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Air leak around intake?

This is a discussion on Air leak around intake? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; dont worry about the tb on a ls6..worry about a tb when you move over to a fast 92 or ...

  1. #21
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    blacker than wesleysnipes
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    dont worry about the tb on a ls6..worry about a tb when you move over to a fast 92 or 102mm lsxr intake

  2. #22
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    What he said above; Also on the LS6 intake I wouldn't worry about replacing the TB UNLESS you have the extra dough just lying around. I'm using my stock TB and it runs very strong. I mean, one could go to a BBK 80mm, BUT will that $350 be worth MAYBE 2-5 horsepower???? No, IMO.......Add on another $30-$40 to that 2-5hp and get a great DD cam, like a 228R.....Oh there's 50+(to the crank) useable horsepower!!!!!
    and BBK's quality is questionable for there LS1 stuff. I've heard quite a few complaints about their TBs and Intakes for the LS1.

  3. #23
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    Well... I've developed myself a nice build list out of all this:

    Projects on tap for a good 3 days of tear down/rebuild:

    ls6 intake
    ls6 valley cover
    free ram air (really, prep for SLP CAI as soon as I mod it for a closing baffle)
    plugs & wires
    paint valve covers (easily +5 HP there!! this is what I see taking up the majority of time, mostly for cleaning (covers and engine) and painting.)

    Parts on hand:

    ls6 manifold w/ coolant bypass
    ls6 valley cover
    PCV hose (for valley cover)
    knock sensor (x2)
    KS pigtail (x2)
    OPSU
    new valve cover bolts
    valve cover gasket
    intake manifold gasket
    air tube gaskets (those little metal ones)
    NGK TR55 plugs
    MSD 8.5 wires

    ~general supplies (dielectric grease, paint, degreaser, silicone, gasket tack, etc...) ~

    Now the question is, what gets done first, fix the body damage from the wreck, or tear apart the engine... Idle has been getting worse, so engine may quickly take priority!

    Anyone see any supplies that may be missing out of that list?

  4. #24
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    unless i bought the last 1.........WS6 store has KS harnesses
    Last edited by sjsingle1; 10-18-2010 at 09:24 PM.

  5. #25
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    why do you need a valvecover gasket and bolts ?

  6. #26
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    I noticed some cracks on the valve cover bolt grommets, and apparently the only way to replace the grommets is to replace the whole bolt.

    Valve cover gasket is simply getting changed because I'm assuming this will be the first time in 108,000 miles that the covers have been pulled. New gasket won't kill me.

    Seeing as this is my only car right now, I'd rather have an inexpensive gasket on hand before I start rather than risk finding something bad/causing something bad and finding a ride to the store. (Harley is also out of commission for electrical issues.)

  7. #27
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    You ask what to do first, do the painting first. It takes the most time due to prep and dry times.

    When you go to put back the Intake Manifold back on remember those torque specs are in INCH LBS

    You will need a torque wrench that is in the range of 30 - 100 INCH LBS. they are harder to find then you think. I had to break down and get one from Sears.

    You may already have these but in case you don't.

    Intake Swap
    http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5


    LS6 Valley Cover
    http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18

  8. #28
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    ls6 manifold showed up today, unpacked it and now I have a couple questions:

    There is no provision on the ls6 for the EGR. I did read the article on ls1howto posted above, and they say to put a block off plate on the header.

    I'm going to need a bit of clarification from this pic:


    The orange highlighted tube is the egr tube from the intake. I assume the blue arrow is pointing at the egr assembly? And the yellow highlighted tube is the line going to the header that I need to block off at the green arrow?

    Do I just remove the whole assembly and toss it in the "old" pile?

    Do I need to fabricate a block off plate, or can I find something off the shelf (and if so, where?)

    Any special treatment to the wiring connectors that will now just be hanging? (Goop them sealed shut with silicone.)

    Am I going to need to send my PCM out to Frost to have the EGR tuned out?

    **edit**
    Also... I got a new ls6 manifold that came with new fuel rails too... Is there a difference between old/new rails? If not, should I switch out the old rails to new just for shits and giggles since they are coming off anyway? (Under the guise that new crap is always better than old crap.)
    Last edited by TokerM; 10-21-2010 at 01:43 PM.

