on someone's else's post.

No nothing is damaged, shes like new.
Just saw those SLP type lids and their gains and just thought why a whole new lid when a new coupler between the intake and MAF is all thats needed.

Actually, if you compare the stock and aftermarket lids you will see that there is a marked difference. The stock lid has baffling and is quite restrictive compared to an aftermarket piece. Also, the helmholtz resonator -- big plastic thing behind the air lid, does not really help the situation.

[2ManySS's]

I haven't had the lid off so I didn't know there was a difference between the 2.
They look very much to be the same other than some I've seen are a bit higher.
Yeah those rear tanks are just pure ugly and that was my main point of getting rid of.
This car will be collected and driven very little in the way of miles each year so I want to remain close to stock as possible.
The only things I want to change at this point is fuel rail covers that don't say Corvette on them, cleaning up the intake, replacing the mashed y-pipe from the factory and a strut bar.

[2ManySS's]

Oh while I'm at it, I want to lose the EGR system or restrict its flow.
Nasty rotten gum up everything pile of poop.
Who does flashing or how hard is it to do it yourself?

[pajeff02]

Check out Frost (site sponsor). He does a great job with mail order tunes. That is what I run on our car as do a lot of the members on the site. Link: Tuned by Frost

[SMWS6TA]

I haven't had the lid off so I didn't know there was a difference between the 2.
They look very much to be the same other than some I've seen are a bit higher.
Yeah those rear tanks are just pure ugly and that was my main point of getting rid of.
This car will be collected and driven very little in the way of miles each year so I want to remain close to stock as possible.
The only things I want to change at this point is fuel rail covers that don't say Corvette on them, cleaning up the intake, replacing the mashed y-pipe from the factory and a strut bar.

Oh while I'm at it, I want to lose the EGR system or restrict its flow.
Nasty rotten gum up everything pile of poop.
Who does flashing or how hard is it to do it yourself?

Careful, once the mod bug bites it's hard to stop And it always starts off with removing the stock airlid/headers/ORY/muffler.

Does your FRC say Corvette or they don't and you want them to? Soory if I'm confused. If the previous, then you can get them filled in, sanded and primed and painted by any good body shop or you can do it yourself if you're able to or want to take up the challenge.


There are quite a few items that need fixing: passenger window, pcv and SFC's are just a few.

Welcome to the site

[2ManySS's]

Careful, once the mod bug bites it's hard to stop And it always starts off with removing the stock airlid/headers/ORY/muffler.

Does your FRC say Corvette or they don't and you want them to? Soory if I'm confused. If the previous, then you can get them filled in, sanded and primed and painted by any good body shop or you can do it yourself if you're able to or want to take up the challenge.


There are quite a few items that need fixing: passenger window, pcv and SFC's are just a few.

Welcome to the site

Not to worried about the bug biting.
Its going to remain as close to stock as possible, just some fine tuning.
I have another car for the mod bug which has hit that one hard.

I want fuel rail covers and the only ones I've seen say Vette or GTO.
So if by what you say I can redo them so they say nothing, cool.

Now pass window??
PCV mod?
SFC???

[SMWS6TA]

Not to worried about the bug biting.
Its going to remain as close to stock as possible, just some fine tuning.
I have another car for the mod bug which has hit that one hard.

I want fuel rail covers and the only ones I've seen say Vette or GTO.
So if by what you say I can redo them so they say nothing, cool.

Now pass window??
PCV mod?
SFC???

I just got some from ebay for $50 yesterday. I'll need to fill in the corevette and get them painted, but there are deals out there.

Passenger window fix - GM did a piss poor wiring job on this. They ran the led wire from the drivers switch to the passenger. By the time the charge reaches the passenger switch it is low in volts and over time weakens the motor and cause it to die. Notice your passenger window rolls up slower then the drivers? Autotrix (Sponsor) sells a fix for $35. Simple to do and only takes about an hour.

SFC - Sub Frame Connectors. Our cars flex like you won't believe. This is one suspension mod that always get's recommend. 3 points are better, but 2 points work too, they come in bolt in or weld in.

PCV - This has become a issue with me. GM again used some really crappy design on our engines. If you trace the pcv from the drivers rear valve cover it will go behind the intake where it splits into two lines. One goes to the rear passenger valve cover, the other continues along the passenger side of the intake where it merges into the pcv. It then continues towards the front of the intake where it connects to the TB.

Over time and many heat cycles the cheap ass rubber cracks and splits, thus causing vacuum and oil leaks at the pcv and the split, both are the most common areas.

The LS6 VCT Mod - is where you get the LS6 Valley Cover tray and switch it out the stock one with it. If your lucky you will have a 01-02 LS6 block and you will not have to do a little notching on the inside of the tray. It really isn't to hard to do, as long as you follow the instructions and take your time. This mod works best with a catch can. A catch can filters the oil/air mixture coming from the blowby off the pcv. It has a steel wool filter that separates the oil form the air and lets the air continue to the TB.

There are several threads in the General area and a couple of sticky's about the subject. I as well as many others here have done it so we can help if your interested.

The last one may be more then you are willing to do. There is a pcv quick fix in the sticky's but for best solution you find the LS6 VCT Mod is it.

I can post pics if interested.

[2ManySS's]

I knew the cars would flex hence the strut brace and I was all ready looking at the SFC's, so now its pushed up further.

Didn't find much on the power window other than replacing the motor, was that it???

PCV, will wait on and maybe just redo whats there with better lines. I was kind of planing doing most of the lines with braiding and you say you can add a catch can??

Oh and THANK YOU very much for offering this info straight up without waiting til I ran into it.
Never and I'll say again Neverr in 12 years of forum attending has anyone from what I've seen offer up info if such to a fresh newbie without the question being asked.

[pajeff02]

Our cars need the subframe connectors much more than the STB. For the most part, unless you are road racing, the STB is more of an appearance mod than anything else.

As you may have noticed, SMWS6TA is a member of our site's Tech Team. We are fortunate in that our members tend to be very helpful and a lot of times go above and beyond in answering questions. Never hesitate to post up a question, or ask for more information if there is something you do not understand.

[SMWS6TA]

I knew the cars would flex hence the strut brace and I was all ready looking at the SFC's, so now its pushed up further.

Didn't find much on the power window other than replacing the motor, was that it???

PCV, will wait on and maybe just redo whats there with better lines. I was kind of planing doing most of the lines with braiding and you say you can add a catch can??

Oh and THANK YOU very much for offering this info straight up without waiting til I ran into it.
Never and I'll say again Neverr in 12 years of forum attending has anyone from what I've seen offer up info if such to a fresh newbie without the question being asked.

The STB, like Jeff stated, will not help with body flex. SFC's will. If you look at the quarter panel above the rear wheels, look for a wrinkle or a small crease that is from the body flexing. Even under stock power the body can flex.

Yes, that is what is killing your passenger motor. I and I mean it is still killing it. If you don't do that fix you will need to replace the motor again in a yr or 2. For a permanent fix under $40. I would highly recommend it.

PCV/Catch Can - after I installed the catch can I drained this much oil out of it.




Here is what the LS6 VCT mod and Catch Can look like when done:






And no problem, one of the many reasons I love this site is because of the willingness of everyone on here to help.

[2ManySS's]

Thank you much, but still confused a bit.
The pass window deal is not a mod, rewire etc, just a replacement of the motor itself and once done using a non GM part its fixed??

[SMWS6TA]

http://www.autotrix.net/Product-Pass...Fix-Kit_1.aspx

click this link, there is a video that will explain it fully.

[2ManySS's]

http://www.autotrix.net/Product-Pass...Fix-Kit_1.aspx

click this link, there is a video that will explain it fully.

I just read it over and replacing the unit is all it said to me.
Did the Monte and if they say this is easier, its a piece of cake for when it begins to show problems.

Forgive me, I read the page on this forum and it said change the motor.
The link is a kit to rewire it for a constant voltage, COOL!


Now next.

UMI, I've met these guys at Carlisle and bought stuff for the Monte from them has simple connectors that bolt front to rear and no cross brace.
Since I plan on NOT beating the snot on it, would these be good enough.

[SMWS6TA]

I just read it over and replacing the unit is all it said to me.
Did the Monte and if they say this is easier, its a piece of cake for when it begins to show problems.

Forgive me, I read the page on this forum and it said change the motor.
The link is a kit to rewire it for a constant voltage, COOL!


Now next.

UMI, I've met these guys at Carlisle and bought stuff for the Monte from them has simple connectors that bolt front to rear and no cross brace.
Since I plan on NOT beating the snot on it, would these be good enough.

If you just change your motor then your good there, just need the wire fix.


UMI - are you talking about SFC's? From what you described above it sounds like 2 point. Yes both are good (2point/3point), it's just 3 points really beef up the suspension.

[2ManySS's]

Yes, its just a 2 point SFC that bolts the front section to the rear like we did years ago to unibody Maro's and Nova's.


Thanks for all the ideas and warnings.

[SMWS6TA]

the nice thing about the bolt ins are you can weld in later if you want to make it permanent.

[pajeff02]

You mentioned Carlisle -- are you going to the GM Nats this weekend?