  9. #29
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    I'm happy for you and congrats on the new intake; however your making this a little more complicated than it actually is. I've switched over to this intake among other things and discarded my EGR. Do a simple search online for a block off plate......Then have frost (or whoever) delete your EGR with a tune. It will clean up your engine bay. I'll post you a picture of my set up......

  10. #30
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    No need to change anything via your new fuel rails. It's all the same. Just make sure you tune the EGR code out for emissions purposes. However you will need to make a slight adjusment with your lines on the valley cover, which is covered in the ls1howto install document. Good luck.

  11. #31
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Block off plates like these are available from Speed Inc. among other places.



    Electrical tape the EGR connector into the wiring harness near it.

    Send your PCM to Frost to eliminate the EGR trouble codes and EGR spark correction table. He can also delete your A.I.R., rear O2 sensors, Skip shift (if M6) etc.

  12. #32
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Block off plates like these are available from Speed Inc. among other places.

    Click for full size

    Electrical tape the EGR connector into the wiring harness near it.

    Send your PCM to Frost to eliminate the EGR trouble codes and EGR spark correction table. He can also delete your A.I.R., rear O2 sensors, Skip shift (if M6) etc.
    Yep, what he said above........Also you will find these block off plates are rather cheap. Easy switch/install/project.......

  13. #33
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Here's my current LS6 set up.


  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    Here's my current LS6 set up.

    Click for full size
    Nice... painted or powder coated covers?


    Now a couple questions on the tune... I looked at Frost's site and saw in the services:

    New spark/timing maps (makes HP!)
    WOT fueling adjustment (makes HP!)
    Improved knock handling
    Throttle cracker adjustment

    Can someone explain those a bit for me... I'm wondering if there's anything in there I can use, or do they require other mods.

    Also... A.I.R.: Is that my air pump/secondary air (not good yet with the initials,) and once I get rid of it, does that mean I can pull out the air pump? (In a way, this brings me back to my original post for the thread!! yea!)

  15. #35
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    The basic tune Frost is offering there is simply adjusting some stock numbers (tables) to squeeze more power out of your setup. For example the throttle in stock form is set up to not open ALL the way. His tune would put some pep in your step........and YES you COULD get rid of the air pump assembly with the tune.


    Frost, if you or someone else wishes to elaborate, please do, I'm no expert at tuning.

  16. #36
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Oh, and the covers on my vehicle are custom painted and fabricated. It's a HUGE upgrade over the terrible stock look. The covers and my other additions to the engine area really take the asthetics to another level. Covering up all that wiring is huge, AND as you see in my picture, you can't tell an EGR was ever a part of this engine imo.......

  17. #37
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    Damn... I didn't even notice that the wire hide was done... Very clean!

    And I think I understand Frost's services breakdown now... I'll have him do the "basic tune" and all of those are included in that. Even if I don't 100% understand what he's doing on the tune... Plug, Play, Smile and don't sweat it...

  18. #38
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  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Now officially on my big 'ole build list...

  20. #40
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TokerM View Post
    Nice... painted or powder coated covers?


    Now a couple questions on the tune... I looked at Frost's site and saw in the services:

    New spark/timing maps (makes HP!)
    WOT fueling adjustment (makes HP!)
    Improved knock handling
    Throttle cracker adjustment

    Can someone explain those a bit for me... I'm wondering if there's anything in there I can use, or do they require other mods.

    Also... A.I.R.: Is that my air pump/secondary air (not good yet with the initials,) and once I get rid of it, does that mean I can pull out the air pump? (In a way, this brings me back to my original post for the thread!! yea!)
    his tunes are customizable depending on your set up...for mine since i asked..my torque management was removed and line pressure maxed/or close to......he adjusts the timing and smooths things out. He does a lot of little things that are harder to explain without looking over it with hp tuners....while his tune is not a all out maxed attempt for power...it is a very VERY complete tune with a conservative bump in power...mind you he is tuning your pcm based on the info you give him about the car....he isnt present to hook up a wideband and log your car making changes...so for that reason it is a conservative tune that leaves some tables alone or with some padding incase there are hidden issues with your car

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